Read my post above regarding the offset on the wheels. I currently have 35" Pro Comps on mine with no leveling kit installed yet and I can not get my Tires to rub anywhere. I have at least an inch clearance between the tire and back fenderwall at full turn and at least 2 inches clearance between tire and edge of fender while turning.
This is with a positive 18 offset on the wheel. If you run any negitive offset you will likely rub with 35" tires. Man I wish it wasn't dark every night when I get home from work, or I would take some pictures showing the clearance I have.
Also I will say this, I know a guy who has the same wheels I do but is running Toyo 35" tires that have a lot of meat on the sidewalls. He also has fender flares and that combo makes him rub every now and then on the edge of the fender where the flares meet. If he had Pro Comps he probably wouldn't rub at all. Those Toyo's have a lot of sidewall meat.

 

i got no rubbing here and love to look of the 35

 

i guess i don't really understand the backspacing. w/ more backspacing, won't that pull the tire/wheel into and up under the truck more, causing it to rub more while turning? less backspacing will push it out farther and swing wider and not rubbing?

is backspacing a measurement from the edge of the inside of the wheel to the center section?

 

The back spacing measurement is critical in the fitment of the wheel (and tire) to the vehicle. Since the suspension, brake, steering and drive systems are typically located behind the wheel, the back spacing is used to define a volume behind the wheel where these items can exist.
[ul][ul][*]A related term is known as offset, which relates the hub mounting surface to the centerline of the rim. A 0 offset indicates the hub mounting surface is at the exact centerline of the rim. In this case, the back spacing would then be equal to 1/2 the rim width .[*]Offset is measured such that positive offsets mean the inner lip of the rim is closer to the vehicle and negative offsets move the rim away from the vehicle.[*]
[ul][*]Offset is usually measured in millimeters (mm) and often has the designation "ET" prepended to the offset, so a 19mm offset may be listed as ET19. [/ul][*]Note that offset and backspacing are related but measured at slightly different points.
[ul][*]For example, I have a set of 15x8 alloy rims, with a -19mm (3/4") offset and the backspacing measures 3.75". So using the centerline at 4", subtracting 3/4" from that gives 3.25" for the rim mounting surface, which is measured off the inside face of the inside bead. So where doe the extra 1/2" come from (3.75" - 3.25")? Its from the thickness of the lip of the rim, in fact a tape measure shows the distance from the inside face of the bead to the outside of the rim lip to be 1/2". [/ul][*]Backspacing and offset are two different measurements of essentially the same thing, however they are opposite in sign
[ul][*]So more backspacing means the wheel sits in closer to the axle and that less of the wheel's width will appear outside of the wheel moutning flange, giving a narrower track.[*]More offset means the wheel mounting flange is closer to the inside of the wheel some consequently more of the wheel's width is to the outside, giving a wider track. [/ul][/ul][/ul]Wheels will have a letter designation for their contour or the expected tire bead and rim shape. Common (and generally interchangeable) wheel contour designations are J, JJ, ad JK.
Determining Track Width:
If upgrading wheels and/or tires, its relatively easy to determine what affects the various dimensions will have on the tire location with respect to the vehicle compared to the current wheels and tires:
[ul][*]For each 2" increase in wheel diameter, the outside surface of the tire will be 1" closer to the body (i.e. diameter vs. radius)[*]For each 1" less backspacing or 1" increase in offset, the outside of the wheel will be 1" farther out from the vehicle[*]For each 1" wider rim, the outside edge of the wheel will be 1" farther out from the vehicle[*]For each 2" wider tire, the outside edge of the tire will be 1" farther out from the vehicle, as well, the inner edge of the tire will be 1" closer to the vehicle [/ul]
As an example, take a vehicle running 31x10.50 tires on 6" wide rims with 3.5" backspacing. It the wheels/tires were change to 33x12.50 tires on 8" wide rims with 2.5" backspacing, you would see the following changes in trackwidth:
[ul][*]Tire width: 12.50" - 10.50" = 2.0" wider or a 1" increase in track[*]Wheel width: 8" - 6" = 2" wider so 2" increase in track[*]Backspace change: 3.5" - 2.5" = 1.0" less so 1" *increase* in track
[ul][*]Adding the above 3 changes means the outside edge of the wheel/tire is 1" + 2" + 1" = 4" farther out from the vehicle (on each side) or an 8" increase in track[*]On the inside of the tire, you gain 1" of additional clearance with the backspace change but lose 1" of clearance with the additional tire width, so the inside edge of the tire should remain in the same plane as the current tire [/ul][*]Tire height: 33" - 31" = 2" taller, or a 1" increase in ground clearance and a 1" decrease in tire-fender clearance [/ul]
So, one might check the tire clearance by making up a block of wood that is 1" tall and 4" wide then move this block around the outside edge of the current tire under various combinations of suspension travel and steering input to check for possible tire/body (and frame) contact.
Finally, wheels will have one (or more) hole(s) drilled in them for the valve stem. Usually the hole for the valve stem is placed at the lowest point on the wheel after it has been manufactured and tested. One other option is that a "dimple" will be embossed on the wheel to indicate the low point.

