NOS?
#1
#2
RE: NOS?
I have actually toyed with the idea myself but want to see what results I get from a gear swap first. Here are some things to consider:
Wet vs. Dry systems: I would suggest that a properly engineered wet system is a safer method of nitrous injection. Some will debate me on this point but I feel that my opinion here is in line with conventional thinking on this matter.
"Shot" size: Be conservative. Go for a 75 or 100hp shot. One of the biggest reasons people roach engines with nitrous is going with too high a dose to start with or thinking "if a 75 shot does this, what would a 200 shot do?" The stock Hemi should handle up to 500hp without any problems. I, personally, wouldn’t go above a 125 shot.
Fuel mixture: Make sure your fuel mixture is kept in line. Too rich and you won't make as much horsepower, but too lean is the killer. Too lean = expensive engine repairs coming your way. You also want to make sure you have enough fuel pressure. A high flow pump may be called for in some applications.
Chips: Don't use a chip or programmer (once they come out) unless they are specifically made for a nitrous set-up. They can change things that will make your motor a rather large paperweight if they are not tunable for nitrous applications.
The total package: To stay as safe as possible, get all of the components you need including purge valves, a good nitrous gauge, a bottle blanket and a bottle heater. All of this adds up but it is worth it in the long run.
Fine tuning: A nitrous controller is a great thing to have. You should have your system set up to fire only at wide open throttle but a controller can give you more flexibility. For instance, you can set your system up to delay for a second or two so that your tires can actually hook up and take the power. There are a ton of variables that are specific to what you want to do and what vehicle you have. It is best to work with a reputable speed shop to get all of these things worked out.
Warranty: For all but the luckiest of individuals, adding nitrous to your car will send your warranty into the great beyond. Only you can decide if you can live with that choice.
There are a few other points to consider but they can be addressed by your local speed shop. Find one that has been in business for some time and has a good reputation. They can iron out the rest of the details for you.
A properly engineered nitrous system will transform the Magnum R/T into a street rocket. Just keep it safe and work with a pro to minimize the risk to your investment. Best of luck!
Nick
Wet vs. Dry systems: I would suggest that a properly engineered wet system is a safer method of nitrous injection. Some will debate me on this point but I feel that my opinion here is in line with conventional thinking on this matter.
"Shot" size: Be conservative. Go for a 75 or 100hp shot. One of the biggest reasons people roach engines with nitrous is going with too high a dose to start with or thinking "if a 75 shot does this, what would a 200 shot do?" The stock Hemi should handle up to 500hp without any problems. I, personally, wouldn’t go above a 125 shot.
Fuel mixture: Make sure your fuel mixture is kept in line. Too rich and you won't make as much horsepower, but too lean is the killer. Too lean = expensive engine repairs coming your way. You also want to make sure you have enough fuel pressure. A high flow pump may be called for in some applications.
Chips: Don't use a chip or programmer (once they come out) unless they are specifically made for a nitrous set-up. They can change things that will make your motor a rather large paperweight if they are not tunable for nitrous applications.
The total package: To stay as safe as possible, get all of the components you need including purge valves, a good nitrous gauge, a bottle blanket and a bottle heater. All of this adds up but it is worth it in the long run.
Fine tuning: A nitrous controller is a great thing to have. You should have your system set up to fire only at wide open throttle but a controller can give you more flexibility. For instance, you can set your system up to delay for a second or two so that your tires can actually hook up and take the power. There are a ton of variables that are specific to what you want to do and what vehicle you have. It is best to work with a reputable speed shop to get all of these things worked out.
Warranty: For all but the luckiest of individuals, adding nitrous to your car will send your warranty into the great beyond. Only you can decide if you can live with that choice.
There are a few other points to consider but they can be addressed by your local speed shop. Find one that has been in business for some time and has a good reputation. They can iron out the rest of the details for you.
A properly engineered nitrous system will transform the Magnum R/T into a street rocket. Just keep it safe and work with a pro to minimize the risk to your investment. Best of luck!
Nick
#3
RE: NOS?
Nitrous is ok in moderation. The car already runs rich from what I understand but a good mild kit will keep you safe. I agree 125 is plenty as a max. I suggest a NX system because unlike zex or NOS you get 75 when you ask for it the other jets are just not as good. A zex kit 75 is more like a 55 or 60 shot. NX makes a superior kit in total but if you must buy the cheaper kits out there spend the extra few dollars to buy some NX jets to use instead of the others.
Direct port is the best but there is also the option of a annular discharge system. I had one made/designed by a “Nasa rocket scientist” oooh aahhh wow.. The early issues of “nitrous” ruining engines was due to the pistons closer to the intake received less nitrous so they ran very lean while the rest ran even or rich. This caused the first nitrous problems. Because of the design of the throttle body more than likely it would be wise to not use a upper intake injection unless there is a serious equalizer such as a annular discharge system.
