Hello everyone.
My first post is a sad one.
I bought my 1996 Dodge Dakota V8 last month with 113,000 miles. Not even 3 weeks since I had it and it needs serious repairs.
At first it was great. Nice body (excellent shape). I mean this guy took good care of it. So we thought.
I decided to change the oil, that was fine, he took care of that every 3,000 miles. But he forgot about everything else. He never changed the spark plugs/wires. Nor did he ever change the radiator fluid. So we decided to tackel the radiator fluid. Needless to say the fluid looked horrible. It was pretty brownish, like old coffee. And the coolant resavior was empty when we got it. After many flushes later, to get all of the gunk out. We decided it was ready to be refilled. After a successful flush/fill, there was white smoke out of the exhaust. And it wouldn't go away.

Bad head gasket right? Well my friend took everything apart to get to the heads. First off he found the 8th spark plug had oil/stuff on it. When he pulled it all apart he said the head gasket appeared to be fine, no leaks. He took the heads to a machine shop and found nothing wrong with the heads, he said there weren't any cracks. My friend is now wondering how this fluid got into the spark plug #8. The next thing he would think would be a cracked block. If that were the case the whole engine would basically need to be replaced. Am I correct thinking this?

I think the gasket may still have been the problem even though he couldn't see anything wrong. I think once everything is cleaned up we should put it all back together (new gaskets etc) and then try it. If no white smoke, then bingo, fixed. If white smoke we then could determine a cracked/bad block. Then the whole thing would have to be taken out anyway correct? I'd rather not have him go thru all of the work of taking the block out unless it is the final step to a new engine.

Any thoughts from you Dakota guys/gals?

Is a cracked block common on the 1996 Dodge Dakota?

Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

im no expert but here goes anyway...

you said the plug had oil in it? and its smoking? well it sounds like the rings are bad. its sucking up oil and burnig it, that probably why the plug is oily and its smoking.
again im no expert, just giving my ideas. im sure someone more experienced will have some real help.[sm=smiley2.gif]
good luck![sm=smiley1.gif]

 

the lower intake gasket is probably leaking causing oil to get into the cylinder-there is a TSB somewhere around here.

 

Here's the bulletin dodgemech was talking about:

NO: 09-05-00

SUBJECT: Spark Knock And Engine Oil Consumption Due To Intake Manifold Pan Gasket Oil Leak

DATE: Feb. 25, 2000

THIS BULLETIN SUPERSEDES TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN 09-06-99, DATED SEP. 10, 1999, WHICH SHOULD BE REMOVED FROM YOUR FILES. THIS IS A COMPLETE REVISION AND NO ASTERISKS HAVE BEEN USED TO HIGHLIGHT REVISIONS.

OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves the replacement of the engine intake manifold plenum pan gasket.

NOTE: THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO VEHICLE EQUIPPED WITH A 3.9L, 5.2L. OR 5.9L GASOLINE ENGINE.

SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
An engine intake manifold plenum pan gasket oil leak may occur on some V-6 and V-8 style engines. The oil leak is internal to the engine so no external oil leakage will be present. Two symptoms of this oil leak condition may be present. The vehicle operator may experience an engine spark knock during acceleration and/or an increase in the amount of engine oil consumed by the engine.

DIAGNOSIS:
Make sure Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) 18-48-98 has been performed.

NOTE: IT IS IMPORTANT THAT THE COIL AND SPARK PLUG WIRES ARE ROUTED EXACTLY AS SPECIFIED IN TSB 18-48-98 TO ACHIEVE THE MOST BENEFIT.

Inspect the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve. Shake the PCV valve to verify that the pintle inside of the PCV valve is free. Replace the PVC if the pintle is not free.

If the intake manifold plenum pan gasket is leaking, an additional vacuum source will be created inside of the engine at the location of the pan gasket leakage. Engine combustion blow-by gases, oil vapor, and air from the crankcase filter/breather may be drawn past the leaking pan gasket and into the intake manifold. In most cases when this condition occurs, an engine at idle will create the highest vacuum and lowest amount of engine blow-by.

Allow the engine to reach normal operating temperature.
Stop the engine.
Disconnect the breather hose from the air cleaner.
Attach a vacuum / pressure gauge to the end of the breather hose (Figure 1).
Disconnect the PCV valve hose from the intake manifold.
Seal off the intake manifold PCV valve hose port opening.
Seal off the open end of the PCV valve hose (Figure 2).
NOTE: DURING THIS DIAGNOSIS, IT WOULD BE NORMAL FOR THE ENGINE TO DEVELOP PRESSURE WITHIN THE ENGINE CRANKCASE. THIS IS DUE TO THE NORMAL PROCESS OF EXHAUST BLOW-BY GASES LEAKING PAST THE ENGINE PISTON RINGS AND ACCUMULATING IN THE ENGINE CRANKCASE. DO NOT ALLOW MORE THAN 3 PSI (20.7 kPa) OF PRESSURE TO BUILD WITHIN THE ENGINE WHEN PERFORMING THE FOLLOWING DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE.

