I got a reply from DaimlerChrysler Motors regarding my question of
the Mobil 1 "0-20" Synthetic motor oil. This is their reply:
'We recommend following the guidelines listed in the owner's manual.'

Okay, maybe that is a generic, "CYA" response...lol

It is my understanding that using a vescosity higher than 20
will cause the MDS not to run properly. I bet that is where the
"reduced mileage" disclaimer comes in.

My whole issue was with the "0" viscosity....too thin for the seals?

As far as the heat, I would not have a problem running across
the Mojave in the middle of summer as I have already done
once with my RT.

 

I changed to Mobil 1 0W-20 at 600 miles. I now have 4300 miles and have not burned away any. I will change again at 5000 miles.

 

You need to go back and re-read my post. At no time did I state oil goes to the fuel injector. What I stated was that along with shutting off the injector it also stops oil flow to the lifter so that the valvetrain does operate when the engine is in MDS mode. You can put whatever you want in your car but if it comes into my 5-star service facuility with a 100% CSI and 98% FFV(yes, the highest in the country) with MDS related concerns we will tell you it's your own dang fault. Follow the owners manual. You do not know more than the engineers that designed that engine.

I know back in the good ole' days everybody's pappy would pass down to their kin the proper oil viscosity and brand to run, it ain't like that no more. Follow the owners manual.

I hate logging on and reading posts about how terrible the dealerships are-this is why. Attention to detail-just because it doesn't say you can't, does mean you can. Please read the entire owners manual and follow the instructions. Cars/trucks these days are way more technogically advanced than you can fathom. There are more than 3000 miles of wiring on these cars, they can do things you don't even know about (big brother).

 

YOU need to go back and read your post, you clearly stated that the oil is shutoff to the injectors! You didn't say oil went to the injectors, but you said it shuts off oil to the injectors. How many kinds of injectors do we have? I only know of fuel injectors.

Besides, how much difference is there between 5W20 and 10W30?

Not a whole bunch.

Bob

 

sorry to get involved in the oil wars , but could someone tell me what dictates the shift point. is it the engine's rpm or the cars speed (mph) or a combination of both.

 

Throttle position, RPM and the computer's settings.

 

To quote that South African guy from Lethal Weapon 3 "Who's the dinghead now", I guess that would be me. Typo has been corrected, should have read lifters not injectors. The difference between 5W-20 and 10W-30 is whether or not you feel the transition from MSD to full operation. May not make a difference now but in 20-30K it may and probably will.

Transmission shift points are a constantly changing map based on TPS, MAP, RPM, vehicle speed(VSS), baro, gear position(changes map when in auto stick obviously), trans temp, trans clutch volumes, ABS sensed slip, and a whole bunch of other sensors I'm not thinking of right now.

 

5-20, 10-30 same thing, if you get semi-synthetic or full synthetic 10-30 will have even better viscosity than any 5-20.

 

So far, from all I have heard....not a good idea to go over 20w.....10-30 may not
be good with the MDS on the RT.

 

You really don't want ogo there with the semi-synthetic stuff. try a google search for synthetic oils-there are only 3 true synthetic oils in the world and none of them make a semi-synthetic. You should either be running Mobile 1, Redline,Amsoil, or regular dino stuff. Anything else is a waste of $$$.