The turbo cars are probably fairly common, but I live in Northern Maine. That means that basically, if the junkyard doesn't have it for me to pull out, I can get one through them, but for a hefty $. Is there a way I can test it for certain, to see if the computer is doing any of it?

Just found this on Ebaymotors, would it work??
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...sPageName=WDVW

 

depending if ypu have a newer after market radio installed in it you might be using light on display wire as the ground . the actual ground is the one that looks like a flat piece of metal. after you do that replace the fuse for the lights and that fix it . If not it might be in your steering wires.

 

Don't flame me for asking something this stupid, but I haven't seen it posted anywhere, but are the bulbs good? On dual filament bulbs you can still get a blinker/turn signal and have the brake light/tail light out. Just wondering...

 

Ok, this may sound nuts, but since you have no rear lights, have you checked the bulbs and sockets? The wiring harness in the rear tail/brake lights tend to melt down, creating some problems. I kept blowing out bulbs. Water also tends to get in there. I have had to replace the wiring harness and I have no problems yet(knock wood). These cars are also quirky with anything electrical especially when wet out. You may have to simply disconnect the battery to reset the car. Also, you may want to attempt running an onboard diagnostic of your car. You can do this by turning the key back and forth in the ignition to the accessory position three times(back towards you on the third turn), and count how many times the check engine light blinks. It will initially run a code 55 which means its starting the check and anything after that means there's a problem. Once the diagnostic is done it will run another code 55. My father in law was an ex-Dodge mechanic and he told me about this and saved me alot of headaches. If you don't have the codes, let me know.

Cheryl
1990 Dodge Daytona Spring Special