Dodge stock wheels are 6.25" of backspacing w/ +42 offset on 17x8" wheel. If you put 35" tires on a stock wheel. You will get rubbing on the upper control arm. One needs to push the wheel out a tad for no rubbbing. Comes into play atleast a 5" w/ 6" of backspacing optimal w/ any positive offset.The less backspacing the more the wheel will stick out and rub on the front or back lower fender well.

 

Yes you are correct but you can have too much or too little backspacing. Too much and you will rub the inside back fenderwell and other components. Too little and your tire sticks out too far and when you turn the wheel, the outer edge of the tread of your tire will hit the outer edge of your actual fender on the truck.
All I was trying to say is that a 9" wide wheel with a 12.5" wide tire on a wheel with a +18 offset, will not rub at all.

As the offset changes on the wheel, the backspacing also changes the same amount. Offset is measured in millimeters and backspacing is measured in inches. Why, I don't know.
Here are the specs on my wheels:
It is an 18" x 9" wheel, it has +18 offset and a 5.71" and is measured from the hub mounting surface to the outer edge.
The exact same wheel with a -12 offset has a 4.53" backspacing.
1 mm equals .0394 inches the difference between the two offsets is +18 + -12 + a total of 30 mm x .0394 + 1.182 inches. 5.71" - 1.182" = 4.528" rounded off equals the 4.53 backspacing of the other wheel.
This may help you in choosing wheels from here on out. At least you will know what the numbers mean.
If you know the offset (it is stamped on the back of all wheels) you can figure out the backspacing based on the wheel width.

OOPS, that was a reply to "sa1765" .
Thats a much better description of offset and backspacing. Like I said, I suck at explaining stuff like that...........lol

 

I guess the best advise to give anyone when buying a set of wheels or anything. Do your homework and ask questions when looking into buying a product for your truck. W/ the wheels all you need to do is worry about backspacing. Offset will be irrelvent. The only thing for the original poster to do is either go w/ a smaller tire for those wheels or buy new wheelsw/ correct backspacing w/ 35" tires.

Also tires may say they are 35x12.50x17. They may be wider than advertised. Toyo's for instance. 325/70/17 A/T (35") is advertised 12.50" wide when they are actually 13" wide. That will make a difference also w/ rubbing especially on a wrong backspacing wheel for your truck.

 

I put a Rancho 2" leveling kit on my 2007 2500 CTD 4x4. I had 33" Dick Cepek FCII on the stock rims and didn't notice the off set of the axle that much until I put my Moto Metal 955 on now I can notice that the axle is off center by a inch or more since the driver side sticks pass my flare and the passenger is flush. So I will get a Thuren adjustable tracbar in a few weeks to center my axle back. I was hoping to put 35's on later with this kit but sounds like it might not happen with just a leveling kit.

 

i got 35 x 13.5 x 18 procomp extreme a/t's and 4.5 backspacing on procomp series 1079 rims with the top gun customz 2" leveler and my tires rub on the bottom of the fender on both sides of the truck..and a little bit on the inner fender wall and the black air dam on the front bumper...i got an alignment and it still rubs and im kinda irritated cuz its chewing up these expensive tires pretty good.....but TGC says with the 2 inch leveler you can clear 35's HA right

 

i have toyo 35x12.5x17 on stock rims with a 2 in leveling kit and i have plenty of room. tried with my moto metals , no way would those work. by the way, the rims are for sale if anyone is interested. they are 17x9s but not sure about backspacing or anything. so my answer is 35s will work on factory rims, no problem.

 

I purchased a Thuren Track bar when it comes in I will let all know what happens. Next step will be cut wheel wells and put on Bushwacker Pocket Fender Flares