Normal operating temps?
The owner's manual is pretty vague-- it just states that under normal operating conditions the temp gauge will read to the left of middle. I guess that's fine explanation for a soccer mom, but what about somebody who cares? Mine typically runs a needle's width less than the 190 center mark. Highway driving against a horrible head wind the other day kept the turbo spooled around 9psi (EGTs stayed fine though) but the engine temp crept up to probably 210 a couple times. This is my first CTD and I'm not sure how sensitive these things are to heat. Any input?
ADAM
ADAM
210 is fine. . .it is when you hit 250 that you need to pull off.
besides the radiators under the hood of our trucks are rated to cool MUCH more than what the engine can produce.
besides the radiators under the hood of our trucks are rated to cool MUCH more than what the engine can produce.
ORIGINAL: GFB
The owner's manual is pretty vague-- it just states that under normal operating conditions the temp gauge will read to the left of middle. I guess that's fine explanation for a soccer mom, but what about somebody who cares? Mine typically runs a needle's width less than the 190 center mark. Highway driving against a horrible head wind the other day kept the turbo spooled around 9psi (EGTs stayed fine though) but the engine temp crept up to probably 210 a couple times. This is my first CTD and I'm not sure how sensitive these things are to heat. Any input?
ADAM
The owner's manual is pretty vague-- it just states that under normal operating conditions the temp gauge will read to the left of middle. I guess that's fine explanation for a soccer mom, but what about somebody who cares? Mine typically runs a needle's width less than the 190 center mark. Highway driving against a horrible head wind the other day kept the turbo spooled around 9psi (EGTs stayed fine though) but the engine temp crept up to probably 210 a couple times. This is my first CTD and I'm not sure how sensitive these things are to heat. Any input?
ADAM
My 95' (I know, she's old...lol) runs 190, and then drops to like 170, then climbs slowly back and will hover again around 190 for a bit, all during normal driving. But if you need to get on the throttle, the temp will climb higher faster because of the added EGTs. The coolant now gets heated quicker as well. A thermostat opens and closes so fast and that's it. Your temperature is fine. Don't forget, water won't boil at 212 degrees (or whatever temp for your altitude). Because the system is closed, it becomes pressurized. Adding pressure raises the boiling point. Water maybe not physically begin to boil till the temp hit 235ish.
You're running good in my opinion. Just my 2 cents, nothin special.
Good luck with your ride.
ORIGINAL: DieselDemon
Don't forget, water won't boil at 212 degrees (or whatever temp for your altitude). Because the system is closed, it becomes pressurized. Adding pressure raises the boiling point. Water maybe not physically begin to boil till the temp hit 235ish.
Don't forget, water won't boil at 212 degrees (or whatever temp for your altitude). Because the system is closed, it becomes pressurized. Adding pressure raises the boiling point. Water maybe not physically begin to boil till the temp hit 235ish.