Start the warmed engine and observe the vacuum gauge.
Allow the engine to idle for approximately 30 seconds. Do not allow more than 3 psi (20.7 kPa) of pressure to develop in the engine crankcase.
If the attached vacuum / pressure gauge does not indicate that a vacuum is present in the engine crankcase, then the intake manifold plenum pan gasket is good and no further internal engine vacuum leak diagnosis is required.
If an internal vacuum leak is present then perform the Repair Procedure.

PARTS REQUIRED:
For the 5.2L / 5.9L:

Qty Part No. Description
1 04897383AC Package, Intake Manifold Flange Gasket and Bolts
1 05017208AA Gasket, Intake Manifold Plenum Pan
15 06034583 Bolt, Intake Manifold Plenum Pan
1 53030541 Gasket, Throttle Body
2(AR) 04318001 Conditioner, Combustion Chamber

REPAIR PROCEDURE:
Refer to the appropriate year Service Manual, Section 9: ENGINE for removal and installation instructions.
NOTE: CLEAN ALL OIL RESIDUE FROM THE INTERIOR SURFACES OF THE PLENUM PAN AND THE INTAKE MANIFOLD PLENUM CHAMBER.

NOTE: THE PROPER BOLT TORQUE AND TIGHTENING SEQUENCE IS CRITICAL AND MUST BE FOLLOWED WHEN TIGHTENING BOTH THE PLENUM PAN BOLTS AND THE INTAKE MANIFOLD FLANGE BOLTS.

5.2L / 5.9L Bolt Tightening Sequence and Torque Procedure:

5.2L / 5.9L Plenum Pan Bolt Torque Procedure (Figure 5)

STEP WHICH BOLT TORQUE
1 All Bolts 5.4 Nm (48 in. lbs.)
2 All Bolts 9.5 Nm (84 in. lbs.)
3 Check All Bolts 9.5 Nm (84 in. lbs.)

5.2L / 5.9L Intake Manifold Flange Bolt Torque Procedure (Figure 6)

STEP WHICH BOLT TORQUE
1 1 through 4 1.4 Nm (12 in. lbs.)
2 1 through 4 2.7 Nm (24 in. lbs.)
3 1 through 4 4.1 Nm (36 in. lbs.)
4 1 through 4 5.4 Nm (48 in. lbs.)
5 1 through 4 6.7 Nm (60 in. lbs.)
6 1 through 4 8.1 Nm (72 in. lbs.)
7 5 through 12 8.1 Nm (72 in. lbs.)
8 Check All Bolts 8.1 Nm (72 in. lbs.)
9 All Bolts 16.3 Nm (12 ft. lbs.)
10 Check All Bolts 16.3 Nm (12 ft. lbs.)

With the engine reassembled, inspect the coil and spark plug wires for proper routing. Refer to TSB 18-48-98 for additional assistance.
Start the engine and allow it to warm to normal engine operating temperature.
Decarbon the combustion chamber using Mopar Combustion Chamber Conditioner (p/n 04318001) per the instructions.
NOTE: ALLOW THE COMBUSTION CHAMBER CLEANER TO SOAK INSIDE OF THE ENGINE FOR 2 TO 2.5 HOURS.

NOTE: A SECOND APPLICATION OF THE COMBUSTION CHAMBER CONDITIONER MAY BE REQUIRED IF THERE WAS A LARGE QUANTITY OF OIL LEAKAGE PAST THE INTAKE PLENUM PAN GASKET.

Verify proper engine oil level.

 

Oh no. [:@] So it probably is not a bad head gasket.
My friend took it all apart and took both heads out.
He said the head gasket appeared to be fine, no sign of leaking.
The heads are at the machine shop being checked for cracks/warp signs. So far they have found nothing. My guess once everything is put back together with new gaskets it will be back to normal. That is what I was thinking so far. He was just so curious of where it was leaking. I will have to print out this post to let him know. He'll probably not be to happy about pulling apart things he didn't need to. But, in his mind, white smoke and the coolant resavoir was empty when I bought it, equalled a bad head gasket.

Oh yea, he also said 1 of the hoses had been chewed thru by what looked like it was a mouse. So it was probably sitting for awhile as well.

I guess after all is said and done it'll be like new. I hope.

Thanks for the replies/help.

 

i was wondering if anyone can tell me how hard it is to put head gaskets on a 03 dakota 4.7 v8?

 

Very long process. Check the FAQ in the 2nd Generation Dakota sub-forum, there you can download the service manual with full details.