Mileage
#32
RE: Mileage
I have to fill up every 225-240 miles in my 96 sohc ATX. I drive it really hard though. But still... it is dissappointing to only get 20-23mpg. Most of my driving is not highway either. Last tank I filled up on 93oct instead of 87oct and got 260 on that tank, today I filled back up with 87.. we'll see what happens.
#33
RE: Mileage
ORIGINAL: 2004sxt
It's got almost 20,000 miles on it right now. One thing I have noticed though, which might not mean anything, is that whenever I have the air conditioning set to either the Floor/Defrost or just the Defrost option it kicks my idle RPM from 500 to about 850. Maybe whenever I leave the defrost on it's killing my gas mileage. Weird thing though too. I let it get reallly low on gas again and I put about 8 gallons in and it filled my tank up? Maybe I just have a really small tank.
It's got almost 20,000 miles on it right now. One thing I have noticed though, which might not mean anything, is that whenever I have the air conditioning set to either the Floor/Defrost or just the Defrost option it kicks my idle RPM from 500 to about 850. Maybe whenever I leave the defrost on it's killing my gas mileage. Weird thing though too. I let it get reallly low on gas again and I put about 8 gallons in and it filled my tank up? Maybe I just have a really small tank.
#34
RE: Mileage
I am averaging (at 75-85 mph) 34-39mpg on Highway trips, though very few in numbers unfortunately and about 24-27mpg city with A LOT of stop and go (DARN Street Lights!! [:@]).
It definitely could be something tied into the O2 sensor but unfortunately those figures they plot out on the sticker vary (if I am not mistaken) b/n 7-14 (+ or -) so it may be normal if that is such a thing.
In reference to the thread earlier about not taking their Neon over 3000rpm, I still feel the motor needs to be worked (not all the time mind you) in order for it to perform properly. Pushing her on occasion b/n 3500 and 4500 will just help work the motor better (from what I have been told).
Best of luck!
It definitely could be something tied into the O2 sensor but unfortunately those figures they plot out on the sticker vary (if I am not mistaken) b/n 7-14 (+ or -) so it may be normal if that is such a thing.
In reference to the thread earlier about not taking their Neon over 3000rpm, I still feel the motor needs to be worked (not all the time mind you) in order for it to perform properly. Pushing her on occasion b/n 3500 and 4500 will just help work the motor better (from what I have been told).
Best of luck!
#35
RE: Mileage
Well let start froom the basics first.
When you do fill up from the light coming on or hitting the red on you gas gage how much are you adding to fill her up? Are you topping off after it kicks off or not?
When I filled up a NEON that I was renting the light came on and was in the RED I could only put in 7.5 GALLONS!!! My NEON that I just bought IS a base model and it is getting ABOUT 31 MPG. No light on mine so no info there.
Next set of questions...
Are you using Air Conditoning (It Runs in DEFROST by default to dry the air)? Are you using the rear window defroster much. Are you witing for the car to warm up or just driving slowly after a few seconds. Are you in the CITY or OPEN Highway. Do you have an AUTOMATIC or MANUAL??
WHY all the questions???
Well these all affect the performance. As the car warms up is burns fuel, Not just like when its warm it actually adds fuel to warm up the engine faster. If you run AC, the FAN, rear widow DEFROSTER, etc. you are loading the ALternator and thus then engine VIA the Serpantine belt. MORE loads MORE fuel burned. When the AC is burning you are also loading the serpantine not just from the Alternator but the AC compressor as well. To compress the refridgerant to allow it to transfer heat to the air flowing over the condenser in the front of the car. Which in trafic has to run the Condenser FAN (More electrical load).
If you live near a big city you also get reformulated GAS (Not used in milage testing by the Goverment ) which you loose 5-10% of your milage due to alcohol in the fuel. You actually loose 5% of the energy available from straight GASOLINE.
Manual verses Autotic. Well all that fluid used to turn the trans absorbs more energy to do its work and thus car rating are normally lower (More so with small engines) so if you row your own gears you get better mileage.
Do you have any after market stereo such as extra AMPs and Big freakin speakers??? Guess what again more electrical load.
