can someone tell me why i can't lower my magnum if i have the trailer tow option?

 

The tow package has self leveling shocks...You could replace the shocks and lower it.

 

is there a way to modify the self leveling shocks to adjust to the new ride height?

or maybe if i just lower the front, the back will lower itself to keep things level? just a thought.

 

do you want to use the tow option?
If so, Don't dink with the back. (and no, it won't level itself off when you drop the front)
If not, you can swap out the shocks and it'll drop with no prob. I've been told there are sensors on the stock shock that you can adjust and that'll allow for a drop with different springs but I have not tried it. Seems like it would be kinda loose though. I'd just swap the shocks along with the springs.

I personally am gonna leave the back stock height. I'm gonna drop the fron 1.5 inches, keep 20X8.5s up there and go with 22X10s n the back.
otta give it an old school muscle vibe a bit.
Otta look sweet with the right chin spoiler.
I havn't found the perfect black wheels yet, though Dvinci makes some that are close to what I have in my head.
I can hold out until the perfect wheel comes along.

 

Found this post in the DodgeTalk forum:

"A month or so ago I posted some information regarding the load leveling shocks on our Magnums. I was told that the load leveling was the same as that found in a Mercedes E class. That means there should be sensors attached to each rear shock allowing them to be raised or lowered to level the load. THIS WAS WRONG.

On our Magnums w/ the load leveling shocks we have a fairly new type of shock that requires no external inputs or energy to adjust. They are ZF Sachs shocks. We also received heavy duty rear springs as well. I spoke with a rep at Eibach and he said in order to lower Magnums with the load leveling shocks, you must replace the rear shocks with standard non-load leveling ones. Hope this helps. If you research these ZF Sachs load leveling shocks you will find they are not cheap."

Link

 

Dang you grinner hhhahaha

Another idea that someone else is going to get to do before I do. I was thinking talking to Eibach and see I could get just the front springs to give it the rake. The one thing that I would be wondering about with different size tires (unless the radius is the same), is which set to try to adjust for the speedo. I would assume the rear since that is where the drive is at. The 1.5" front drop should not affect handeling too much. I don't racer her around much. I guess it's from my Harley days, cruising vs racing.

I was looking at the suspension on the front and noticed that there isnt much room betweent that upper a-arm nut and the tire. IM tryingto think right now if lowered is the distance gonna be the 1.5" or .75" reduction in that nut and tire gap. I also am waiting for the rims to come out that catches my eye.

So many ideas, so little $$$ aahaha

 

I used the full Eiback Pro kit on my Mag. It actually ended up lowering the front lower than the back. It gives it a rake look without having a 3" gap in the back. You'll wish you did it all in the long run. When I had my S-10 I had it lowered 4" in front and 3" in back. It looked ok but I had a heck of a time getting the lights to line up with the road. That lasted exactly 1 week before I evened out the stance. There's someone here in the forum that has the stock wheels with the Eibach drop. Take a look and see what you think. I would say you could check out mine but the picture I took sucks and I have aftermarket wheels.

 

Lowering the chassis height will not have any affect on the distance from the upper ball joint stud to tire.

 

Kewl thanks for the info.

 

Check out the pics at the photobucket link in my sig, you can tell the before and after ones quite easily. The 'my magnum' almbum is all after the Eibach ProKit went on.

It rock and I'd do it again...

Mike