Hey Everyone, I'm at my wits end here and could really use some help...I have an 87 Daytona that I've been tearing my hair out trying to find out whats wrong with it, in a nutshell I can crank it over fine, it fires and starts and then immediately stalls.

Here's the story as best I can remember...

The car had been sitting for a extremely long time (about 15yrs). When I started on it I had to completely replace the fuel sytesm, the pump, filter, the sender and lines, the regulator, and injector (ITS ALL NEW!). Gave it a tune up (cap/wires/rotor/plugs) and BAM! The car started up just fine and would idle in my garage when it was up on jackstands, I could watch it run for like 30 to 45 minutes, the voltage, oil pressure and coolant sensort all worked, as well as the fan relay,and it sounded great

After I knew the motor was good, I took care of some of the other work that needed to get done so I could get it on the road and make it safe ( brakes, etc )...to make a long story short, I then drove it around my sub for about 5-10 minutes, parked it in my driveway and then when I went to take it out again I got about a mile down the road and it putterred out and died. It would then crank, fire, start and stall out. I pushed it about a half mile back home, tried to start it on the side of the road and it fired and ran, I drove it around for about 3-5 more minutes when it stalled again on me. I then restarted it, drove it back home and parked it in my garage and since then it will only crank over, fire, and then immediately stall out.

I've been doing some research, and I've pulled the codes from the PC but when I check them now all I get is a 12, and 13. to get to the point this is what I've replaced / changed and still am getting the same scenario

- MAP sensor, AIC Motor, Power Module, Logic Module, Fuel Pump and Regulator ( Again...just to rule out those fuel components failing ), and the Hall Effect Pickup on the Distributor

I don't know where to look now, or what to do, if I pull the codes now all I get is a 12 and 13 (on the old logic module which from what I researched 12 really isn't anything and the 13 is probably b/c I had the intake off on the throttle body ), the new one spits out no codes, but both logic modules give me the same stalling results ) which is why I think its something mechanical thats wrong with it...I've even hot wired the pump on its own circiut and the engine still stalls out even with the pump running continiously ( and I only need 14-16psi for this fuel system I believe - its not very high ), I can't see how timing would be a problem because it starts up just fine and sounds like its hitting and firing right when I spray it with starting fluid, it just wont stay running...

The only things I can possibly think of component wise that could be causing this now are..

1. Ignition Switch ( but I highly doubt it ) because the car cranks, fuel pump whirrs, and it starts.
2. Ignition Coil ( but I get spark on startup so I don't think its this )
3. Possibly the exhaust choking off the motor? I've never seen this happen before but its been sitting for a while.

If anyone can help me out it would be appreciated...I'm so lost on this it sucks! It was a ton of fun to drive that car around and now I just cant get it to run.

Thanks in Advance!

 

does it have voltage at the coil when it dies? do you have a wiring diagram? have you thrown a distributor pickup at it?

you didn't state if it's a turbo or nonturbo but I'm assuming you just have a TBI

 

Its a non turbo, and i did replace the pickup sensor under the distributor rotor as well. I did have a
Breakthrough last night though. I had one of my friends start it so i could feel the exhaust (to gauge if it was plugged) and it started, and ran (idled aroud 2200) for a while, then dropped the idle and putterred out. I realized that the night before i had unplugged the MAP sensor connector, when i plugged it back in it went right back to stalling immediately after startup. I would like to thinl that this is where my ghost is hiding...how does that MAP sensor actually work? How can i test/check it? Would it be a vacuum problem or voltage maybe?

 

do a google search (how does a MAP sensor work) you'll probably find a much better explanation and even pictures than I could explain...besides why re-write what's already been written.

I use a scanner to see what the SBEC is getting from MAP. at idle it should be showing 17-20 "Hg.

 

Im gonna grab a tee and a vacuum gauge and see what the system is pulling at the MAP sensor. I know that the 3 wires going to it are a input voltage, ground and signal voltage. And as the vacuum level changes the resistance across that sensor changes varying the output signal. What is the input voltge supposed to be, and what should the signal voltage be at normal idle?

 

Allright, just a quick update...it was the new MAP sensor that had to have been bad. I checked the vacuum on the system and at idle I was getting 17in Hg of Vacuum, which is about right. WHen I started the car with the sensor unplugged it cranked, ran, and idled...

I then grabbed the old sensor, and hooked it up...I cranked the engine, it fired, and idled! WTF!

I'm am totally confused now...I definately had a bad "new" map sensor that had me running in circles. But I thought that the origional sensor ( which is now hooked up! ) was the reason the car died on me in the first place. UGH!!!!!

I did check the codes once again b4 stopping for the night, this time I got 12,13,14,16,41, and 52....12 is no big deal, 13 and 14 are faults in the MAP pneumatic and elec system (which could have been generated by me messing around with the vacuum lines and sensor connection). Code 16 is a loss of Battery Voltage, and 41 is a charging system fault. 52 says O2 reading rich. The accelleration is responsive but I can hear it putter and backfire when the RPM's come back down (which could be because of the rich mixture possibly caused by the map sensor voltage).

I've disconnected the battery from the vehicle, and I will start it up again tomorrow after the computer has reset and see what codes I get. As far as the charging system goes I know the alternator is good b/c I had it tested before I first got the darn thing running, could my battery just be bad and the car was shedding its electrical load like to the PC ( which would effect the sensor inputs/outputs ) and such which would cause every thing to die out the first time? What else could fail on the charging system?

P.S. This is all with the factory logic module, I haven't even seen what happens when I put my replacement module back in. For some reason that one doesn't spit out any codes.

More details to follow, thanks for all the help too!

 

Have you tryed replacing the fuel filter?