ESP/BAS light goes on when pressing the brake
Hello, I bought a 2009 Dodge Journey SXT with the 3.5 engine. They said the ESP/BAS light will go on sometimes but I would like to fix it. I found that the light goes on when I press the brake pedal, like when going from park to reverse. The car doesn't need to move and it happens just by pressing the brake pedal alone. The ESP/BAS light will stay on until the car is shut off. The traction control light (a.k.a. squiggly lines or fried bacon car) goes on also, but if I go over about 10 MPH and press the traction control button that light will go out, leaving just the ESP/BAS on. Usually all the lights will be off the next time I start the car and sometimes they will stay off while driving for a while.
I have taken it to an auto parts store to be scanned, no codes and it showed that the ABS was scanned successfully.
I tried the turning the steering wheel all the way to the right and left then restarting the car. Added a little brake fluid to put the level halfway between MIN and MAX.
I replaced the brake pedal switch.
The previous owner had the engine swapped due to a broken timing belt. I did have a dead battery one day for some unknown reason so I removed the battery, had it tested, and checked the cables (one may have been loose). It's been driven many times since then without a low battery problem, stays at about 12.4 until started then voltage is around 14.
I'm puzzled by the lack of codes, and since the traction control light goes off when I press the traction control switch while moving I would guess that the wheel speed sensors are OK. If I try to turn on the traction control switch before moving it doesn't help, the traction control light stays on.
I'd appreciate any word of wisdom, experience, or explanation of what the car is looking for when the brake is pressed as far as the ESP/BAS goes.
Thanks!
I have taken it to an auto parts store to be scanned, no codes and it showed that the ABS was scanned successfully.
I tried the turning the steering wheel all the way to the right and left then restarting the car. Added a little brake fluid to put the level halfway between MIN and MAX.
I replaced the brake pedal switch.
The previous owner had the engine swapped due to a broken timing belt. I did have a dead battery one day for some unknown reason so I removed the battery, had it tested, and checked the cables (one may have been loose). It's been driven many times since then without a low battery problem, stays at about 12.4 until started then voltage is around 14.
I'm puzzled by the lack of codes, and since the traction control light goes off when I press the traction control switch while moving I would guess that the wheel speed sensors are OK. If I try to turn on the traction control switch before moving it doesn't help, the traction control light stays on.
I'd appreciate any word of wisdom, experience, or explanation of what the car is looking for when the brake is pressed as far as the ESP/BAS goes.
Thanks!
Thanks, but I have already replaced the brake light switch on the brake pedal. When I checked the old switch I found it was a Duralast brand, so the previous owner probably tried the same thing. The problem went away for a few weeks but is back now. I plan to check the voltages at the rear ABS speed sensors to see if one is missing a voltage like bad wire connection.
Still working on this BAS ESP light staying on after using the brakes. Found I can turn off the sliding car warning light now if I press ESP off button twice.
I did find that I can read ABS codes with the AlfaOBD Demo app while the engine is running.
ABS had a fault code of C107C and C107D so I replaced the brake switch again, using a Mopar replacement this time. Still same problem.
After driving with no trouble lights last night until I got home, it came up with a P0573 check engine light. Today I had no BAS ESP light, just check engine. Cleared the p0573 code and now back to
BAS ESP after brakes are used. I cleared the ABS codes, no codes until I pressed the brake pedal with the engine running, now have C107C in the ABS module, no check engine light.
I modified an old brake switch so I could check voltages and if you count the pin closest to the plunger as #1:
Pin #1 - ground without brakes applied (plunger pressed in), 1.7 volts with brakes applied
Pin #2 - ground always
Pin #3 - 12v no brakes and engine on, 0 volts with brakes applied
Pin #4 - 12v with engine on
Pin #5 - 0v with no brakes, 12v with brakes applied
Pin #6 - 12v always
A remote starter was added by a previous owner but I can't see any wires going to the brake switch,
the remote starter gets its brake input from a Flashlogic FL-CAN which only gets inputs from the ignition switch.
Tried to remove the remote starter completely but then no start with the key.
Also noticed that I can shift out of park without the brakes applied, and there is no sound of a solenoid in the center console when I press the brake to shift out of park.
The 1.7 voltage on the brake switch pin #1 seems too low to me.
My next thoughts are to check the connectors on the PCM and ABS units, or tear out the center console to see what's going on with the pink brake-shift interlock.
I'd be interested in any war stories of something similar, or wiring diagrams showing brake switch pin #1 or the shift interlock connection.
Thanks, it'll save me a lot of time guessing and braking things.
I did find that I can read ABS codes with the AlfaOBD Demo app while the engine is running.
ABS had a fault code of C107C and C107D so I replaced the brake switch again, using a Mopar replacement this time. Still same problem.
After driving with no trouble lights last night until I got home, it came up with a P0573 check engine light. Today I had no BAS ESP light, just check engine. Cleared the p0573 code and now back to
BAS ESP after brakes are used. I cleared the ABS codes, no codes until I pressed the brake pedal with the engine running, now have C107C in the ABS module, no check engine light.
I modified an old brake switch so I could check voltages and if you count the pin closest to the plunger as #1:
Pin #1 - ground without brakes applied (plunger pressed in), 1.7 volts with brakes applied
Pin #2 - ground always
Pin #3 - 12v no brakes and engine on, 0 volts with brakes applied
Pin #4 - 12v with engine on
Pin #5 - 0v with no brakes, 12v with brakes applied
Pin #6 - 12v always
A remote starter was added by a previous owner but I can't see any wires going to the brake switch,
the remote starter gets its brake input from a Flashlogic FL-CAN which only gets inputs from the ignition switch.
Tried to remove the remote starter completely but then no start with the key.
Also noticed that I can shift out of park without the brakes applied, and there is no sound of a solenoid in the center console when I press the brake to shift out of park.
The 1.7 voltage on the brake switch pin #1 seems too low to me.
My next thoughts are to check the connectors on the PCM and ABS units, or tear out the center console to see what's going on with the pink brake-shift interlock.
I'd be interested in any war stories of something similar, or wiring diagrams showing brake switch pin #1 or the shift interlock connection.
Thanks, it'll save me a lot of time guessing and braking things.


