ESP BAS light on 2010 1500
Thread Starter
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Registered User
Joined: Mar 2019
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ESP BAS light on 2010 1500
I swapped out the front calipers on my Dodge yesterday and bled the brakes. Now the brake light that is usually on when your e-brake is engaged is on, ESP BAS in the center and the light showing the traction control is off is lit. Did I mess up bleeding my brakes and just need to redo it? I have plenty of petal and its stopping great. Better than it has in a while, probably due to all new components on the front. Also there is a bit too much fluid in the reservoir at the moment, as every guide I saw said to fill it up before bleeding so that I don't run it dry.
Thanks!!!
Thanks!!!
Captain
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 597
Likes: 33
Could be a few things.
Did you disturb the wheel speed sensors ? Are they properly connected?
Could be air still in front brake system?
There is a valve and switch that senses hydraulic pressure differential between front and back brakes. When you bled front brakes this valve and switch sensed different pressures and activated your light and faults. Usually once bleeding is finished pressure equalizes and the valve and switch return to normal and the fault lights go off. Sometimes driving a very short distance to get the electronics working will clear the faults.
Try stomping on the brake pedal quickly and firmly. This may persuade the valve and switch to return to a normal position if its a tad stuck.
If not try bleeding the brakes again and ensure you have no leaks. If you have any small leak the light will never go off
Did you disturb the wheel speed sensors ? Are they properly connected?
Could be air still in front brake system?
There is a valve and switch that senses hydraulic pressure differential between front and back brakes. When you bled front brakes this valve and switch sensed different pressures and activated your light and faults. Usually once bleeding is finished pressure equalizes and the valve and switch return to normal and the fault lights go off. Sometimes driving a very short distance to get the electronics working will clear the faults.
Try stomping on the brake pedal quickly and firmly. This may persuade the valve and switch to return to a normal position if its a tad stuck.
If not try bleeding the brakes again and ensure you have no leaks. If you have any small leak the light will never go off
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Could be a few things.
Did you disturb the wheel speed sensors ? Are they properly connected?
Could be air still in front brake system?
There is a valve and switch that senses hydraulic pressure differential between front and back brakes. When you bled front brakes this valve and switch sensed different pressures and activated your light and faults. Usually once bleeding is finished pressure equalizes and the valve and switch return to normal and the fault lights go off. Sometimes driving a very short distance to get the electronics working will clear the faults.
Try stomping on the brake pedal quickly and firmly. This may persuade the valve and switch to return to a normal position if its a tad stuck.
If not try bleeding the brakes again and ensure you have no leaks. If you have any small leak the light will never go off
Did you disturb the wheel speed sensors ? Are they properly connected?
Could be air still in front brake system?
There is a valve and switch that senses hydraulic pressure differential between front and back brakes. When you bled front brakes this valve and switch sensed different pressures and activated your light and faults. Usually once bleeding is finished pressure equalizes and the valve and switch return to normal and the fault lights go off. Sometimes driving a very short distance to get the electronics working will clear the faults.
Try stomping on the brake pedal quickly and firmly. This may persuade the valve and switch to return to a normal position if its a tad stuck.
If not try bleeding the brakes again and ensure you have no leaks. If you have any small leak the light will never go off
Thanks!!
Record Breaker
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,400
Likes: 5
From: San Pedro, California
The ABS primes itself at startup. As soon as you turn the truck on, the ABS goes through electrical tests and then pumps the system and checks to make sure there is enough hydraulic pressure in the brake line. Sounds like you may have induced air into the system. There is no need to bleed bakes if you didn't loose any fluid.