Please HELP!!! I'm having nightmares about this!!!
seriously!! last night I had a nightmare about taking my car in to get it fixed then they charged me about 1600 dollars or something crazy and i was like WAH!!??
Anyway, for those of you willing to read this and reply with any advice at all would be greatly appreciated!!
Hello all~
I may not have a dodge neon,
but i DO have a 95 Mitsubishi Eclipse,
which has the same engine as a DODGE Neon 16 Valve DOHC,
if you know about this, i need your help!!
** What happens**
After about 6 hours of my car sitting I turn it on,
I believe the carbon combustion hardens or something and the IAC (Idle air control) or SOMETHING clogs, and then when i start to go and come to a stop and i take my foot off the gas,
it dies,
the idle does not catch in the 1000 rpm,
so what i believe is the throttle body needs cleaning,
does anyone else know something!??
And I know it's not JUST the Idle Air Valve because that was replaced at the warranty!
I am only 18 and bought my first car,
am now the owner of a 95 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS,
Suprirsed me because I tried it a week ago and it was running,
but now I know what she did before that test drive,
she took it out for an hour on the freeway so the RPMs would catch
during when it idles....
it was forutunatley under warranty, unfortunatley they were an Santa
Monica Acura dealership, and knew nothing of Mitsubishi Eclipses..
i took it in, and of course, they changed the 'idle valve' which is
the same thing she changed on her papers prior about 2 times,
a week later it was doing the same problem,
either I would start it and it would die (unless my foot was on the
gas) or I would come to a stop while city driving and it would
flucuate from 0 to 1000 then drop to 0 and die (unless my foot was on
the gas)
so i took it back into the dealer and they changed the 'idle valve',
yet again, and I knew myself that this would NOT fix the problem,
frustrated by their lack of professionalism and care took my car, and
to this day have been forced to work with the problem,
when it comes around I keep my foot on the gas and the break when
idleing.. at times..
it usually works good when I have a full tank with the best gas for
about 40 miles or so, then after i don't use it for about 5 + hours it
will come right back,
or go away for a week and then come back,
it is a haunting and daunting thing that keeps teasing me,
I really,
really, really, really, really, really, really, really, really, would
appreciate any help or knowledge or information you might know about
this... other than "change the idle valve" ...
and if this has to do with cleaning,
can i do it myself?
if so,
how?
thank you so much from the bottom of my gas tank!!
Anyway, for those of you willing to read this and reply with any advice at all would be greatly appreciated!!
Hello all~
I may not have a dodge neon,
but i DO have a 95 Mitsubishi Eclipse,
which has the same engine as a DODGE Neon 16 Valve DOHC,
if you know about this, i need your help!!
** What happens**
After about 6 hours of my car sitting I turn it on,
I believe the carbon combustion hardens or something and the IAC (Idle air control) or SOMETHING clogs, and then when i start to go and come to a stop and i take my foot off the gas,
it dies,
the idle does not catch in the 1000 rpm,
so what i believe is the throttle body needs cleaning,
does anyone else know something!??
And I know it's not JUST the Idle Air Valve because that was replaced at the warranty!
I am only 18 and bought my first car,
am now the owner of a 95 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS,
Suprirsed me because I tried it a week ago and it was running,
but now I know what she did before that test drive,
she took it out for an hour on the freeway so the RPMs would catch
during when it idles....
it was forutunatley under warranty, unfortunatley they were an Santa
Monica Acura dealership, and knew nothing of Mitsubishi Eclipses..
i took it in, and of course, they changed the 'idle valve' which is
the same thing she changed on her papers prior about 2 times,
a week later it was doing the same problem,
either I would start it and it would die (unless my foot was on the
gas) or I would come to a stop while city driving and it would
flucuate from 0 to 1000 then drop to 0 and die (unless my foot was on
the gas)
so i took it back into the dealer and they changed the 'idle valve',
yet again, and I knew myself that this would NOT fix the problem,
frustrated by their lack of professionalism and care took my car, and
to this day have been forced to work with the problem,
when it comes around I keep my foot on the gas and the break when
idleing.. at times..
it usually works good when I have a full tank with the best gas for
about 40 miles or so, then after i don't use it for about 5 + hours it
will come right back,
or go away for a week and then come back,
it is a haunting and daunting thing that keeps teasing me,
I really,
really, really, really, really, really, really, really, really, would
appreciate any help or knowledge or information you might know about
this... other than "change the idle valve" ...
and if this has to do with cleaning,
can i do it myself?
if so,
how?
thank you so much from the bottom of my gas tank!!
Ok. The difference betweent he Eclipse and the Neon is the way the engine is mounted. The Eclipse engine has the exhaust in the front where as a Neon's exhaust is in the rear.
That however, is neither here nor there.
