That makes perfect sense, that could be why sometimes I get 60 and others 0, if the piston is at the top when I insert the guage, then there is no air to compress, however if the piston is at the bottom, it at least has some air to compress giving me the lovely low reading of 60. I will assemble the timing chain assembly and post the compression results, probably wont have them posted till saturday evening. Wish me luck!

 

Heads, cams, and timing chain assembly have been installed once again. Marks on crankshaft and camshaft sprockets all line up perfectly with the colored links on the chain. Now compression results are as follows:

Looking at the engine from the front of the car:

Left side 1st cylinder: 40psi
Left side 2nd cylinder: 60psi
Left side 3rd cylidner: 60psi

Right side 1st cylinder: 90psi
Right side 2nd cylinder: 90psi
Right side 3rd cylinder: 110psi

This is definately a huge improvement from the first time, but something still isn't right!!!!!!!!!

I cant keep throwing money into this car, but if I dont get it right then I'm out everything I have in it!

Another huge concern is now that I've fixed the water pump, I'm having issues with the oil pump. While cranking the engine, water pours from behind the oil pump sprocket! WTF is going on? I'll be removing the oil pump after I get compression back to normal so for now I'll worry more about compression.

I am certian that my timing is correct as there is no slack in the chain and I have been watchin carefully to see if it jumps, however I can not get my factory timing marks to realign, anybody know how many times I have to turn the engine over before they will realign?

Also, I would like to check the timing on my secondary chains, however there are no colored links on the chain like the book says. Any suggestions?

I need some serious help people! Why do my compression results still suffer?

 

Well, a cap full of oil in each cylinder shoots compression right up to 180psi. Guess my rings are bad, wish I would have known before I sunk $1,300 in this hunk of junk.

 

Blow some compressed air into the worst cylinder and see if have air comming out the crank case. I know the factory link marks never line back up again, but the cam and crank marks will. What I mean is if you get everything set then crank the engine over 2 full revolutions, the crank pulley mark will line up with the pointer on the oil pump and the cam pulley marks will be in their correct orientation. I too came across the 2nd chain cam issue. I made sure to mark the sprockets and chain prior to disassembly.

 

Its the rings, I got it put together today and it runs smooth. But it smokes bad and still has low compression. I also drove it and it doesn't have much power. I don't know what to do now. Could I possibly get by with honing the cylinders and slappin in new rings? Or will it need to be bored? The cylinder walls didn't look bad to me. Or is there anything magical in a bottle I can pour on this thing? Lol im sick to my stomache over all the money and labor I've put into this repair.

 

No body makes oversized pistons for the 2.7, I already checked when I started on rebuilding my 2.7. This was your car that you fixed? What was the symptoms that you felt it needed head gaskets to begin with?

 

I bought it from someone who thought the head gasket was blown, easy enough I thought. But he said he drove it, it overheated, and quit running. It turned out the water pump was shot, probably why it overheated. But now im stuck with a Damn nice boat anchor with a new valve job.

 

Sounds like the person selling the car was pretty smart. I found out that my 2.7 had a new water pump put in. Which is probably why the bearing failed 6 months after I bought the car.

 

I plan on letting the car sit for a while until I have time for it again. Do you think that if I were to hone the cylinders and install new rings that I could regain my compression? The cylinder walls didn't look bad to me, no grooves or pits. The car starts and runs like perfect but it just smokes and doesn't have much power.

 

Anytime you install new rings, you need to de-glaze the cylinder walls.