I have a 1953 Cornet that I can not get the rear axle hub and drums off. I tried a puller to where I could not get it any tighter and it would not pop off. I tried heat on the hub. I tried leaving the car on the ground and hit the end of the axle. I am out of ways I know. It has me stumped.

 

Heat, and chems. PB Blaster works best, or, mix your own, 50/50 mix of acetone, and trans fluid. Soak it good, then beat it with a heavy hammer around the outer diameter of the drum. I used a 3 pound single-jack. (a little sledge hammer) If chems alone won't do it, heat the the drum, then use the hammer. If you have a friend to help, have the entire rear off the ground, have friend rotate the OTHER side, while you are beating on the drum. It's an exercise, but, it's always worked for me.

 

There are lots of tricks to do this. Chrysler used the tapered axle up to 1965. Jeep a little longer. You're finding out why they changed. If you're trying to use a two or three jaw puller, you're fighting against yourself. There is a drum puller to use that bolts to three of the lug studs. If you have bolts instead of studs, the bolts hold it in place. Mine has a cross handle. You tighten it down by hand. When it's snug, you use a DBH (darn big hammer) and start whacking away. I'll smack the end of the handle, then the end of the shaft. Bam bam, ting ting. You will slowly build pressure. Leave the nut on the end of the axle by a few threads as it will come off and go flying. I looked around and managed to find one. Here;

https://www.oldmoparts.com/service-b...d-trucks-g-268

Be sure to wear eye protection as you're really wailing away on metal and it WILL spall at times.

Now, if the car runs and drives, here's another trick to pop the drum loose. Loosen the axle nut by a turn or two. NO MORE! Find a deserted road and swerve a few times at 10 or 15 mph. This will use the weight of the car to put lateral pressure on the fitting. It will often pop the drum loose. Don't drive very far like this. You'll ruin the axle if you do.

 

I have tried everything that was offered and I still can not get it off. I was thinking about cutting off the 4 bolts that hold the axle flange and backing plate on and removing the drum, hub, and axle shaft. Would that be doable?

 

Do you have any pics of what you are working with?

 

No. All you will do is destroy parts that are made out of unobtanium. 60 years ago, there were lots of these in the bone yards. Now, very few and those have sat out in the weather. Remove the axle nut and spray it good with something like Kroil. Let it sit for a couple of days. Maybe heat the spindle area up until it's cherry red. Then attach the puller and whack the snot out of it. Your work area will sound like a black smiths shop. Smack the handle to force it around. Bam! Then tap the end of the shaft on the puller. Ting! Keep working at it. Bam, bam, ting ting. Bam, bam, ting, ting. It is NOT easy. I've seen an air impact gun put tension on them and sometimes will break them loose. I've also seen the impact not touch it.

I went over to the U of Y (Youtube) and found two videos for removing tapered axle drums.

This one is a professional tool.


This one is using the tool I showed you. They both work the same, but the professional is a little easier to use as it's all together. The second one requires a little more fiddling.


When it finally pops loose, it's almost a feeling of climax. Remember to keep the nut on the end of the shaft so it doesn't fly. We're talking a lot of weight and kinetic energy. That moment of the drum popping loose is one reason guys like working on old cars. When you get it loose, you'll understand.