Boy i wish i could have been there...would have been great....

 

Yeah if I can get them all together in one spot lolllll....I haven't seen the 300 in a few weeks loll,daughter gone with it to school,the dually is getting redone due to a smash...Tomorrow I'll be posting pics of the 2 plow trucks,,,,but I'm kinda ashamed,my trucks are work trucks,with dings and
scrapes,and thanx to winter,rust lol,yours all look soooooooooo clean!!!

 

Here's the 2 in the driveway right now...






[IMG]local://upfiles/78988/4AED55BA40594ADC936BBF74EC19A8CF.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/78988/6055808AFEC34319826FCADAF38A87C1.jpg[/IMG]

 

nice lookin trucks !!!

 

OH, THE HUMANITY!!!

 

Alot of the red diesel is now ULSD. Just because it is red, doesn't mean that it is LSD.

 

fixed it for ya.

 

With your truck being a '93, you have plastic supply and return fuel lines. They are of one-piece design with snap-lock fittings at each end.

The plastic fuel tank uses a single plastic fuel pick-up assembly (not the old-school sock on a tube as in the earlier trucks). There is however a screen/float assembly that can be fouled.

The Stock/OEM fuel lift-pump is of the diaphragm type that can fail typically in two ways. It can go to leaking fuel externally as well as internally (watch for the engine mysteriously making engine oil that smells of diesel).


You really need a fuel pressure gauge (if only temporary) to see what's going on there before arbitrarily replacing parts.


If you find the lift-pump suspect, skip the diaphragm type pump and go straight to the Cummins piston style (Cummins p/n ~ 3936320) pump. It is much more durable and flows a little more fuel compared while maintaining the VE IP desirable 15psig. To make it fit, you'll also need a spacer plate (Cummins p/n 3914284), a different tube that connects the pump to the fuel filter assembly (Cummins p/n 3914753). You'll need two gaskets to mount the pump (Cummins p/n 3931348) and two seals for the banjo fitting (Cummins p/n 3918191) to complete the work. Swapping the lift-pump on the 1st gen CTD is much like swapping the fuel pump on a small-block Chevy. Two bolts, the goes'inna pipe, and the goes'outta pipe and you're done. Screw Dodge.

If you're running or plan on upgrading to mildly larger injectors (say up to DDP4's) skip the pump p/n suggested above and go straight to an early 2nd gen lift-pump. WARNING: The 2nd gen lift-pump puts out approx 35 to 50psig and therefor will threaten the VE IP's front shaft seal so you'll need to install a bypass type fuel pressure regulator set to 15psig. While these two pumps are outwardly the same in appearance, the actual piston of the 2nd gen is much larger in diameter and will therefor flow much more fuel compared to the earlier lift-pump.


Regardless of the above, the correct way to check the lift-pump and general fuel supply system as it feeds the IP is to install a means of checking the pressure (a 0 to 30psig gauge is fine) just after the fuel filter.

With the truck in neutral, engine free-reving at 2500rpm, you should see approximately 15psig. It's common to see the pressure at about 10 to 12psig at idle. With stock or slightly higher performance injectors (say the old power wagon 185's or PDR's 190's), you may be able to pull it down to 8psig or so while under WOT conditions. Maybe even less pending you IP settings. (These figures are for the OEM diaphragm type pump).

I'd look real hard at the actual fuel pressure before I bought squat.

Hope this helps.

 

I found the damn problem!!!!

It was the stupid little wire on the pick up pump!!It looked good and was solid,but almost cut a little further back...And to think I was gonna take it to Dodge!!!It cost me 28cents!!!

Thanx for all your help guys!!!