new motor ideas for my 87 daytona 5 speed
i been looking to get a new motor for mine cause everytime i turn around im blowing the bottom end out of it and kinda getting sick of rebuilding the motor every 3 weeks. them little 2.2 litre's cant handle the 15psi boost turbo's that are put into them. i wanna keep the turbo and was kinda looking around and stumbled across the honda K24 turbo motor. now my question is will it fit and if so how much modding would i have to do for it to fit in there ?
little 2.2L motors cant handle it? There is guys making 400hp on stock bottom ends reliably. Are you putting oil in it? You think a stock open deck honda motor is going to handle 15psi any better? How about worse. You are crazy if you think the internals on a honda are going to be better than the stock internals of a turbo car, you are ABSOLUTLY crazy. And for the fact alone you are thinking of putting a honda motor in a TD shows how much you know about cars. [sm=chairshot.gif]You are seriously doing somthing wrong if you are going through bottom ends like that. Learn what you are doing, and what you are talking about and you will have better luck. And BTW the turbos on these cars are capable of more than 15 psi. There are LOTS of people doing it on STOCK 100,000+ bottom ends.
laugh all you want but when you start pushing your car the way i push my car then you can start talking. and as for not knowing anything i would really check your facts before Assuming. cause im a certified mechanic and have had nothign but good comments about my work. also i wasnt talking about a normal honda k24 motor i was talking about a turbo honda k24 motor that would be rebuilt to handle the abuse i put my car threw. if i could find my dyno numbers for my car id show you the type of power it has and what kind of punishment it goes threw. so next time maybe before u jump to conclusions and act all high and mighty maybe you get to know the facts.
I hate to say it but he is right about the 2.2. I have been messing with them for 6 years now. Have you tried using a turbo bottom end? There is a big difference in them. Also what keeps going out on you? Are you cracking pistion because of lack of fuel ? Or is just throwing rods every 3 weeks? Let us know.
Oh, the turbo k24. Im sorry. I forgot about that motor. [sm=laughat.gif]The 2.2l Turbo dodge motors were built to handle it FROM THE FACTORY. So I think you, sir are the one who needs to get his fact strait. And trust me, I can push my car all I want as well. Stock crank, stock (shot peened) rods. It will make all the power I ever need. In fact, here is my build list.
-manual ball spring type boost controller (for the time being, Greddy Profec B shortly)
- 8mm Aroura Spark plug wires
-2.5" mandrel bent exhaust
-Magnaflow muffler and high flow cat
-S70 turbo with wheel clip and quick spool option
-Turbo XS RFL BOV
-Accufab AFPR
-AutoMeter boost gauge
-PolyBushings.com poly motor mounts
-Solid bobble strut
*Thought I was done for a while then the trans. died...
-FWD performance ceramic 4-puck clutch with HD pp
-rebuilt A568 trans. from FWD Performance
-B&M short throw shifter
2nd Time I thought I was done....
-Rebuilt shortblock w/ Venolia forged pistons, polished crank, shot peened rods with re-drilled tops, sealed power rings, clevite main and rod bearings, ARP hardware, melling high volume oil pump, Ishihara-jonhson windage tray and oil pan baffle, Balance shafts removed.
-LoneWolf performance head with stage one port/polish, radius cut and back-cut valve grind and upgraded FWD performance lifters and cometic mls headgasket.
-LoneWolf performance stage one cams
-LoneWolf performance ported intake manifold
-LoneWolf Performance ported and coated exhaust manifold drilled and tapped for EGT probe.
-Spearco. 1010 CFM front mount intercooler with mandrel bent 2.5" pipeing
-Ported/polished turbine housing
-ported/polished turndown elbow
-3" downpipe dump with electronic cutout valve
-Fidanza light weight flywheel
-FWD Performance 3 bar computer calibraton
-+40% Fuel injectors
-Zeitronix wideband o2 meter with wideband o2, egt, boost, rpm, and tps monitoring and datalogging.
Thats just the stuff in the car as we speak.
This is waiting to go in the car.

But, the motor is just a 2.2l dodge motor. It will never handle that thing. Nevermind the fact the turbo came off a car running high 11s, and made just over 400whp at 23ish psi. And he is on the same short block build as I am. Only problem his car has had. He just blew out cometic head gasket #0001. He was the one responsable for getting a decent headgasket made for us. Dont know why, when it makes more sense to swap in a honda motor! [sm=lame.gif]If you a certified mechanic, wouldnt you already know whats needed to do this ridiculus swap? Also, can you explain to me what you would do to this k24 to make it a turbo motor? Or are you getting the factory turboed on? <------VERY IMPORTANT QUESTION HERE DONOT IGNORE, PLEASE ANSWER!!!!!!
If you have any questions about my setup. Please vistit the cardomain link in my sig. You will find pics of all my mods, links to build videos. And some low boost passes at the track. Even a little (computer animated) street racing between my weak motored 2.2l and a supercharged 5.0. Check it out. Its no honda, but it does ok.
-manual ball spring type boost controller (for the time being, Greddy Profec B shortly)
- 8mm Aroura Spark plug wires
-2.5" mandrel bent exhaust
-Magnaflow muffler and high flow cat
-S70 turbo with wheel clip and quick spool option
-Turbo XS RFL BOV
-Accufab AFPR
-AutoMeter boost gauge
-PolyBushings.com poly motor mounts
-Solid bobble strut
*Thought I was done for a while then the trans. died...