I will call NX and see what they say about direct port options.
Ty
Direct port is the best but there is also the option of a annular discharge system. I had one made/designed by a “Nasa rocket scientist” oooh aahhh wow.. The early issues of “nitrous” ruining engines was due to the pistons closer to the intake received less nitrous so they ran very lean while the rest ran even or rich. This caused the first nitrous problems. Because of the design of the throttle body more than likely it would be wise to not use a upper intake injection unless there is a serious equalizer such as a annular discharge system.
I will call NX and see what they say about direct port options.
Ty
#6
#7
RE: NOS?
The early issues of “nitrous” ruining engines was due to the pistons closer to the intake received less nitrous so they ran very lean while the rest ran even or rich
As for putting nitrous on the magnum...well...as I know nothing about how fast the computer can compensate for temperature changes, and or a/f readings from the stock sensors...telling you what will and wont work properly is a shot in the dark. I originally assumed it would be similar to the ECU's in the trucks...however with the new "variable displacement" technology on these motors....I have a hard time believing the ECU is the same.
The only accurate way to configure the best system for your vehicle is to run it on a dyno with a sniffer.....or purchase a wideband 02 sensor setup to test yourself in real world conditions. Anything else is simply a "guess".
Its the "generalist/blanket" comments about nitrous that amuse me....bad info is far worse than no info.
If I were to spray...id honestly throw a Dry 50 shot on it before the MAF sensor and see how the vehicle reacted (using a wideband). Given its rich tune from the factory....I dont even think it would notice a 50 shot terribly much....id increase from there until I got to the point where the stock computer/injectors/etc could no longer compensate for the nitrous I was spraying into the motor (anything above 13:1 on the spray)...and then id find an alternate way to get fuel into the motor (increased fuel pressure/wet shot/etc)....that is assuming I wasnt happy with as much nitrous as I was spraying into the motor without additional fuel.
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#8
RE: NOS?
It occurs to me that the original poster was seeking general information about using nitrous. If I replied with "generalist/blanket" information, it was because I knew nothing of his intent, knowledge on the subject, budget, etc. At any rate, I don't feel that I offered him (or her) any bad information on the subject.
I would question a dry system especially with the Magnum because of its reliance on a speed density system for measuring air as opposed to a traditional MAF sensor. A dry system relies on the engine's electronics sensing that the fuel is too lean in order to properly compensate. This function is better accomplished at the fuel injection site itself in this particular application, IMHO.
Finally, because nitrous is more oxygen-rich than air, the recommended air fuel ratio becomes 9.5 parts of nitrous to 1 part of fuel (9.5:1).
Now I am far from being an authority on nitrous but I have used it in several vehicles without damaging them so I figure that is worth something in itself. My intent in answering a very general question was to provide general information and point the reader to a competent professional for the full story.
I hope this clears things up a bit...
Nick
I would question a dry system especially with the Magnum because of its reliance on a speed density system for measuring air as opposed to a traditional MAF sensor. A dry system relies on the engine's electronics sensing that the fuel is too lean in order to properly compensate. This function is better accomplished at the fuel injection site itself in this particular application, IMHO.
Finally, because nitrous is more oxygen-rich than air, the recommended air fuel ratio becomes 9.5 parts of nitrous to 1 part of fuel (9.5:1).
Now I am far from being an authority on nitrous but I have used it in several vehicles without damaging them so I figure that is worth something in itself. My intent in answering a very general question was to provide general information and point the reader to a competent professional for the full story.
I hope this clears things up a bit...
Nick
#9
RE: NOS?
I dont know of any person on the planet who would ever tune a vehicle to 9.5:1 on dope and call that a proper tune.
But to each his own.
Tis why I mention that I would need to know more details on how and what the ecu utilizes to compensate for A/F changes...even speed density can be manipulated due to the much cooler intake temps caused by the nitrous.
Either way....without proper testing...any recommendation can be argued. However to answer your question...it was not your post I was referring to in my reply.
But to each his own.
Tis why I mention that I would need to know more details on how and what the ecu utilizes to compensate for A/F changes...even speed density can be manipulated due to the much cooler intake temps caused by the nitrous.
Either way....without proper testing...any recommendation can be argued. However to answer your question...it was not your post I was referring to in my reply.
#10
RE: NOS?
The 9.5:1 ratio that I quoted was for nitrous to fuel (I re-read my post and see how that could have been confused).
No harm done, that is what a forum is all about after all. I just wanted to be clear that I was offeing some general information that I have found useful as guidelines when setting up a nitrous system and was referring the person to a professional for the nuts and bolts answers.
'Nuff said...
Nick
No harm done, that is what a forum is all about after all. I just wanted to be clear that I was offeing some general information that I have found useful as guidelines when setting up a nitrous system and was referring the person to a professional for the nuts and bolts answers.
'Nuff said...
Nick