Turbo Question
As you can tell im new here so take it easy with me.i resently recived a 96 Dodge Neon, well i'll get it in a few days when it gets down here.So let me just get to the point what would it take for me to turbo charge this car( besides the money
) and not blow up the engine.I really want to concentrate on proformace rather than looks for now , and one last question about how much money am i looking at here?
) and not blow up the engine.I really want to concentrate on proformace rather than looks for now , and one last question about how much money am i looking at here?
For a turbo you are looking at about $1k to $4k. As for turboing the car. Quite a bit.
Here is a run down of parts:
Turbo (Don't go with anything smaller than a 16. Smaller turbos build up a lot more heat. And do not have to capacity to dissapatet he heat efficiently which would require internal engine modification.)
Turbo manifold. (Chill Factory)
Cam. (Since I do not know what engine you've got I will not list cam types. But keep in mind Crane.)
Valve Springs. (Crane)
Intercooler. ( several types; Front Mount ((Best)), Side Mount and Top Mount
Oil supply and return lines.
RRFPR (Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator, a 1:1 will not work, you will need a 4:12 or 1:12. Chill Factory or Cartech.)
Return hose to the fuel tank.
Fuel Rail. (optional, you can use the stock rail and just remove the schrader valve to run the return line. Or you can go here: http://www.lfsracing.com/main.html and buy a good high-quality fuel rail.)
Fuel Pump. (Walbro 255)
Fuel injectors. (24 pound.)
Blow Off Valve.
Boost controller. (This is necessary. Autometer is the best.)
Boost Gauge. (Necessary)
Fuel Pressure Gauge. (x2 and Necessary. Autometer is the best.)
Intercooler Piping.
The above list is in case you want to build you own. If not.
Then check out Hahns Race Craft and Chill Factory. They both are around the same price, come with everything you need to install it. Chill Factory is a little better than HRC IMO.
Oh yeah, welcome to the DF.
Here is a run down of parts:
Turbo (Don't go with anything smaller than a 16. Smaller turbos build up a lot more heat. And do not have to capacity to dissapatet he heat efficiently which would require internal engine modification.)
Turbo manifold. (Chill Factory)
Cam. (Since I do not know what engine you've got I will not list cam types. But keep in mind Crane.)
Valve Springs. (Crane)
Intercooler. ( several types; Front Mount ((Best)), Side Mount and Top Mount
Oil supply and return lines.
RRFPR (Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator, a 1:1 will not work, you will need a 4:12 or 1:12. Chill Factory or Cartech.)
Return hose to the fuel tank.
Fuel Rail. (optional, you can use the stock rail and just remove the schrader valve to run the return line. Or you can go here: http://www.lfsracing.com/main.html and buy a good high-quality fuel rail.)
Fuel Pump. (Walbro 255)
Fuel injectors. (24 pound.)
Blow Off Valve.
Boost controller. (This is necessary. Autometer is the best.)
Boost Gauge. (Necessary)
Fuel Pressure Gauge. (x2 and Necessary. Autometer is the best.)
Intercooler Piping.
The above list is in case you want to build you own. If not.
Then check out Hahns Race Craft and Chill Factory. They both are around the same price, come with everything you need to install it. Chill Factory is a little better than HRC IMO.
Oh yeah, welcome to the DF.
If i get the Chill factory turbo kit is it going to come with every thing i need or will i still need to buy other engine mods to get it to run? and Thanks for all your help i would be pretty lost if it wasn't for the internet.
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well its been a week nowand i got the car, now the problem is that the tranmistion is Automatic, now is this going to be a problem with the Turbo ???i dont think i've ever seen one with turbo..

Nope. In fact an automatic is better suited for a turbo than a manual. The gears are longer which means the turbo will stay in boost between shifts. Not to mention that at idle the car is at 1/2 boost where as a manual the car basically has to be moving for it to go into boost.
A few things you'll want to consider with the ATX though.
Performance Valve body.
Rebuild kit (not entirely necessary especially with low boost.)
Transfer Gears.
Secondary Transmission cooler (MANDATORY).
LSD, limited Slip Differential (several to choose from: Phantom, Alabama Man and Quaiffe).
Your stock ATX is good for around 300 hp so you should be good to go.


