DEath Wobble in 2006 3/4 Ton 4X4
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RE: DEath Wobble in 2006 3/4 Ton 4X4
ORIGINAL: R3LzX
no info on the D verses E rated tires though huh?
I am getting the Kore suspension (Chase) so my coffee wont spill when im ontexas dirt roads as well as the anti sway bar. dumping the bfg's and gettting the toyo open country.
im also now officially broke
no info on the D verses E rated tires though huh?
I am getting the Kore suspension (Chase) so my coffee wont spill when im ontexas dirt roads as well as the anti sway bar. dumping the bfg's and gettting the toyo open country.
im also now officially broke
I would consider the Pro-Comp Xtreme AT's... the ones I have are E rated (325-60-18's) and I have had awesome results with them (to my suprise)... I posted a tire update thread a while back (about 2 weeks ago maybe) and posted pics of my tires with 40k miles on them, still have lots of thread left and they are performing awesome. I too was in favor of the toyo's and used the AT's a couple of times on my Jeep GC & my 2000 ram... both with good results... however these pro comps appear to be out performing the toyo's IMO...
Joined: Jul 2007
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RE: DEath Wobble in 2006 3/4 Ton 4X4
There are many things that can contribute to Death Wobble.
We get calls about this all the time, and the majority of the customers who experience it ARE running D rated tires on their diesel.
A worn track bar can also contribute to it as well as casteradjustment (as was mentioned).
Worn ball joints can also be a contributor.
Good luck!
We get calls about this all the time, and the majority of the customers who experience it ARE running D rated tires on their diesel.
A worn track bar can also contribute to it as well as casteradjustment (as was mentioned).
Worn ball joints can also be a contributor.
Good luck!
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RE: DEath Wobble in 2006 3/4 Ton 4X4
ORIGINAL: cumminalong
The only problem I have when folks mention the steering stabilizer is that it's just masking a bigger problem. With a steering system that is set up right, the only thing the stabilizer should be doing is keeping the wheel from getting jerked out of you hands from a large jolt.
I mean if you really think about it, hell you could mount a 20" travel Blackhawk by-pass race shock and it would certainly keep the steering shimy down. But is it correcting it or hiding a deeper issue?
I'm not trying to cut you, I just have issues wih the overuse of steering stabilizers to correct DW.
ORIGINAL: Drew
I have also heard a bad steering stabilizer and bent sway bar ends and the angle of the sway bar will cause it.
I have also heard a bad steering stabilizer and bent sway bar ends and the angle of the sway bar will cause it.
I mean if you really think about it, hell you could mount a 20" travel Blackhawk by-pass race shock and it would certainly keep the steering shimy down. But is it correcting it or hiding a deeper issue?
I'm not trying to cut you, I just have issues wih the overuse of steering stabilizers to correct DW.
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Joined: Dec 2008
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The only problem I have when folks mention the steering stabilizer is that it's just masking a bigger problem. With a steering system that is set up right, the only thing the stabilizer should be doing is keeping the wheel from getting jerked out of you hands from a large jolt.
I mean if you really think about it, hell you could mount a 20" travel Blackhawk by-pass race shock and it would certainly keep the steering shimy down. But is it correcting it or hiding a deeper issue?
I'm not trying to cut you, I just have issues wih the overuse of steering stabilizers to correct DW.
I mean if you really think about it, hell you could mount a 20" travel Blackhawk by-pass race shock and it would certainly keep the steering shimy down. But is it correcting it or hiding a deeper issue?
I'm not trying to cut you, I just have issues wih the overuse of steering stabilizers to correct DW.
Shaking occurs when a portion of the vehicle has a mechanical resonance frequency which receives energy from another connected source. This could be a multiple of the shake frequency, not just the identical wave frequency. e.g. The front end resonant frequency
might be a multiple of the Tire rotation frequency or the engine / drive frequency.
The only solution is to change the shaking section (Usually the front-end suspension) frequency.
This may involve significant modifications. The dampner appears to be a major factor. Use a new dampner with different characteristics which will dampen instead of amplifying the shake / vibration frequency of the front-end assembly.Insufficient castor may also aggravate or allow wobble amplification. Violent shaking will likely damage associated components resulting in additional expensive repairs.
Last edited by dinet2008; Dec 28, 2008 at 06:57 PM. Reason: sentance / paragraph spacing issues
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Joined: Nov 2007
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From: taxa-massachusetts
I had 2 put my 2 cents in on this one... Putting a new steering stabilizer on trying to fix the "DW" is like putting a band aid on when U need stiches... It might take care of it 4 a little while but U will have to get stitches in the end... I haven't had "it" yet(knock...knock)but one of my fleet (gasp) Ford's did... U have to check everything in the front end... If U think its bad replace it.... or just spend the money on the carli kit and there is another kit U can get... I think someone already posted what they did for the "DW" in an earlier post....
