DIY Fuel Tank Vent relocation
DIY Fuel Tank Vent relocation
As some of you know your tank holds more fuel than you can put in. the space that goes unfilled is there for heat expansion.
If your like me and would rather have fuel in that area while traveling/commuting or whatever, you need to relocate the vent for the tank.
Vehicle: 2005 CTD, 34 gallon tank
Cost: Under $20 bux
Parts:
Dorman HELP! p/n 02254 bypass caps, used to seal off the old vent elbow
Dorman HELP! p/n 42323 pvc grommet, what I used as my seal for the vent
Napa p/n 60-1483 3/4" heater hose elbow (any 3/4" elbow will do IMO)
3/4" fuel line, approx 18~24" (optional, you could probably reuse the old hose)

Drive your truck until your tank is about as empty as you can get it. Makes dropping the tank much easier.
Spray the tank strap nuts with liquid wrench (or eqivalant) to ease nut removal

Loosen both tank strap nuts so they are near the end of the bolt. this will allow you to gain access to the top of the tank to remove the fuel line/return line & the electrical connector

The electrical connector has a red tab that needs to be pushed towards the rear of the truck so that you will be able to push the release mechanism down to remove the connector.
Remove this connector and both fuel lines. The fuel lines on my truck were a squeeze tab type of lock... squeeze both tabs and push the fuel line off. Consult your shop manual to see the different types of connectors. IIRC there were 3 maybe 4 of them.
Here are some good shots of them.




Remove the fill tube, loosen the 2 clamps on the fill tube & vent tube hoses and slide them off.

Remove the 3 screws holding in the filler tube assembly to the bed of the truck and remove it.

At this point, you should have the hoses disconnected, electrical disconnected and both fuel lines disconnected.
Your ready to drop the tank. Finish removing the tank strap nuts and begin to lower the tank. If you have alot of fuel in it I recommend either draining it or use a floor jack & 2x4's to balance the load.
you might have to remove the tank straps to make it easier to drop the tank.
Pull the tank out from underneath the truck into an open area.

If your going to remove the fuel tank module you will most likely need a tool to get past the tabs. I tried for the heck of it with a screwdriver & hammer & couldnt get it to budge.

Decide where you want to relocate the vent elbow to. I picked the highest spot next to the fill tube.
Use a 1 1/4" hole saw to drill into the tank. I recommend taking it slow and when you think your hole saw is about to go thru the tank, stop and use a screw driver to pull out the plug so it doesnt drop into the tank.


Once you have your hole drilled, press in the grommet. should fit perfect (mine did)

Optional, I cut my 3/4" elbow down to the last lip so I wouldnt have much of it sticking into the tank. Now that I'm writing this, I think it would be better to leave it on so there would be a small amount of room in the tank for heat expansion. Oops, too late now lol

Install the new or old vent hose onto the elbow and tighten the clamp.
Install the elbow into the grommet. should be a nice fit as the grommet is smaller than the elbow.


Now your ready to re-install the tank.
RE-install the tank straps
Move the tank back under the truck and lift it up into position. Reinstall the tank strap nuts and leave them loose. make sure the hoses are moved into the right position so when you tighten the tank straps, they will go back up towards the fill tube.
Reconnect the 2 fuel lines & electrical connector.
Tighten the tank strap nuts to secure the tank
Reconnect both hoses back up to the fill tube,
Reinstall the fill tube back onto the body with the 3 screws previously removed.
Tighten remaining clamps on the fill tube.
Done.
As some of you know your tank holds more fuel than you can put in. the space that goes unfilled is there for heat expansion.
If your like me and would rather have fuel in that area while traveling/commuting or whatever, you need to relocate the vent for the tank.
Vehicle: 2005 CTD, 34 gallon tank
Cost: Under $20 bux
Parts:
Dorman HELP! p/n 02254 bypass caps, used to seal off the old vent elbow
Dorman HELP! p/n 42323 pvc grommet, what I used as my seal for the vent
Napa p/n 60-1483 3/4" heater hose elbow (any 3/4" elbow will do IMO)
3/4" fuel line, approx 18~24" (optional, you could probably reuse the old hose)

Drive your truck until your tank is about as empty as you can get it. Makes dropping the tank much easier.
Spray the tank strap nuts with liquid wrench (or eqivalant) to ease nut removal

Loosen both tank strap nuts so they are near the end of the bolt. this will allow you to gain access to the top of the tank to remove the fuel line/return line & the electrical connector

The electrical connector has a red tab that needs to be pushed towards the rear of the truck so that you will be able to push the release mechanism down to remove the connector.
Remove this connector and both fuel lines. The fuel lines on my truck were a squeeze tab type of lock... squeeze both tabs and push the fuel line off. Consult your shop manual to see the different types of connectors. IIRC there were 3 maybe 4 of them.
Here are some good shots of them.




Remove the fill tube, loosen the 2 clamps on the fill tube & vent tube hoses and slide them off.

Remove the 3 screws holding in the filler tube assembly to the bed of the truck and remove it.

At this point, you should have the hoses disconnected, electrical disconnected and both fuel lines disconnected.
Your ready to drop the tank. Finish removing the tank strap nuts and begin to lower the tank. If you have alot of fuel in it I recommend either draining it or use a floor jack & 2x4's to balance the load.
you might have to remove the tank straps to make it easier to drop the tank.
Pull the tank out from underneath the truck into an open area.

If your going to remove the fuel tank module you will most likely need a tool to get past the tabs. I tried for the heck of it with a screwdriver & hammer & couldnt get it to budge.

Decide where you want to relocate the vent elbow to. I picked the highest spot next to the fill tube.
Use a 1 1/4" hole saw to drill into the tank. I recommend taking it slow and when you think your hole saw is about to go thru the tank, stop and use a screw driver to pull out the plug so it doesnt drop into the tank.


Once you have your hole drilled, press in the grommet. should fit perfect (mine did)

Optional, I cut my 3/4" elbow down to the last lip so I wouldnt have much of it sticking into the tank. Now that I'm writing this, I think it would be better to leave it on so there would be a small amount of room in the tank for heat expansion. Oops, too late now lol

Install the new or old vent hose onto the elbow and tighten the clamp.
Install the elbow into the grommet. should be a nice fit as the grommet is smaller than the elbow.


Now your ready to re-install the tank.
RE-install the tank straps
Move the tank back under the truck and lift it up into position. Reinstall the tank strap nuts and leave them loose. make sure the hoses are moved into the right position so when you tighten the tank straps, they will go back up towards the fill tube.
Reconnect the 2 fuel lines & electrical connector.
Tighten the tank strap nuts to secure the tank
Reconnect both hoses back up to the fill tube,
Reinstall the fill tube back onto the body with the 3 screws previously removed.
Tighten remaining clamps on the fill tube.
Done.
thanks... it's already linked at the top in the DIY section.
I've filled up 2x so far and neither time have I had any leaks. the gromett was for a pvc valve and was 5/8ths inch, the 3/4" heater elbow worked perfect and fit in there nicely. very snug. I am real happy with it.
I've filled up 2x so far and neither time have I had any leaks. the gromett was for a pvc valve and was 5/8ths inch, the 3/4" heater elbow worked perfect and fit in there nicely. very snug. I am real happy with it.








