[font="Times New Roman"]Morning, All. This is my first time here, so hello.
Here's my problem. My truck (2000 Dakota [surprise!], 3.9L, auto, 4x4) would not start. I didn't get that CLIKCLIKCLIK sound like when the battery's dead; there was no sound at all, except MAYBE (and this could just be me) a slight hmmm when I turn the key. I live in SE CT and those of you in southern New England know it's been real yoomid lately. The truck has sat in the driveway for about a week w/o being driven (carpool), so I was wondering if perhaps the excessive yoomiditee had corrdoded something. [I'm at work, soI can't look at it right now]. Any ideas? Please? <:-\

 

Does this "humm" last for only a second or two (turn the key ON [but not start] does it still happen?)? If it comes from the back of the vehicle, it is your fuel pump, and that noise is perfectly normal. If it does not come from the back of the vehicle, try to narrow down where it comes from (turn off things like the heater/A/C blower, radio, etc. to help the search)
I am having the same problem (occasionally) with my Dakota (turn the key to START and it will "click" but not start). Some days is better than others, but if I turn the key enough (I've never had to do it more than 10 times though) it will start.
What I would look for is: loose, corroded, bad electrical connections on battery, and starter. Make sure, of course, that your battery is good (or, swap with a known good). If none of that works, I would say your looking at a new starter.
*edit*
Also, take the key and turn it ON-off-ON-off-ON (don't confuse ON and START) (that is 3 cycles, it maybe four or five cycles, I don't really know with the new trucks). The codes (if any) will appear on mile-meter (can't think of the name right now, lol). You can go here to see what they mean. If you get any, post the codes you get here.

 

I will have to check that when I get home. I WANT to say from the back, but... I'm NOT getting the CLIKCLIK. No fans came on. I was getting dash lights, etc. The battery is only a few months old, terminals checked and cleaned not more than two months ago. But like I said, it's been real humid, so who knows.
Thanks!

 

Wow. I'm sorry about misreading that.
OK, check the fuses (specfically, fuse 12, a 10A, which is in the Junction block) and fuse 16 (a heavy-duty style fuse in the power distribution center, which is a 50A).
If that checks out ok, swap the starter relay with another relay (fuel pump relay, for instance). If the motor will crank, (and you used to hear the fuel pump turn on, as stated in my last port), and now the fuel pump doesn't kick on (or, if you swapped with the fog lamps, and they don't turn on, or...), the relay was bad. Swap the bad relay out with a relay the truck will run without (such as the fog lamp or A/C) and run and get another realy.
If that doesn't work, post back.

 

Did you at least try to jump it? Probably wouldn't work, but it couldn't hurt to try.

 

I'm back! It happened again. AAARRGGH!! [:@] Same situation, sits in the driveway for about a week, then PFFFT. Slow drain--checked with multimeter, and this time it was down to about 7.5V. Last time it was 4+-/. My wife seems to think it's my radar detector doing it. My 12V outlet does stay on with the engine off, but I have a hard time buying her argument, because A) it's a radar detector. It's only drawing for a few teeny LEDs, and B)I've had a radar detector in that truck ever since I got it in 2002 (or 1?). Why would it just now become a monster battery hog? Oink.

[IMG]local://upfiles/40758/1BA1775B9ADF44F6B7C6B2BF89200057.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/40758/D215F7F25460438EBBB069DAF8A000E9.jpg[/IMG]

 

As per the shop manual:

STANDARD PROCEDURE - IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST

The term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from five to thirty-five milliamperes (0.005 to 0.035 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. Up to thirty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control
Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment.

A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty days, may discharge the battery to an inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty days or more (stored), remove the IOD fuse from the Power Distribution Center (PDC). This will reduce battery discharging.
Excessive IOD can be caused by:
â€* Electrical items left on.
â€* Faulty or improperly adjusted switches.
â€* Faulty or shorted electronic modules and components.
â€* An internally shorted generator.
â€* Intermittent shorts in the wiring.

If the IOD is over thirty-five milliamperes, the problem must be found and corrected before replacing a battery. In most cases, the battery can be charged and returned to service after the excessive IOD condition has been corrected.
(1) Verify that all electrical accessories are off. Turn off all lamps, remove the ignition key, and close
all doors. If the vehicle is equipped with an illuminated entry system or an electronically tuned radio, allow the electronic timer function of these systems to automatically shut off (time out). This may take up to three minutes. See the Electronic Module Ignition-Off Draw Table for more information. (Picture provided below)
(2) Determine that the underhood lamp is operating properly, then disconnect the lamp wire harness connector or remove the lamp bulb.
(3) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(4) Set an electronic digital multi-meter to its highest amperage scale. Connect the multi-meter between the disconnected battery negative cable terminal clamp and the battery negative terminal post. Make sure that the doors remain closed so that the illuminated entry system is not activated. The multimeter amperage reading may remain high for up to three minutes, or may not give any reading at all while set in the highest amperage scale, depending upon the electrical equipment in the vehicle. The multi-meter leads must be securely clamped to the battery negative cable terminal clamp and the battery negative terminal post. If continuity between the battery negative terminal post and the negative cable terminal clamp is lost during any part of the IOD test, the electronic timer function will be activated and all of the tests will have to be repeated.
(5) After about three minutes, the high-amperage IOD reading on the multi-meter should become very low or nonexistent, depending upon the electrical equipment in the vehicle. If the amperage reading remains high, remove and replace each fuse or circuit breaker in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) and then in the Junction Block (JB), one at a time until the amperage reading becomes very low, or nonexistent. Refer to the appropriate wiring information in this service manual for complete PDC and JB fuse, circuit breaker, and circuit identification. This will isolate each circuit and identify the circuit that is the source of the high-amperage IOD. If the amperage reading remains high after removing and replacing each fuse and circuit breaker, disconnect the wire harness from the generator. If the amperage reading now becomes very low or nonexistent, refer to Charging System for the proper charging system diagnosis and testing procedures. After the high-amperage IOD has been corrected, switch the multi-meter to progressively lower amperage scales and, if necessary, repeat the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-re-place process to identify and correct all sources of excessive IOD. It is now safe to select the lowest milliampere scale of the multi-meter to check the lowamperage IOD.
CAUTION: Do not open any doors, or turn on any electrical accessories with the lowest milliampere scale selected, or the multi-meter may be damaged.
(6) Observe the multi-meter reading. The low-amperage IOD should not exceed thirty-five milliamperes (0.035 ampere). If the current draw exceeds thirty-five milliamperes, isolate each circuit using the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process in Step 5. The multi-meter reading will drop to within the acceptable limit when the source of the excessive current draw is disconnected. Repair this circuit as required; whether a wiring short, incorrect switch adjustment, or a component failure is at fault.

Let us know what you find!

[IMG]local://upfiles/948/02A61B23EF2141E693077487B2D1F3B0.gif[/IMG]