I think they fixed mine the other day so maybe I won't have very many problem any more

 

OK. So it makes sense to go 5.9. Someone earlier said, if you plan to use
performance parts get the 5.9, if you stay with stock parts opt for the 6.7.
I would like to get an idea as to what these performance parts are, so as
to know whether it will be likely that I use them on my truck... What are the
advantages (and disadvantages) of using these performance parts?

No problemo... Thanks for clarifying, though.

Yes, now that you say 4.10, it definitely makes sense with large wheels,
especially if you do some heavy towing... I'll be doing no towing at all...
Someone suggested that in my case (no towing), I can safely use the 3.73
even with 33" tires... I'll get even a better fuel economy and the engine will
do just fine. If anyone reading what I just said finds this statement to be
incorrect, please point it out to me...

Thanks for the info! 2", does it really make all that difference? I
mean, do you think it is worth it the effort?

Oh no, not me (regarding pure off-road capability)... However, yes, I'll do
some occasional mild off roading. Now it is you getting me a bit confused...
If I keep the stock wheels (8" width), what tire width can I safely use?
This is important to know in advance... Also, are the 17" stock steel wheels
better for this purpose than the optional 17" alluminum wheels (at a charge
of $200), or viceversa?
Or should I forget altogether about these and do what you did, get wider
wheels elsewhere? I need this point clarified...

That's a mighty good looking 2500!!! I want something like that!

If you really think much of it, there are some excellent little
programs you can download for free from the net that will
improve your typing skills... but I wouldn't worry too much
about it (better things to do, and too little time...)

 

Thanks for letting me know (and sorry about having asked the question again
in my last post - we were writing at the same time...)
OK, so those 2" are precious ones...

 

So it makes sense to me that I go for it...

BTW, where did you get those step-on tubular platforms shown in
your picture, that facilitate entry into the truck? I don't think they
are stock...

 

If you don't mind sharing, what kind of problems specifically? And how
did you take care of them?

 

I had some trouble out of the emmissions but the dealer fixed them It really wouldn't have been a problem at all if I wasn't on the road all the time. I just didn't have time to leave it at the dealer for a couple days.

 

The Power Wagon is 3.5" taller than a stock 4x4. A CTD with the KORE chase series suspension will perform just as well as a PW. The 6spd is better for longevity but the autos are better for racing and Brake Throttle Modulation while off-road (for those who know what that is). Good luck in your decision, but I think you'll be happier with a diesel.

 

Well, I'm glad the trouble was resolved and everything is fine now...

 

So, are you saying that a mere 2" lift kit won't suffice to raise,
for instance, a stock 2500 SLT to PW size? If that's the case,
what size lift kit do you think will do the job properly?

A diesel, for me, is the only way to go... You see, I've got to learn the
meaning of important things such as BTM... Thanks for the input!

 

- You should buy 5.9L if you are planning on ANY kind of preformance parts (even just a programmer, like an edge juice or something).

- I don't know exactly (cause I don't have a second truck with 3.73 gears) but It dosen't necessarily mean you will get better gas mileage if you rpm's are lower at cruising speed on the highway. Reaching cruising speed with the taller gears may burn more fuel, enough that you may not be able to make it back up by cruising with 300 less RPM on the highway. Typically cruising on the highway the truck is not under a load and really isn't burning much fuel anyway. During acceleration is where you will really eat up your fuel. Don't get me wrong though, cruising down the highway with less rpm (assuming there is no wind resistance to potentially "bog" the taller geared truck down a little) then you will use less fuel.

- the stock 8" wheel can hold a 12.50" wide tire (but that is the maximum). If you are going to replace the stock wheels with aftermarket ones , then just get the cheaper crome clad steel. However if you like the looks of the factory wheel and plan on keeping them, then get the forged aluminum weels. They are very strong wheels, and are definetly worth more than $200 extra. I just got new wheels cause I wanted black, then since I was buying them anyway I decided to go ahead and get 9" wide, it wasn't absolutly necessary though.

-my tube steps are factory oem black tube steps, after I bought my truck I went back to the dealer and made a deal with them to trade in my gay plastic bedliner that came with the truck for a pair of the tube steps (I put them on though). Alot of people don't like them because they are not much lower than the actuall door sill, and they don't stick out very far. I like them alot though, for those reasons. I basically just wanted something for people to step on so they weren't stepping on the actual door sill of the truck, cause then the carpet gets all dirty and stuff right there. Now people can step from the stepsstraight to the floor mat. I like to think of them as more like just a rock bar to kinda protect the rocker panel a little when I drive off road. I also like to get stuff that was more less made specificallyfor the truck (alot of the aftermarket steps are kinda generic and just have mounting hardware to adapt them to certain vehicles) thats just my obsessive compulsive opinion though, haha.

- I am not convinced that a PW is that much taller, but maybe I'm not sure. A kore suspension system does seem to be the best way to go and the chase system would probably be just right, but all of that computes to $$'s that I didn't want to spend, maybe someday though when I got the money. I thought my truck came out pretty close to a PW look, and relatively cheap too - $90 for 2" level, $32 for steering stabilizer, $1399 for wheels and tires, total $1500.

- Offroad you can utilize BTM with the auto, but for mild offroadingthe average joeshould do perfectly fine with a 6spd manual (assuming you can drive a stick). BTM is using the brake and the throttle at the same time to keep the diff from just unloading on the tire that is in loserock/mud/dirt/sand or just free wheeling in the air. If you are just planning on driving back to a camp site on fire roads or mild trails you'll be fine. I would get the 6spd for longevity.

keep the questions coming, I need something to do while at work, it is a slow day .