Tire Pressure if not maintained will also reduce fuels economy hows your air filter. Have you installed a K&N still filter as this can cause oil to migrate to the Mass airflow senser and mess up aire fuel calculations. If bad enousgh leave car in open loop longer and thus adding more fuel like its trying to warm up.
If you don't top off you may be leaving lots of unused space at the top of the fuel tank unused. However caution as if you fill up too much you fill you evaprative system and destroy it and cause emissions problems.
How about tune up???
It's fuel injected I know but 20K on Champion sparkplugs I don't care what MOPAR say's change them (Not hard) I would recommend 10K interval. Haey I bought a spare set and got change back from a $5. Check condition of spark plug wires.
Hope this sheds some light on why your milage may not be as good as expected.
Tom
When you do fill up from the light coming on or hitting the red on you gas gage how much are you adding to fill her up? Are you topping off after it kicks off or not?
When I filled up a NEON that I was renting the light came on and was in the RED I could only put in 7.5 GALLONS!!! My NEON that I just bought IS a base model and it is getting ABOUT 31 MPG. No light on mine so no info there.
Next set of questions...
Are you using Air Conditoning (It Runs in DEFROST by default to dry the air)? Are you using the rear window defroster much. Are you witing for the car to warm up or just driving slowly after a few seconds. Are you in the CITY or OPEN Highway. Do you have an AUTOMATIC or MANUAL??
WHY all the questions???
Well these all affect the performance. As the car warms up is burns fuel, Not just like when its warm it actually adds fuel to warm up the engine faster. If you run AC, the FAN, rear widow DEFROSTER, etc. you are loading the ALternator and thus then engine VIA the Serpantine belt. MORE loads MORE fuel burned. When the AC is burning you are also loading the serpantine not just from the Alternator but the AC compressor as well. To compress the refridgerant to allow it to transfer heat to the air flowing over the condenser in the front of the car. Which in trafic has to run the Condenser FAN (More electrical load).
If you live near a big city you also get reformulated GAS (Not used in milage testing by the Goverment ) which you loose 5-10% of your milage due to alcohol in the fuel. You actually loose 5% of the energy available from straight GASOLINE.
Manual verses Autotic. Well all that fluid used to turn the trans absorbs more energy to do its work and thus car rating are normally lower (More so with small engines) so if you row your own gears you get better mileage.
Do you have any after market stereo such as extra AMPs and Big freakin speakers??? Guess what again more electrical load.
Tire Pressure if not maintained will also reduce fuels economy hows your air filter. Have you installed a K&N still filter as this can cause oil to migrate to the Mass airflow senser and mess up aire fuel calculations. If bad enousgh leave car in open loop longer and thus adding more fuel like its trying to warm up.
If you don't top off you may be leaving lots of unused space at the top of the fuel tank unused. However caution as if you fill up too much you fill you evaprative system and destroy it and cause emissions problems.
How about tune up???
It's fuel injected I know but 20K on Champion sparkplugs I don't care what MOPAR say's change them (Not hard) I would recommend 10K interval. Haey I bought a spare set and got change back from a $5. Check condition of spark plug wires.
Hope this sheds some light on why your milage may not be as good as expected.
Tom
#36
RE: Mileage
ORIGINAL: ewetho
Well let start froom the basics first.
When you do fill up from the light coming on or hitting the red on you gas gage how much are you adding to fill her up? Are you topping off after it kicks off or not?
When I filled up a NEON that I was renting the light came on and was in the RED I could only put in 7.5 GALLONS!!! My NEON that I just bought IS a base model and it is getting ABOUT 31 MPG. No light on mine so no info there.
Next set of questions...
Are you using Air Conditoning (It Runs in DEFROST by default to dry the air)? Are you using the rear window defroster much. Are you witing for the car to warm up or just driving slowly after a few seconds. Are you in the CITY or OPEN Highway. Do you have an AUTOMATIC or MANUAL??
WHY all the questions???
