Any and ALL complaints about your magnum
cavu,
Sounds like you have a dual problem,,,
Look at the back or inside of the tire, get the run number, go look and see if GoodYear recalled them.
Second, you didnt mention if you had hammer on weights, or tape weights, and if there are weights on both the inside and outside.
Sounds like you have a radial overlap...the weave in the radial ply gets a bulge where they join one of the radial section edge to another.
I would go back to GoodYear, and pitch a fit till they gave me a new set of tires...they would most likely give you credit, adjusted on the amount of wear on the old ones.
If you dont mind hammer on weigth, they can get you balanced real good.
If you want the weights hidded, get them to use tape weights, but make sure the guy doing the balanceing has done it before, it takes paticence and skill.
I sold tires for a long time, there is no "run in" period for them.
Who ever told you it would self correct is full of ****.
Bad tires are bad tires, they dont "self correct".
Ed
Sounds like you have a dual problem,,,
Look at the back or inside of the tire, get the run number, go look and see if GoodYear recalled them.
Second, you didnt mention if you had hammer on weights, or tape weights, and if there are weights on both the inside and outside.
Sounds like you have a radial overlap...the weave in the radial ply gets a bulge where they join one of the radial section edge to another.
I would go back to GoodYear, and pitch a fit till they gave me a new set of tires...they would most likely give you credit, adjusted on the amount of wear on the old ones.
If you dont mind hammer on weigth, they can get you balanced real good.
If you want the weights hidded, get them to use tape weights, but make sure the guy doing the balanceing has done it before, it takes paticence and skill.
I sold tires for a long time, there is no "run in" period for them.
Who ever told you it would self correct is full of ****.
Bad tires are bad tires, they dont "self correct".
Ed
Bad tires are bad tires, they dont "self correct".
I had a 80 Buick Skylark (first year X-car) that turned out to have built the day after the plant started back up after a 3-4 day shutdown. After going round and round with Goodyear and Buick, I asked the Goodyear guy to swap the wheels only from side to side, since they insisted it couldn't be a tire problem.
It turned out that Every tire had a pint or better of water inside.
Ever see a tire guy bust a bead on 35 psi with THAT much water inside?
Got everyone with the spray, it was cool. I told them there was a problem and they all thought I was nuts. Clean out all 4 tires, it's a miracle, no more shake! Had to have been water in the air lines when they were making them up, no other explanation fits, except for some sort of mechanaical failure.
It's amazing what things can get you - a combination of two little I-can't-feel-anything harmonics turn into 'bet-you-can't-figure-this-one-out' Tough to troubleshoot sometimes unless you comprehend the
big picture. Especially if you have multiple causes to a symptom.
Fixing stuff can't be hard sometimes, (but buying stuff shouldn't be...:-)
Mike
>>You forgot option 4....buy a "good" set of tires. >>
That would most likely solve the problem but DC should be doing this not me. My 8 year old Aerostar that I traded in with the original tires and 103,000 Km was smoother and drove straighter than the Magnum. I have a 96 Mustang and it drives straight and smooth. I don't expect the car to drive hands off but I do expect it to drive without the feeling you forgot to tighten the wheel nuts or wanting to turn as if you are perpetually on a cloverleaf.
EBM
Thanks for the info, I will have a look at the run numbers . As mentioned the Goodyear dealer clued in quick when I described the problem.
The tires have been balanced and rechecked by another dealer. It has not solved or even changed the problem. They have been rotated 3 times and the front end aligned once. The location they are in (which I think is the factory location) now causes a shimmy, better described as a wobble that you can feel thoughout the car but not in the steering wheel. It only occurs from 40-70 KM and peaks at 60KM, but no pulling. If the front tires are swapped left to right the shimmy is reduced by 90% but then there is a strong pull to the right.
I know this doesn't make any logical sense which is probably the reason I cannot get any action. The shimmy is liveable as you seldom drive long stretch at this speed, but there is something not right. The attitude is that it's not bad enough to warrant the cost of 2 tires.