The issue with it idling badly can be a number of things. The most common and easiest to repair is the IAC (idle air control valve) but since you just had it replaced I'd say no on that. Second. Is the car throwing any codes? If so what are they? If you don't know how to check them here's a quick how-to:
This method should work for a few reasons. One, a Mitsubishi is technically a Chrysler product. Hence the reason why it's labeled as a DSM (Diamond Star Motors). Second. It should work because it is either going to be OBDI or OBDII the method should work for both.
Now, as for other possible problems, it could be a vacuum leak from the throttle body to the purge canister or elsewhere. It oculd be the gasket that goes between the TB and intake manifold. Change the gasket. Take a spray bottle of soapy water and soak all the hoses fromt eh TB to the purge canister or wherever they may go. If you see bubbles you found your leak. You can also use TB cleaner, just take care with it, it is flammable. The car will have to be running in order todo this.
Third. It can be an oxygen sensor. You will have two. One at the cat and one at the exhaust manifold or nearby. If either of them are bad you will get a code. If the O2 sensors are bad both will be replaced and the cat will ahve to be inspected and also replaced.
If it's not the O2 sensors you can check your TPS (throttle position sensor) it too should be located on the throttle body. Check for dirty fuel injectors, bad fuel filter, spark plugs.
I would however check for codes first. Even if the CEL is not on it should've stored a code.
To clean the TB you will have to remove it from the engine. I myself am not familiar with what the procedure is to acomplish this on a Mitsubishi.
I would also consider getting a FSM (Full Service Manual) from the dealer. It will tell you how to go about removing adn repairing compnents on your vehicle.
And finally, welcome to DF. It's time to sellt he Mitsubishi and buy a Neon.
That however, is neither here nor there.
The issue with it idling badly can be a number of things. The most common and easiest to repair is the IAC (idle air control valve) but since you just had it replaced I'd say no on that. Second. Is the car throwing any codes? If so what are they? If you don't know how to check them here's a quick how-to:
ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTICS
1. Cycle the ignition key ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON within 5 seconds. To cycle the ignition key ON means to turn it only as far as it takes to get the radio to come on. It does not mean to turn the engine on.
2. Count the number of times the "check engine" lamp on the instrument panel flashes on and off. The number of flashes represents the code. There is a slight pause between the flashes representing the first and second digits of the code. Longer pauses separate individual codes. For example, flash-flash-flash [pause] flash-flash represents the code 32.
A code of "55" represents end of error codes. If this is all you get then no error codes are stored in the computer. This is the normal condition for a neon.
CODE Description of Trouble Code
11 Timing belt skipped 1 tooth or more from initial learned value, Intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor, No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking
12 Direct battery input to PCM was disconnected within the last 50 key-on cycles
13 No change in MAP from start to run
14 MAP sensor voltage too low
15 No vehicle speed sensor signal
17 Closed loop temp not reached or engine cold too long
21 02s sensor problem (oxygen sensor), upstream or down stream
22 Engine coolant temp sensor out of range
23 Intake air temp sensor out of range
24 Throttle Position sensor out of range
25 Idle air control motor circuits, target idle not reached (+/- 200),vacuum leak found
27 Injector control circuit
31 Evap purge flow monitor failure or evap solenoid circuit
32 EGR system failure
33 A/C clutch relay circuit
34 Speed control Solenoid circuits
35 Rad Fan control relay circuit
37 Torque converter clutch solenoid CKT or park/neutral switch failure
41 Generator field not switching properly
42 Fuel pump relay control ckt, Auto shutdown relay control ckt, No ASD relay output voltage at PCM, Fuel level sending unit volts out of range, Fuel level unit No change over miles
43 Multiple/ single cylinder misfire
44 Battery temp sensor volts out of range
46 Charging system voltage too low
51 Fuel system lean
52 Fuel system rich
53 Internal control failure
54 No Cam signal at PCM
55 End of error messages (If you get this only, no errors were found)
62 PCM failure SRI mile not stored
63 PCM Failure EEPROM write denied
64 Catalytic Converter Efficiency Failure
65 Power steering switch failure
1. Cycle the ignition key ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON within 5 seconds. To cycle the ignition key ON means to turn it only as far as it takes to get the radio to come on. It does not mean to turn the engine on.
2. Count the number of times the "check engine" lamp on the instrument panel flashes on and off. The number of flashes represents the code. There is a slight pause between the flashes representing the first and second digits of the code. Longer pauses separate individual codes. For example, flash-flash-flash [pause] flash-flash represents the code 32.
A code of "55" represents end of error codes. If this is all you get then no error codes are stored in the computer. This is the normal condition for a neon.
