[:@] Sad Well i was going in the right track with my tires breaking loose or spining even with ESP on ...now it can just chirp and a weak chirp at that...I did the thorttle recalibration when i did the K&N CAI but i didnt re-do it after the exhaust ..Dont get me wrong the car has no bogging no stumbling at all ..In matter of fact the car drives great i just lost some tire spining performance ...Also i was wondering i put in some 87 octane last week and this week i put in 89 will that hurt performance until the 87 wear's out????

 

I am by no means an expert nor do I want to claim any vast knowledge about these cars. I have read though, that the Magnums computer will do what it can to bring the motor back to stock condition if any mods were made. This was read somewhere in here and I can't find it. The post stated that if you wanted to get the computer fooled you needed to purchase a chip. This was actually stated by somebody who was selling headers for the Magnum and didn't want anybody to be pissed after installing them. I guess you can dyno it right after the upgrade and it will look great, and then a bit later it will not look so appealing. On another note, you definately need to keep the 89 octane in the car. It really does make a difference, like if you put the chip in you need to run 93 octane or you don't get the results. Again, please don't think I am an expert, just read this stuff on the forum.

 

To repeat myself, when you reduce back pressure, by opening up the exhaust or air intake, you are going to lose some torque. YES, you will gain some horsepower with these mods, BUT torque is what moves the car or spins the tires.

So your loss of tire spinning is due to the mods you did, best way to get the tire spinning back is to go to a lower gear ratio - which is not available for the Magnum right now.

The old saying goes, that if you change one thing on a car, you must change something else.

For example, add a lot of horsepower, then you need to beef up the transmission, driveshaft, shaft joints, etc.

Cars are wonderful objects, but can also be a pain in the butt.

Happy MODing,

Bob

 

I agree with you on that note but,that's why i went with the flowmaster kit 17405 it has resonators and yes the pipe is 2 1/2 over the stock 2 1/4 so really dont think it made that much of a difference in torque maybe it did..But i forgot to say i have been using 87 then 89 then 87 and i noticed the other day it didnt start right away when i tried it again it started but kinda my a pinging/ knocking nosie almost if the timing was retarded a little weird never did that before...i think it has something to do with the 87 octane i will switch to 89 and stay with it...I hop that will help...Im just thinking that the lower octane is turning down the timing which in theory give you more top end but less bottom end so maybe thats whats happening....I hope ...

 

Going from 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 is a pretty big jump beleive it or not, enough to make a noticeable difference in powerband.

 

One thing we don't know is how smart this computer is. What I mean is once it detects inaudible detonation does it jump to an agressively large retard? Or does it reduce in steps? And how long does it stay there? By mixing 87 in and not totally draining the tank you will always have something less than 89 We don't know how much less triggers retard. Throw in some premium and then go to straight 89. It's one less variable to worry about.

 

That is what i was going to do I have half a tank right now when i go get gas i will be putting in premium in so i can at least take that out of the equation ...And then i will only use 89...I know going from 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 is a jump but the system does have resonators which i thought would help...I think i noticed some pinging the other day too so thats why im on the bad gas theory or low octane theory..The car was running great with the CAI and old exhaust but just before i put the exhaust on i filled it with regular so i might be to blame here[:@]

 

The computer may have been sensing knocking with the 87 octane and may have been pulling timing. No easy way to be sure, though. Your best bet is to run a couple tanks of 89 octane and see if the power comes back.
And while I agree that adding larger pipes can move the torque peak up, I doubt it really did that enough to notice. The stock cats are going to add all the backpressure you need.

 

Oh the car didnt loose that much power i think it has to do with gas i hear some pinging I think and it kinda started funny once or twice almost like it was re-tarded or bad gas ....Thats why im going to take everyone's advice and try running premium thru it and then just make sure i use 89 after that....Oh i tried hitting from a dead stop i got a chirp not like before it would spin for like 5 ft...plus i did the thorttle re-calibration maybe i messed up something too[:@] I did power brake it though i brought it up to 2000 rpm's and i let it rip i can tell you this it really spun and moved pretty good sounded awesome under some hard acceleration..almost like a race car

 

You might also consider some of the "magic mirakle stuff" at the auto parts store. You know, those cans of liquid that claim to boost power, eliminate knocks, and improve mileage when added to a tank of gas. When they first came out in the 60's, all they were was an octane booster (tetraethyl lead, I think). Which is why, if your car was a POS, they did absolutely nothing. "You can run 100 octane in that slant six all year and it won't go any faster, man!" [sm=alcoholic.gif]

In your case, it might actually help.

Boston Bob