When you pay 30K for a new car it would be nice if it drove like a new car not like one with 200K on the odometer.
That would most likely solve the problem but DC should be doing this not me. My 8 year old Aerostar that I traded in with the original tires and 103,000 Km was smoother and drove straighter than the Magnum. I have a 96 Mustang and it drives straight and smooth. I don't expect the car to drive hands off but I do expect it to drive without the feeling you forgot to tighten the wheel nuts or wanting to turn as if you are perpetually on a cloverleaf.
EBM
Thanks for the info, I will have a look at the run numbers . As mentioned the Goodyear dealer clued in quick when I described the problem.
The tires have been balanced and rechecked by another dealer. It has not solved or even changed the problem. They have been rotated 3 times and the front end aligned once. The location they are in (which I think is the factory location) now causes a shimmy, better described as a wobble that you can feel thoughout the car but not in the steering wheel. It only occurs from 40-70 KM and peaks at 60KM, but no pulling. If the front tires are swapped left to right the shimmy is reduced by 90% but then there is a strong pull to the right.
I know this doesn't make any logical sense which is probably the reason I cannot get any action. The shimmy is liveable as you seldom drive long stretch at this speed, but there is something not right. The attitude is that it's not bad enough to warrant the cost of 2 tires.
When you pay 30K for a new car it would be nice if it drove like a new car not like one with 200K on the odometer.
I drive my RT with the seat all the way back and a comfortable height, so at a stop light I can't see the traffic lights, so I have to stoop my head down low to be able to see the light turn green. I can see the traffic light if the seat is at it's lowest position but then it feels like I'm sitting too low, I can see the light if the seat is moved forward but my legs are long so I need it all the way back. I wish I could get one of those options with the camera but instead of showing what is behind the car I need it to show me the traffic lights in front of the car.
Also
The sunroof doesn't seem to slide all the way open, I noticed this when I was looking for another possible way to see the traffic lights.
Also
The sunroof doesn't seem to slide all the way open, I noticed this when I was looking for another possible way to see the traffic lights.
40 to 70 km...25 to 45 mph...lessens around 50-60 mph...goes away completly at 70mph plus...
you have a slipped/seperated/broken belt in the tire.
Not a thing you can do to correct that.
Do not let Goodyear tell you that a pot hole caused it,,,if you hit a hole hard enough to break a belt, you would destroy the tire at the same time, its a manufactureing defect.
Do this test.
Put it to the rear, same side.
The pull should go away, but the shimmy should still be there, but not in the steering, you should feel it in your seat.
Go gripe to the Dealer, they should stand behind the tire, no matter how long you have owned the car.
If no one will help, do what dodge tech says, buy a good set from a known dealer...we use Discount Tire, because of their service, first rate, if your a customer, they even fix flats for free, even if they didnt sell you the tire.
Ed
you have a slipped/seperated/broken belt in the tire.
Not a thing you can do to correct that.
Do not let Goodyear tell you that a pot hole caused it,,,if you hit a hole hard enough to break a belt, you would destroy the tire at the same time, its a manufactureing defect.
Do this test.
Put it to the rear, same side.
The pull should go away, but the shimmy should still be there, but not in the steering, you should feel it in your seat.
Go gripe to the Dealer, they should stand behind the tire, no matter how long you have owned the car.
If no one will help, do what dodge tech says, buy a good set from a known dealer...we use Discount Tire, because of their service, first rate, if your a customer, they even fix flats for free, even if they didnt sell you the tire.
Ed
My biggest complaint is that I can't read my speed on the speedometer without tilting my head down when I'm in a comfortable driving position. I can either have a comfortable driving position, or I can see my speedometer. I can't do both.
Also, the computerized temperature control for the HVAC seems to be a bit slow to catch up.
Other than that, I'm happy.
Also, the computerized temperature control for the HVAC seems to be a bit slow to catch up.
