Alright, so I have a 1987 Dodge Daytona shelby z 2.2l turbo, and I've been having stalling problems. The first instance of this happening was when I drove to arizona march of 2007.

The car worked fine through all of the drive untill the last leg of the trip, where it started up. The stalling happens like this.

1. First part is the car will shut down, but all the lights and cd player and everything work, and the rpms just shoot down straight to zero, and about half a second later it will start up again, without turning the key, or pressing the gas, or popping the clutch, it just starts right back up when rolling in gear.
2. Step number one will start acting more frequently about 2 minutes after the first cut off, sometimes it gets to the point where the car has to be cranked again, and that usually works.
3. After about 10 minute of driving, the car will shut down, and will not start again untill I leave it for a few hours.

A couple weird points to it, when the car shuts down, it doesnt stumble before, or get sluggish or slow, just immediatly dies. When I pop the clutch, the engine runs, but with no responds from the throttle.

So in Arizona, I replaced the battery, distributor cap, plugs and wires and new wheel's (pretty sure that has no application to this problem). This seemed to have fixed the problem, untill about 2 weeks ago, when my car started doing the same thing again.

I've done the basics, new fuel filter, new plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor. I checked all the connections on the Alternator check fuel line for cracks, adjusted idle, nothing seems to affect in the least. There are two more things I'm going to try today, which is replacing the ignition coil, and trying to find the Hall Effect Sensor (which is next to impossible, anyone have any place where I can get this?). Just need some input from you Daytona fanatics! I have basic to moderate car knowledge, but this problem makes my brain hurt, any help would make me love you forever.

 

Update:

I reset the PMU (disconnecting negative battery cable and holding key in start for 15 seconds) and that seemed to have fixed it. I have this road by my house where i tested my car and it usually died in exactly the same spot, was all smooth road so no vibrations, but it didn't this time, made it all the way up the road and back, do you think this might have fixed it?

 

The Hall effect pickupcan be found atwww.turbosunleashed.com it is$81.00.
I have an 88 lancer shelbythat hadthe same problem i replaced every sensorone at a time and the hall effect was the problem.
It would start fine then about ten seconds later it would idle rough and miss, then when driving at any speedthe tach would dump to 0rpm and the car "shut off" andwould restart.(i kicked the clutch)
As well... There is a plate under the hall effect with stupid plastic rivets that can wear loose and cause the same problem. Replace it too.
while your doing that you should replace all your vac lines, they sell silliconevac kits with all different sizes perfect for these engines but use fuel line off the fuel press regulator.Old lines tend to crack and thats no good at all

 

I'm currently having a problem with my stock'89 es 2.5 turbo where it is stalling out and not wanting to restart, sometimes waiting a half an hour before it starts up again. Right now the only code im getting is a 47, something about voltage being too high or too low. So far i've replaced the alternator, battery, plugs,cap,rotor,distributor pickup,computer and fuel filter, with no improvement. I see dantheman3212 said he disconnected the negative battery cable and held the key in start for 15 seconds, i'm not familiar with that method as i usually completely disconnect both terminals and when i hook everything back up, i get the code 12 which says the battery was disconnected. so have i been doing it wrong all this time lol? if so, once i disconnect the negative cable, do i try to crank it for 15 sec or just put it into the 'on' position?I'm pretty much at a loss as to what this code 47 could be. any ideas guys? thanks!

 

Yes I know the problem, replace your SMEC (computer behind the battery) and that will fix your problem.

 

Well first off you just pointed to two major things that cause the same issue..


Your driving along and then you notice the teach drops to zero..then shortly after the engine loses power and you can either restart for a few moments or have to wait several minutes to restart it.

1. how warm is it out side when this happens?
2. How much gas in in the tank?

Now if your gass tank is low 1/8 to 1/4 then your fuel pump is the problem.
Your gas acts as a coolant for the fuel pump to keep the temp down...if the pump is weak and your getting it hot...it dies until you cool off..

Now if the HEP is the problem, this normally happens on a hot day...

your hep can be found by removing the Distibitor cap and the rotor button, then you will see the hep with it's two wires running into the base of the Distrib..so pull it out and replace it...

The HEP is cheaper to replace first..try it..if it works then you fix it.. if not then your fuel pump is the problem..

Worse case..run codes on your car's computer..no codes great...but replacing your power module under the hood would be the last thing
and a long shot to your problem..

Fuel pump and Hep are my best guess.

 

i had an extra computer, so i installed it and am having the same problem. i guess it might be possible to have 2 bad computers, but most likely not. the hep i replaced already. gas tank levels have varied from over a half to under 1/4. what is a fair price labor wise to replace the in tank fuel pump? thanks!

 

can you elaborate on the fuel pump problem? And what is HEP?

I just had a similar post on here and my car is doing the exact same thing!!!

I put a new coil, opti spark, and cleaned the iac, and it worked great! But now i see the corrolation. I had a full tank, and it was running great all weekend, I'm down to a quarter tank and it died today.

Fuel pump?

 

I had a problem with my '86 Daytona one day when I went to wash the engine before doing some work on it. It started fine and I started driving down the road, but it just died. I coasted into a parking lot and kept trying to start it. It started briefly a few times but would die again. I came to find out that the wiring that rested across the back of the valve cover had worn through and was grounding the ignition system. I wrapped it with friction tape and have had no problems since. It must have worn through and been grounding against the sharp edge of the valve cover or the sharp edges of the valve cover bolts.

One of the symptoms that I noticed when it would die is that the tach would immediately go to zero instead of drifting down as the engine speed decreased. That told me that it was an electrical problem and not a fuel system problem. If it had been a fuel system problem causing the engine to stall, the tach would have indicated the engine speed dropping as it decreased, but it would not be immediate. It would take a few seconds. With an electrical problem, the tack went to zero immediately.

 

Bringing up 8 to 12 year old threads? Why??