old 1990 ctd questions
#1
#2
RE: old 1990 ctd questions
yes and no.
you have to "adapt" some "newer" technology to your 1st gen ctd.
if you want a BAHF, then you have to remove the existing air cleaner assembly, locate new plenum (pvc pipe and rubber boots work) then make a "newer" filter work .
what are you looking to do???
you have to "adapt" some "newer" technology to your 1st gen ctd.
if you want a BAHF, then you have to remove the existing air cleaner assembly, locate new plenum (pvc pipe and rubber boots work) then make a "newer" filter work .
what are you looking to do???
#3
RE: old 1990 ctd questions
As Kev_n_AZmentions, you can upgrade the air filter and intake tube
Then after installing a pyrometer . . . .
- Run the fuel screw in to just before the point of run-away, then back off a little.
- Tighten the star-wheel to the point where you're notsmoking excessively.
- Loosen the smoke screw as much as possible to clean up the off-idle smoke.
- Rotate the fuel pin cone such that the fuel pin runson the deepest ramp (save yourself $150 ~ $200 by grinding your own if you want more there).
- Advance the IP timing about an 8th inch (rotationally). (This will inject theadditional fuel a bit earlier to better use it. The boost will drop a pound or three as more heat is being converted to actual work).
- THE BIGGEST BANG FOR THE BUCK is to install a 3000rpm governor spring (about $16 from you local Bosch parts guy). It will replace the OEM 2800rpm spring you have now. It allows the IP to not defuel till you are fixing to run out of gear (and need to shift).
The above will be good for at least 50 HP (YMMV).
Turbo companies such as HTT offers kit that upgrade your current turbo compressor side in addition to the exhaust housing. If monies tight, get a used 16cm housing from one of the early second gen fellas.
Four inch turbo back exhaust plumbing.
Early 2000something Ferd PS intercooler (fits with little trimming).
You can up size the injectors easily to most any of the later 1st gen stuff but you will need the 9mm to 7mm injector adapters.
It goes on, and on,
How fast do you want to go?
Then after installing a pyrometer . . . .
- Run the fuel screw in to just before the point of run-away, then back off a little.
- Tighten the star-wheel to the point where you're notsmoking excessively.
- Loosen the smoke screw as much as possible to clean up the off-idle smoke.
- Rotate the fuel pin cone such that the fuel pin runson the deepest ramp (save yourself $150 ~ $200 by grinding your own if you want more there).
- Advance the IP timing about an 8th inch (rotationally). (This will inject theadditional fuel a bit earlier to better use it. The boost will drop a pound or three as more heat is being converted to actual work).
- THE BIGGEST BANG FOR THE BUCK is to install a 3000rpm governor spring (about $16 from you local Bosch parts guy). It will replace the OEM 2800rpm spring you have now. It allows the IP to not defuel till you are fixing to run out of gear (and need to shift).
The above will be good for at least 50 HP (YMMV).
Turbo companies such as HTT offers kit that upgrade your current turbo compressor side in addition to the exhaust housing. If monies tight, get a used 16cm housing from one of the early second gen fellas.
Four inch turbo back exhaust plumbing.
Early 2000something Ferd PS intercooler (fits with little trimming).
You can up size the injectors easily to most any of the later 1st gen stuff but you will need the 9mm to 7mm injector adapters.
It goes on, and on,
How fast do you want to go?