-FWD performance ceramic 4-puck clutch with HD pp
-rebuilt A568 trans. from FWD Performance
-B&M short throw shifter
2nd Time I thought I was done....
-Rebuilt shortblock w/ Venolia forged pistons, polished crank, shot peened rods with re-drilled tops, sealed power rings, clevite main and rod bearings, ARP hardware, melling high volume oil pump, Ishihara-jonhson windage tray and oil pan baffle, Balance shafts removed.
-LoneWolf performance head with stage one port/polish, radius cut and back-cut valve grind and upgraded FWD performance lifters and cometic mls headgasket.
-LoneWolf performance stage one cams
-LoneWolf performance ported intake manifold
-LoneWolf Performance ported and coated exhaust manifold drilled and tapped for EGT probe.
-Spearco. 1010 CFM front mount intercooler with mandrel bent 2.5" pipeing
-Ported/polished turbine housing
-ported/polished turndown elbow
-3" downpipe dump with electronic cutout valve
-Fidanza light weight flywheel
-FWD Performance 3 bar computer calibraton
-+40% Fuel injectors
-Zeitronix wideband o2 meter with wideband o2, egt, boost, rpm, and tps monitoring and datalogging.
Thats just the stuff in the car as we speak.
This is waiting to go in the car.

But, the motor is just a 2.2l dodge motor. It will never handle that thing. Nevermind the fact the turbo came off a car running high 11s, and made just over 400whp at 23ish psi. And he is on the same short block build as I am. Only problem his car has had. He just blew out cometic head gasket #0001. He was the one responsable for getting a decent headgasket made for us. Dont know why, when it makes more sense to swap in a honda motor! [sm=lame.gif]If you a certified mechanic, wouldnt you already know whats needed to do this ridiculus swap? Also, can you explain to me what you would do to this k24 to make it a turbo motor? Or are you getting the factory turboed on? <------VERY IMPORTANT QUESTION HERE DONOT IGNORE, PLEASE ANSWER!!!!!!
If you have any questions about my setup. Please vistit the cardomain link in my sig. You will find pics of all my mods, links to build videos. And some low boost passes at the track. Even a little (computer animated) street racing between my weak motored 2.2l and a supercharged 5.0. Check it out. Its no honda, but it does ok.
ORIGINAL: speedyshelby
I hate to say it but he is right about the 2.2. I have been messing with them for 6 years now. Have you tried using a turbo bottom end? There is a big difference in them. Also what keeps going out on you? Are you cracking pistion because of lack of fuel ? Or is just throwing rods every 3 weeks? Let us know.
I hate to say it but he is right about the 2.2. I have been messing with them for 6 years now. Have you tried using a turbo bottom end? There is a big difference in them. Also what keeps going out on you? Are you cracking pistion because of lack of fuel ? Or is just throwing rods every 3 weeks? Let us know.
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ORIGINAL: sceptre
i would really check your facts before Assuming. cause im a certified mechanic and have had nothign but good comments about my work.
i would really check your facts before Assuming. cause im a certified mechanic and have had nothign but good comments about my work.
And I am not trying to act all high and mighty, I am trying to help you from making a huge mistake. I love Turbo Dodges, and hate to see high school kids killing them one by one. I was trying to help.
Hey, I have to chime in here and hopefully add some insight. Bansheenut is correct (although a little rough around the edges
. If youre using a turbo bottom end, it should handle 15PSI. If its a T2 bottom end, it will handle 400 HP PLUS STOCK(as I can attest to).The T1 bottom end, with light weight rods, is quite a bit weaker, and you may be walking the line, but still should hold 15PSI without CONTINUALLY BREAKING. I have blown up T1 bottom ends at 15 PSI, but after continual abuse over a long period of time. If you are constantly breaking lower ends, there are multiple possibilities. One is that the tune is off and you dont have enough fuel or too much timing and are running into detonation. The other likely hood is that youre assembling the engine incorrectly and missinga critical step somewhere.
I would NOT use a honda engine. The turbo Chrysler engine is more than strong enough. I would get a true T2 bottom end (with factory HDforged rods), make sure youre assembling correctly, and monitor your tune with a wideband O2. Set your initial timing for 12* BTDC.
If you need turbo chryser specific info, you can go to www.thedodgegarage.com or www.turbo-mopar.com
Hope this helps!
. If youre using a turbo bottom end, it should handle 15PSI. If its a T2 bottom end, it will handle 400 HP PLUS STOCK(as I can attest to).The T1 bottom end, with light weight rods, is quite a bit weaker, and you may be walking the line, but still should hold 15PSI without CONTINUALLY BREAKING. I have blown up T1 bottom ends at 15 PSI, but after continual abuse over a long period of time. If you are constantly breaking lower ends, there are multiple possibilities. One is that the tune is off and you dont have enough fuel or too much timing and are running into detonation. The other likely hood is that youre assembling the engine incorrectly and missinga critical step somewhere. I would NOT use a honda engine. The turbo Chrysler engine is more than strong enough. I would get a true T2 bottom end (with factory HDforged rods), make sure youre assembling correctly, and monitor your tune with a wideband O2. Set your initial timing for 12* BTDC.
If you need turbo chryser specific info, you can go to www.thedodgegarage.com or www.turbo-mopar.com
Hope this helps!
Hate to be a little rough around the edges, but I can just see this poor TD meeting its end at the hand of some kid the needs to put his fast and furious dvd away. Like fastcsx said, www.thedodgarage.com is concidered to be the TD bible. And www.turbododge.com and www.turbo-mopar.com are both great sites for info on these cars.


