I had a true pitman arm puller and it broke. I have a 2nd puller with steel arms on it and that seems to be better with the exception of the bolts holding the arms on... they ar 6mm bolts and are pretty weak. I have a 3/8 tap & new bolts (grade 8) to go in once I have time to work on it. previously the 6mm bolts pulled out.

I have been soaking it in liquid wrench the past 3 days. last night I put the puller back on (with the weak bolts) and put pressure on it. this morning I put another 1/2~3/4 turn on the puller. that turn went pretty easy and I'm not sure why. doesnt look like it budged so something is probably bending.

the point of yanking it is to be able to put it into a vice so I can drill it out properly. According to Don, it needs to be done with a slow rpm drill and I need to take my time so I dont burn up another $20 bit. I tried from underneath and the bit I had was done in about 2 minutes. I think I made it about 1/4" in before it was toast. the 2nd bit did nothing so I decided to yank it off and do as Don suggested. I picked up a slow rpm drill press and a new bit & vice to do it right. If I cant get it off by the end of Sat night, I'm cutting it off with the sawzall and will get a new arm. I still plan to continue soaking it and doing the freeze on it then wacking it from the top with a 2x4 or something similar. I'll be damned if I'm going to let a 5 lb chunk of iron beat me [:@]

 

Yeah RIGHT !!

 

a new suggestion has been offered... a co-worker was telling me how they were able to get a siezed motor freed up by pouring tranny fluid into the cylinders and letting it sit for a week. I might give that a shot if the next attempt does not show any promising signs.

I think heat will be a last resort...

 

Hot or Cold Steve ... which is it gonna be ??

 

I don't think that is going to help you. Like I said before, that arm and shaft have a "Locking Taper" . Meaning that it is designed to lock up when squeezed together. I forget how it goes but I think anything with 7 degree taper or less is considered a locking taper. I think those arms have about a 3 degree or so taper in them. When it was installed, the arm actually expands while being forced onto the shaft. So it is now contracting around the shaft. That is why heating the arm and not the shaft was so important. Oil penetrating it will not help!
I have an idea that may work. Back the nut off just enough to give it slack betwwen the lock washer and the arm. take a chisle or punch of some kind and booger up the last thread so that the nut can not come completely off the shaft.
Now get in it and drive the $hit out of it , find a rut or something and put one of the steer wheels in it and force the steering back and forth a little.
This is an extreme redneck solution but it might work.
But your best bet is still going to be heating the arm up and beat it off.

 

Trust me my friend. Heat is the ONLY thing that is gonna do the job. You will not hurt that steer gear at all. Just hit it with the hose after the arm comes off if you feel there is a lot of heat. The mapp gas won't heat like an oxy/acet torch will.

That pitman arm will expand and break free before you get anywhere close to damaging that shaft or its seals.

(And thanks to my lady friend for typing for me this morning)

Good luck with your ride.

 

Every propane torch Ive used was adjustable, by twisting thetip to get the correct mixture.

[quote]ORIGINAL: BrianSudokhoi02

not on a propane torch.....there only good for sweating copper together. Oxy/acetalyne torches can be adjusted.

 

I know this sounds Obvious but do i need to remove the Steering Box from the vehicle. As it seems now i would have to remove it.

 

to much heat will dammage you sector shaft seal . you need a pitman are puller retn one from your auto parts store you need the cup type if you have an air gun it will come off if you dont you need a long cheater bar and big arms. the shaft is taperd and splined a ball joint remover wont work. they are tough to get off in the shop and in the air with a good air gun

 

I broke 2 pitman arm pullers during this upgrade... ultimately I drilled the arm from below.