Well these all affect the performance. As the car warms up is burns fuel, Not just like when its warm it actually adds fuel to warm up the engine faster. If you run AC, the FAN, rear widow DEFROSTER, etc. you are loading the ALternator and thus then engine VIA the Serpantine belt. MORE loads MORE fuel burned. When the AC is burning you are also loading the serpantine not just from the Alternator but the AC compressor as well. To compress the refridgerant to allow it to transfer heat to the air flowing over the condenser in the front of the car. Which in trafic has to run the Condenser FAN (More electrical load).
If you live near a big city you also get reformulated GAS (Not used in milage testing by the Goverment ) which you loose 5-10% of your milage due to alcohol in the fuel. You actually loose 5% of the energy available from straight GASOLINE.
Manual verses Autotic. Well all that fluid used to turn the trans absorbs more energy to do its work and thus car rating are normally lower (More so with small engines) so if you row your own gears you get better mileage.
Do you have any after market stereo such as extra AMPs and Big freakin speakers??? Guess what again more electrical load.
Tire Pressure if not maintained will also reduce fuels economy hows your air filter. Have you installed a K&N still filter as this can cause oil to migrate to the Mass airflow senser and mess up aire fuel calculations. If bad enousgh leave car in open loop longer and thus adding more fuel like its trying to warm up.
If you don't top off you may be leaving lots of unused space at the top of the fuel tank unused. However caution as if you fill up too much you fill you evaprative system and destroy it and cause emissions problems.
How about tune up???
It's fuel injected I know but 20K on Champion sparkplugs I don't care what MOPAR say's change them (Not hard) I would recommend 10K interval. Haey I bought a spare set and got change back from a $5. Check condition of spark plug wires.
Hope this sheds some light on why your milage may not be as good as expected.
Tom
Well let start froom the basics first.
When you do fill up from the light coming on or hitting the red on you gas gage how much are you adding to fill her up? Are you topping off after it kicks off or not?
When I filled up a NEON that I was renting the light came on and was in the RED I could only put in 7.5 GALLONS!!! My NEON that I just bought IS a base model and it is getting ABOUT 31 MPG. No light on mine so no info there.
Next set of questions...
Are you using Air Conditoning (It Runs in DEFROST by default to dry the air)? Are you using the rear window defroster much. Are you witing for the car to warm up or just driving slowly after a few seconds. Are you in the CITY or OPEN Highway. Do you have an AUTOMATIC or MANUAL??
WHY all the questions???
Well these all affect the performance. As the car warms up is burns fuel, Not just like when its warm it actually adds fuel to warm up the engine faster. If you run AC, the FAN, rear widow DEFROSTER, etc. you are loading the ALternator and thus then engine VIA the Serpantine belt. MORE loads MORE fuel burned. When the AC is burning you are also loading the serpantine not just from the Alternator but the AC compressor as well. To compress the refridgerant to allow it to transfer heat to the air flowing over the condenser in the front of the car. Which in trafic has to run the Condenser FAN (More electrical load).
If you live near a big city you also get reformulated GAS (Not used in milage testing by the Goverment ) which you loose 5-10% of your milage due to alcohol in the fuel. You actually loose 5% of the energy available from straight GASOLINE.
Manual verses Autotic. Well all that fluid used to turn the trans absorbs more energy to do its work and thus car rating are normally lower (More so with small engines) so if you row your own gears you get better mileage.
Do you have any after market stereo such as extra AMPs and Big freakin speakers??? Guess what again more electrical load.
Tire Pressure if not maintained will also reduce fuels economy hows your air filter. Have you installed a K&N still filter as this can cause oil to migrate to the Mass airflow senser and mess up aire fuel calculations. If bad enousgh leave car in open loop longer and thus adding more fuel like its trying to warm up.
If you don't top off you may be leaving lots of unused space at the top of the fuel tank unused. However caution as if you fill up too much you fill you evaprative system and destroy it and cause emissions problems.
How about tune up???
It's fuel injected I know but 20K on Champion sparkplugs I don't care what MOPAR say's change them (Not hard) I would recommend 10K interval. Haey I bought a spare set and got change back from a $5. Check condition of spark plug wires.
Hope this sheds some light on why your milage may not be as good as expected.
Tom