Try a pressure washer. I can crank mine up so high that I can write my name in the driveway.

 

Get speedy dri or kitty liter, a large pice of plastic, duct tape and a solvent like brake parts cleaner. Cover the stain with the speedy dri and grind it into the stain very well but do sweeep it up. Then soak the speedi dri with solvent. Cover the wet speedy dri with the plastic and tape it down so it doesnt evaporate very fast. Let it sit over night andsweep it up in the morning. The stain will be gone.

 

check this out..... http://www.coletticonstruction.com/ , if you asked me off hand i would be clueless but our website does have a concrete care section GOODLUCK!

 

i used gas when i did it and it came right off. good luck.

 

I would say some thing like degreaser then put kitty litter on it after the degreaser soaked in. You should have put kitty litter on it pretty quick so while the oil wasn't actually stained in the concrete. Just dump a butt load of it on the ground next time. Over the spill around the spill. It'll soak it up and leave a little tiny stain then you can procede to scrubbing or shuving more kitty litter into it and smashing it into the stain so it really getts in there and then let it sit for a while hours - days depending on severity of stain. But now i'd say degreaser to kinda moisten it up, let it work loose from the concrete. Then put kitty litter on it. Or concrete cleaner and kitty litter. Sorry I like kitty liter because it soaks the **** up. Then it's easy to pick up, then it's easy to throw away don't have to worry about the stain transporting from one area to another.

 

Ok, well I guess I forgot to mention that my driveway is on a slope, and the stain is about halfway up it, and covers the majority of the bottom half. Everything I put on it that is liquid just down into the drain. I bought a $12 box of laundry detergent yesterday, covered the stain (which is quite large, I'll try and get a picture on my lunch break), scrubbed it in dry with a firm brissled brush, rinsed, and nothing. I think it may of helped a little, but I could just be hoping. Thanks for that website nick, Imma see if I can figure out what has those chemicals in it and try it out. I will also see if I can borrow a powerwasher and try that out.

 

Seriously? I thought fram was the best, I even pay a couple extra pesos for them suckers. What should I buy then? Can I change the filter w/o changing the oil if I do it right after I change it? I only have like 200mi on this change so far. And thanks a lot everyone who is helping me

 

Fram [sm=badidea.gif]... You can change the filter jsut have a quart of oil ready I fyou have a napa auto parts around get teh napa gold aka Wix filters. I think they are like 12-15 bucks. Retail they rank up there quality.

 

wix, baldwinor fleetguard. . .too many engines have been destroyed by the fram filter falling apart interanly from the oil pressure generated by the pump.

second. . .muratic acid

 

I have read a couple of articles about oil filters, and they both were in agreement that Fram oil filters are cheaply made. Most of the other brands are similar in construction and generally well made. For an expensive Cummins you should probably use a better filter. The Cummins Stratapore filters are a favorite for many and are available at Geno's Garage. Also, the Amsoil EA and Donaldson Endurance (available at Amsoil.com) oil filters are made of a synthetic media that is superior to the cellulose of most brands.

You can change your oil filter as often as you like. Just fill the filter with clean oil before you install, and check the oil level when you're all done.