I'm new to the forums as you can tell. I can get a Daytona from my cousin for free, although I'm not sure what year it is. I know that it has the sealed beam headlights, not the pop-ups. But anyway, I'm thinking about converting it to RWD and was looking for some opinions on which rear end to use. I was thinking about using a Dana 44, but I don't know if that will be too much for what I'm doing. I'm not going to be putting a V8 in it, I just want it RWD. I was thinking about using a 420A from a '95-'99 eclipse mated to a 5-speed.
The only reason I'm thinking about that particular engine is because I used to own a '95 Eagle Talon ESi and I pretty much rebuilt the engine from the ground up. I know the 420A like the back of my hand. I also know what kind of fuel mileage I can expect with that engine (I'm on a budget from month to month). I have nothing but time on my hands anymore so I can take my time and do it right the first time.
And before I get any flames like I've seen on many, many other boards that I read, yes, I have used the search function. All I can find are posts about RWD kits, not what rear end they used.

 

Well, if it has the four sealed beam headlights, it's an 84-86. As for the rear end, look around the forums here for exline. He should point you in the right direction for the rear axle.

 

the 8 3/4 is the rear you need. It will handle pleanty of power mine is about 450 horsepower and it works just fine ,even with the way i drive a four speed! and its a lot lighter than a dana . The one from an E body will be the right width for the factory daytona wheels, or one from an A body if your going to use RWD wheels on it .The daytona uses the same pattern as the small bolt darts did but the ebody uses the large pattern and will need redrilled ,also the hub on either where it fits into the center of the wheel will need turned down on a lathe to fit into the daytona wheel.
most ladder bars are too long to fit with out cutting into the back seat so I make a set of 26" long ones for the conversion so I could keep the back seat.you can just reuse the original springs and shocks.
I can also make you the suspension crossmember if you run into problems getting the motor to clear the original one.
you are going to have to cut your trunk out to get the rear to fit without bouncing into the floor, so cut out the area above the rear end and the spare tire well and put a challenger gas tank under the trunk where the spare tire well used to be , the gas filler hole is on the right side for the daytona ,and just make a new filler tube.

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Well, I was planning on doing a 4-link suspension for the rear anyway with possibly a double wishbone front suspension; coilovers all the way around. Also, I was looking through Summit's catalog and can only find a 4.10 gear for the 8.75 Chrysler. I was hoping more for a 3.73... so my question is would a 10 bolt Chevy work just as well? The main reason I'm asking is because they are easier to find in my neck of the woods. I was planning on taking the spare tire well out anyway. I'll probably have to find a different fuel tank too. Challengers are hard to find around here.

I've also decided that instead of going N/A I'm going to build up the bottom end, have a street/strip head porting job, and a 5 angle valve job done, 8.8:1 compression ratio and maybe a 20G turbo.... not sure on the turbo size yet though. Yeah, I know. Lots of money is going to be tied up in this thing, but isn't that always the case with project cars?

As far as brakes go, I was looking to maybe find some 13" rotors for the front with Wilwood 6-piston calipers. I'd like to have disc brakes on the back too. I'll probably be using EBC Red Stuff pads for the brakes.

Yeah, I know. I'm making this sound like an autocross car, but it is actually going to be my daily driver. I just want to be able to handle anything that's thrown at me in a road situation. Even if it is going to be a bit of an overkill.

 

there are a lot of places to get other gears for an 8 3/4 i have 2.76 gears in mine . got them from randys ring and pinion summit is not the best place to find mopar parts.if you use another rear like the 10 bolt chevy you will probably need to cut it to fit, and it will need to come out of a wide car to be big enough to cut down.also its not as strong as an 8 3/4 . but will handle a fair amount of power.
the front will be a lot of work also , due to the motor being set over the centerline of the front wheels.no aftermarket suspension will be an easy fit but can be made to work if your ready to put in some work into it. and coil overs are not always the best thing to use they are expensive and need to be the right spring for your car and that may recuire weighing the front and rear of the car to get the right ones. I have found the original ones to work fine , the front could be a little stifer but the rear is good.
if your going to go the easy rear way a 9 " ford should be easy to find and gears are even easier and there strong like an 8 3/4. also you dont have to tear it all down to change gears just change the pumpkin, only takes about an hour just like the mopar 8 3/4.
If you really want to make it handle good and have room for the engine stretch the front end about 4" behind the front wheel weel opening.its a lot of work but will give you better weight distrubution.

 

The work is no problem. I have nothing but time on my hands like I said in my first post. Why would I need to stretch the front? From what I can tell they are about the same dimensions as the Toyota AE86 chassis. I may just have to set the engine back an inch or so. Yeah, I know, that means that I'll have to cut and reform the firewall.

You're right about something, though. Coilovers aren't always the best application for the job. I started rethinking it and I may just go ahead and while changing the front suspension over to the double wishbone I will probably use all the parts for that from an Eclipse/Talon....I might even do the spring and shock mounts on the back to match. I will probably have to just make the mounts for the rear myself though. Not many custom shops around here. That's why I am getting as much information from here as I can.

I'm also going to be making (reforming if I can stretch the steel far enough) a custom hood. I'm good enough with fiberglass that I will be making my own body kit, headlight assemblies (projection beam), and taillight assemblies. After I get all the parts made and fitted I'll get some pictures up, although I might get flamed and called a "ricer" for the body kit. I know there's not much that will improve the already awesome looks of the Daytona, but I just feel like it would be different than any other Daytona out there. And besides, I'll love the looks on the "import tuner" *cough*ricer*cough* kids around here when I tell them that the car is older than they are.

 

probably a better front suspension would be a mustang 2 front end like they use on street rods , or better yet a c4 corvette front end .I have installed custom C4 suspensions several times on cars. I made a custom chassis jig so that i can install C4 corvette suspension on anything. you can get all the front end parts used for the frontend about $500. and while your at it go for a dana 44 independant rear suspension.
The real problem with the daytona is that the engine is set so far out over the front axle that it makes the car front heavy and by stretching the front a few inches and moving the front axle forward you help that problem a lot. moving the motor back will help too but you get into interior room by moving to motor back ,cutting the dash cutting out the heater box and having to move all the brake and gas petals back along with the fire wall then your too close to your seat and have to move it back then theres no room behind the front seat for anyone to set in the back.
My motor is about 1/2 inch from the firewall and if i went back more it would be a major project .

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