I got my generic brand puller from Autozone. The small one (3-ton?) broke immediately, so I got the bigger one (5-ton). Don't know if there's a difference between "harmonic dampener puller" and "gear puller", but mine's a gear puller and works great. Just a hint - there are grooves on the backside of the inner ring (closest to the crank) for the arms to grab. Don't try pulling it off the using the outer ring or it will bend. If you have the $100 or so to spend on an underdrive pulley, now would be a great time. Frees up a good 4-6 HP to the wheels even if you decide to keep power steering and a/c.

I've never had a problem getting the pulley back on. Those that have would use the motor mount bolt and a good stack of washers to get it most of the way, and then just the crank bolt for the rest. Like I said, it's not a very common problem, just frustrating if it happens to happen to you...

NGK plugs have a great reputation for reliability, wish I could find them locally and test them ot myself. I have been running the same set of $1/each Bosch copper plugs for the last 38,000 miles, pulling them every oil change to check the gap. They're still fine, but I'll replace them this next oil change to see how the next heat range down does.

 

Ok, I just wanted to follow up on this. It wasn't the fuel pump. I replaced the fuel filter and all codes amazingly went away.

A clogged fuel filter can throw up to 4 codes and cause the car to stall!

So anyone with stalling issues and you have checked the plugs, wires, coil etc and still can't figure it out, the next step should be to replace the fuel filter.

It still idles kind of rough. I am going to pull the TB and clean it (prev. owner had this done, but it can't hurt to try it again). I am also going to try to find a place that will clean the fuel injectors for me.

I have heard there is a way to do it yourself with carb/injector cleaner and compressed air. If anyone knows how to do this, please let me know. I have a compressor and it would not be a prob. to pick some cleaner up and try it myself.

I also replaced the air filter and PCV.

On another note, I think I either have a slight vacuum problem or maybe my brake booster is on its way out. The brakes are feeling kind of weird. It may be the master cylinder needs a rebuild. I just flushed the old brake fluid out and replaced it with new. The pedal is soft, I am going to try to bleed them again the old fashioned way (with someone pushing the pedal). When I did it, I used a vacuum pump and it pulled fluid fine from the rear drums, but for some reason it didn't want to pull any from the front calipers. Since I was alone I did the best I could and left it for now.

Just updating, and thanks again radar, you have been spot on so far.

--Ed

 

Yeah, my fuel filter didn't throw any codes, just killed the car in the middle of the night driving from CT to GA over the holidays one year... I've since learned to avoid driving the car in VA at all (timing belt broke one year, fuel filter/pump another trip, radiator sprung a leak another trip...).

The TB ip pretty easy to clean. Don't really need a compressor, just carb cleaner and q-tips to get the goop out of the smaller holes. If you plan on taking the IAC and TPS off the body, be very careful. Most are put together with healthy dabs of loctite... I broke both bolts on the IAC and had it tie wrapped on for 40,000 miles or so... no kidding...

If you can find speed bleeders for the brakes, it makes the job tons easier and you can do it yourself. I don't remember anyone having problems with the master cylinder. Wouldn't bother rebuilding it though, salvage yards have them pretty cheap. Does sound like you've got some bubbles in the front lines still. Been so long since I've bothered bleeding mine...

Glad to hear the car is up and running again!

 

Thanks Radar!

I am excited about it myself.

I was talking about cleaning the injectors with compressed air. I had heard you either soak them or just run some carb/injector cleaner through them then blow it out using a blow tip on a compressor hose.

Is this something that people do or one of those internet legends? []

I dunno. I will try to find a place that does it the correct way first I guess, if I can't find one for a reasonable price, I might try it that way unless someone says it will fubar the injectors or something.

--Ed

 

Marren Fuel Injection (http://www.injector.com/injectorserv...891aabc14d0044) on the East coast does a really nice injector service. Haven't had to use them yet, even after all the miles I've put on - almost 239k on the original injectors, no fuel additives ever. I'll probably spend the money for the next engine since I'll want it to be as reliable as possible. There's another place on the West coast, name escapes me at the moment. I'm sure any good shop that promises cleaning and flow balancing in the same price range would do just as well. But those two are the ones that I've heard neon owners personally support. I think Marren even did a custom ITB setup for a neon at one point.

If you do it yourself, I'd keep air pressure below stock fuel pressure - 49 psi. Wouldn't hurt to get new o-rings from the dealer, think they run $10 or so for a complete set.