Other than that, I'm happy.
My complaint is... oh, wait... I don't have any complaints.
I have had my car in the dealer for more than 32 days straight. That sucked, but no complaints. I was in rental car that day at no charge and when thewy couldn't get the part right away, they put me in a base Magnum. That suked, but no complaints. They even fixed it wrong and I had to take it back in, but they listened to me and repaired a computer component which fixed the problem. I have my car and I am happy...
By the way, has anyone noticed that we (Magnum Owners) have bought the first production year of an automobile that has not been produced for over 30 years. In my opinion, even after paying $32,000, you have to expect a learning curve with these vehicles. I anticipate things to go wrong with a first year run, they are made by humans. These are not the same engines they use in the trucks. I have a friend that races for Mazda and when I told him that I was going to get a 2005 Magnum, he cautioned me and told me to wait a few years, to give the manufacture a chance to get the 'bugs' out. That is the case for every car in it's first year from every manufacture.
But who wanted to wait? None of the people complaining on this forum, obviously...
I have had my car in the dealer for more than 32 days straight. That sucked, but no complaints. I was in rental car that day at no charge and when thewy couldn't get the part right away, they put me in a base Magnum. That suked, but no complaints. They even fixed it wrong and I had to take it back in, but they listened to me and repaired a computer component which fixed the problem. I have my car and I am happy...
By the way, has anyone noticed that we (Magnum Owners) have bought the first production year of an automobile that has not been produced for over 30 years. In my opinion, even after paying $32,000, you have to expect a learning curve with these vehicles. I anticipate things to go wrong with a first year run, they are made by humans. These are not the same engines they use in the trucks. I have a friend that races for Mazda and when I told him that I was going to get a 2005 Magnum, he cautioned me and told me to wait a few years, to give the manufacture a chance to get the 'bugs' out. That is the case for every car in it's first year from every manufacture.
But who wanted to wait? None of the people complaining on this forum, obviously...
My only complaints are:
1. Why on a $30k vehicle does the gas door open OUTSIDE and there is not locking gas cap offered?
2. You can only open the trunk from the outside.
Other than that, I haven't been able to enjoy my RT long enough to notice anything else....
1. Why on a $30k vehicle does the gas door open OUTSIDE and there is not locking gas cap offered?
2. You can only open the trunk from the outside.
Other than that, I haven't been able to enjoy my RT long enough to notice anything else....
It has an antisiphon check valave in it so you can't steal gas and if you don't make enemys nobody should be attepting to contaminate your fuel system. Most ...in fact i would gues 90% of all cars have no provisions for locking the fuel door.
PS, locking fuel caps cause nothing but grief, especially with fuel system leak checks...they always leak.
Why would need to open the rear hatch from the inside??? Unless maybe you were sleeping or ?? backthere.
PS, locking fuel caps cause nothing but grief, especially with fuel system leak checks...they always leak.
Why would need to open the rear hatch from the inside??? Unless maybe you were sleeping or ?? backthere.
On the last point:
"Why would need to open the rear hatch from the inside??? "
At first, I thought it was strange because even my old Blazer had a way to pop the hatch from the inside. However, I realized, even if the thing was popped open, you've still got to use your hand to raise it while you're outside, so it wouldn't buy you anything to have it popped. . . that is unless, like my old Blazer, I like having it accidently pop open because I hit the button going down the road, or accidently hit the button and it let the rear light stay on until it killed the battery. Come to think of it, I don't miss that button at all!
"Why would need to open the rear hatch from the inside??? "
At first, I thought it was strange because even my old Blazer had a way to pop the hatch from the inside. However, I realized, even if the thing was popped open, you've still got to use your hand to raise it while you're outside, so it wouldn't buy you anything to have it popped. . . that is unless, like my old Blazer, I like having it accidently pop open because I hit the button going down the road, or accidently hit the button and it let the rear light stay on until it killed the battery. Come to think of it, I don't miss that button at all!