CODE Description of Trouble Code
11 Timing belt skipped 1 tooth or more from initial learned value, Intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor, No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking
12 Direct battery input to PCM was disconnected within the last 50 key-on cycles
13 No change in MAP from start to run
14 MAP sensor voltage too low
15 No vehicle speed sensor signal
17 Closed loop temp not reached or engine cold too long
21 02s sensor problem (oxygen sensor), upstream or down stream
22 Engine coolant temp sensor out of range
23 Intake air temp sensor out of range
24 Throttle Position sensor out of range
25 Idle air control motor circuits, target idle not reached (+/- 200),vacuum leak found
27 Injector control circuit
31 Evap purge flow monitor failure or evap solenoid circuit
32 EGR system failure
33 A/C clutch relay circuit
34 Speed control Solenoid circuits
35 Rad Fan control relay circuit
37 Torque converter clutch solenoid CKT or park/neutral switch failure
41 Generator field not switching properly
42 Fuel pump relay control ckt, Auto shutdown relay control ckt, No ASD relay output voltage at PCM, Fuel level sending unit volts out of range, Fuel level unit No change over miles
43 Multiple/ single cylinder misfire
44 Battery temp sensor volts out of range
46 Charging system voltage too low
51 Fuel system lean
52 Fuel system rich
53 Internal control failure
54 No Cam signal at PCM
55 End of error messages (If you get this only, no errors were found)
62 PCM failure SRI mile not stored
63 PCM Failure EEPROM write denied
64 Catalytic Converter Efficiency Failure
65 Power steering switch failure
Now, as for other possible problems, it could be a vacuum leak from the throttle body to the purge canister or elsewhere. It oculd be the gasket that goes between the TB and intake manifold. Change the gasket. Take a spray bottle of soapy water and soak all the hoses fromt eh TB to the purge canister or wherever they may go. If you see bubbles you found your leak. You can also use TB cleaner, just take care with it, it is flammable. The car will have to be running in order todo this.
Third. It can be an oxygen sensor. You will have two. One at the cat and one at the exhaust manifold or nearby. If either of them are bad you will get a code. If the O2 sensors are bad both will be replaced and the cat will ahve to be inspected and also replaced.
If it's not the O2 sensors you can check your TPS (throttle position sensor) it too should be located on the throttle body. Check for dirty fuel injectors, bad fuel filter, spark plugs.
I would however check for codes first. Even if the CEL is not on it should've stored a code.
To clean the TB you will have to remove it from the engine. I myself am not familiar with what the procedure is to acomplish this on a Mitsubishi.
I would also consider getting a FSM (Full Service Manual) from the dealer. It will tell you how to go about removing adn repairing compnents on your vehicle.
And finally, welcome to DF. It's time to sellt he Mitsubishi and buy a Neon.

hi i have a question about a 97 neon it keep throwing code number 43 Multiple/ single cylinder misfire and i was woundering if anyone could tell me how to fix it. i asked elharte dodge in holland mi and they asked me if there was oil in the spark plug holes and i said yes and he said there is the problem the oil is reducing the spark and causing it to missfire and ive never hear of that. if anyone knows about it please let me know.
That does not make much sense to me either, considering that the "connections" are the plug where it screws in and the wire. I would test and make sure your plugs, coil pack and wires are good. This might be a little hard especially if it is an intermitant problem, but pull each plug and ground it to the car, make sure you are insulated if you are touching the plug, and have someone turn the key. I would just replace the plugs and wires and go from there, some good wires never hurt anyone. The only other things I could think it could be is an injector cloged.
That makes perfect sense.
If there is oil on the electrode of the plug then it will foul out and cause a misfire or cease to fire. So, he's right, there may be a problem.
But, if the oil is on the threads then it sounds more like you've got bad spark plug tubes. Generally speaking though, if you've got a code 43 chances are you've got either a fouled injector, bad coil (very unlikely) or bad plugs and wires.
I'd replace the wires, plugs and run some fuel injector cleaner.
If there is oil on the electrode of the plug then it will foul out and cause a misfire or cease to fire. So, he's right, there may be a problem.
But, if the oil is on the threads then it sounds more like you've got bad spark plug tubes. Generally speaking though, if you've got a code 43 chances are you've got either a fouled injector, bad coil (very unlikely) or bad plugs and wires.
I'd replace the wires, plugs and run some fuel injector cleaner.
ok i just replaced the wires and plug and fuel injectors about 3 days ago and i didnt have any money left over for a coil pack. if anyone has an extra one laying around i could use it. i did get the injectors used. they came off of a 95 neon and they seem to be smaller than mine is. should i try to clean my old ones or keep the smaller ones on?
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Your coil is not the problem. They never go bad.
Try cleaning your old ones and keep them as a spare set. Try resetting the computer as well. Remove the negative battery cable for 30 minutes to an hour.
Also, was the oil on the threads to the sparkplug or the electrode?
Try cleaning your old ones and keep them as a spare set. Try resetting the computer as well. Remove the negative battery cable for 30 minutes to an hour.
Also, was the oil on the threads to the sparkplug or the electrode?
Sounds like bad spark plug tube seals.
To repair that youa re oging to have to pullt he valve cover and then remove the tubes and replace them. You can get new tubes and gaskets at the dealer for about $2 a piece. You will nneed all 4.
To repair that youa re oging to have to pullt he valve cover and then remove the tubes and replace them. You can get new tubes and gaskets at the dealer for about $2 a piece. You will nneed all 4.


