Installing my lift
#1
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As you all know I was planning on starting the install on my lift tonight, becuase I have a 4 day weekend. I break out the jack and the stands, and at full height my jack barely touches my axle. And the jack stands barely touch my frame rails at full height. On top of that, my jack wouldnt even let me get a single pump in once I put a block of wood on it. This truck is HEAVY! So tomorrow I am going to the DIY garage on post to install it with a lift. I am wondering if I should bring my own tools. It is 10 bucks an hour for the lift.
Question, should I use air tools/impact on my rear axle, or will hand tools work?
Question, should I use air tools/impact on my rear axle, or will hand tools work?
#2
#3
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Oh yeah.. I hear ya on the jack/jack stand thing.... I lifted the truck up with the two floor jacks that I had placed under the front axle. I placed the two jack stands under the frame rails(in front of the axle)on either side,I had to set thestands on top of a concrete blocks with 2x4's and plywood on top of them. Having two jacks was almost a necessity, not only to lift the truck but to also be able to lift both sides of the front axle independently.
I thought I read you were installing a 4" lift?... I guess that size lift will replace the control arms, correct?
I thought I read you were installing a 4" lift?... I guess that size lift will replace the control arms, correct?
#4
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I have a 2 1/2 inch lift. People call it a leveling kit, but it is new coils, an add-a-leaf and new lower control arms. I want to install a 1 inch body kit and a 1 inch spacer in the front to get 4 inches of lift. Thats where I got the 4 inches from. We will see what the actual lift amount is tomorrow when I am done.
#5
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An air impact is handy for the rear u-bolts, but not a must. Especially with a late model truck. If you use hand tools on the u-bolts make sure to use a long handle rachet or breaker bar to tighten them good. Run the truck around for a day and then retighten them. When doing the add a leaf a large screw u-clamp is handy to hold the spring pack together when reassembling the springs. A spring compressor is also handy for the front coils. I have done it without,it's a hassel. You just pry the springs in with a big bar or two. Make sure to disconnect the sway bar links and shocks when lowering the fornt axle, you need all the droop you can to help slide coils in-out. Watch the brake lines and axle vacuum lines under full droop. Don't mean to insult your skills or knowledge, just want to help.
#6
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Yeah, keep an eye on the front brake lines, the vacum line won't be an issue though, it is plenty long. If you need more droop from the axle you can take the single bolt out that holds the brake line bracket to the axle. you should be able to get enough droop from the axle to be able to just take the front springs out, pu tthe spacer in, and then put the springs back in without using a compressor or prying on anything.
If the u-bolt nuts are rusted on really tight, I have heard it is easier/faster to just cut the ubolts off, since you are replacing them anyway.
How come you are going all the different routes to achieve the 4"?... It probably wouldn't have been anymore expensive to just get a 4" lift kit, right?
If the u-bolt nuts are rusted on really tight, I have heard it is easier/faster to just cut the ubolts off, since you are replacing them anyway.
How come you are going all the different routes to achieve the 4"?... It probably wouldn't have been anymore expensive to just get a 4" lift kit, right?