M'yep. That'd be her. That's where you are going to put your stethascope to listen to the rockers. The sound could not be coming from your doors.

Now, if it isn't your rockers your fuel and exhaust could also cause weird sounds. Especially if you've got an exhaust leak or detonation or pinging in the fuel.

You can check your spark plugs, fuel injectors and such. You could also try a higher grade of fuel. Regardless of what the manual tells you you should always try to run higher than the lowest grade.

I've used high-test between 91 and 94 octane in my car since it was new adn the one time I used 85 because I couldn't afford the better fuel the car ran like crap. Now when I can't afford it I don't drive the car.

 

no, i was hearing a noise from my doors today...i was not implying in any way that magnum was hearing noise from his doors...sorry about the confusion.

 

Well, the noise isn't coming from the valve cover as far as I can tell. It's too low and it's in the rear of the engine.

The noise occurs about the same time a fuel injector clicks, but it's not that for sure, it's not the purge solenoid either, and when I put Restore in the oil, the noise goes away so I don't think it can be piston slap. The noise only happens up to 1500 RPM, so it's probably not any worn bearings (at 57K?) which makes me think it's the valves because of that alone, but again, that noise is not coming from the valve cover. What else can click like this?

It almost seems as if the clicking is coming from the oil pan, but I'm not sure...maybe a worn oil pump or clogged pickup screen? I will try different fuel, but I'm not sure that this noise is that of pinging or detonation problems. However, when I changed the sparkplugs at 50K, the ones installed were Autolites and I replaced them with the Chrysler recommended Champions. I do not have a torque wrench (from what I understand, they are to be torqued to 20lb?) I just use a standard socket wrench and tighten them until they're snug. New Mopar brand spark plug wires were installed at 50K as well. Would not having the plugs torqued down to spec make the engine "click" for some reason? [:-]

I'd hate to have the mechanic think it's the rocker arms and replace all of those, and the noise still be there, you know?

 

If you are sure that its comming from the bottom/rear of the motor, I wouldn't think its the rockers/valves. I would go more for the crank, even though the lower end of the 2.0 is the strongest, maybe a torque converter? I know its odd, but you keep insisting the lower rear.

 

Could be the oil pump. You could drop the pan and take a looka t whats going on.

 

ok...

I didn't drive the car all weekend, and when I started it this morning it was about 60F outside and the noise was pretty loud at idle. Then, I backed it up the driveway, and you can hear the noise when it is under load, but once I parked it and got out it sounded perfect; came back five minutes later and it sounds perfect at idle. When I rev the engine, it clicks a bit but doesn't when it idles. Once the engine is warm, it clicks/taps all the time.

Does that give you some idea of what it may be due to temps of outside and the engine?

 

Do you have anautomatic transmission or an manual?

 

Automatic...but like I said before, when I add Restore to the oil, the noise goes away at idle and is significantly reduced on start-up, so it most likely isn't transmission related.

 

Problem has been officially diagnosed for my 1999 Plymouth Neon SOHC.

At 58,000 miles (8,000 miles after the noise started) the problem was found. The pin which connected the piston arm to the piston head has too much clearance (presumably in piston #4 from testing), allowing the arm of the piston to tap the bottom of the piston head, resulting in a constant clicking/clacking noise which eventually faded to a light click as the engine warmed. It is not piston slap per se, but nonetheless a problem with the piston. The car was driven with extra care since I’ve acquired it, so either it was abused by the previous owner or it was a manufacturer design flaw. Either way, replacing the pistons in Neon isn’t worth it in my opinion. The mechanic agreed; I’ll either have to live with the noise or get a different car, and I am thinking about the latter.

This does not give Chrysler a bad image in my eyes, I plan to buy another, but I can’t help but feel disappointed in them. I liked this car a lot, I took care of it, and I was hoping it would give me many trouble free, quality years of driving. Too bad I didn’t get what I hoped when I saw this car.

Thanks to anyone who helped.

 

Okay, I'm confused the pin that connects the piston arm to the piston head had to much clearance. somebody please explain?!!?