new vp44 installed,warranty voided before even on the truck
#1
new vp44 installed,warranty voided before even on the truck
i installed my vp44 yesterday and went nicely save the for 5th fuel line i wasnt able to tread the damn nut... lost at least 30 mins lying on the engine cursing....
dropped 1 bolt into the mess and found it on the tad,same as a 1/2 wrench started as soon bleeded was finished and no more cranking forever to start the truck now...
but i found that the 6th injector line was not that tigh maybe there was a fuel leak there....
anyway i got the kill code some month earlier so i wasnt to take any chances....
boost seem to stopp building around 20-25 for now hum......
of course i tapped the pump before putting it into the truck
dropped 1 bolt into the mess and found it on the tad,same as a 1/2 wrench started as soon bleeded was finished and no more cranking forever to start the truck now...
but i found that the 6th injector line was not that tigh maybe there was a fuel leak there....
anyway i got the kill code some month earlier so i wasnt to take any chances....
boost seem to stopp building around 20-25 for now hum......
of course i tapped the pump before putting it into the truck
#2
RE: new vp44 installed,warranty voided before even on the truck
Glad you got it installed. How did the gear pulling go? Did your fabricated piece work ok for pulling the gear?
My new VP44 is coming tomorrow. Gonna install it this weekend, so any suggestions or tricks you learned during the
project are appreciated. Hope you are happy with it.......
My new VP44 is coming tomorrow. Gonna install it this weekend, so any suggestions or tricks you learned during the
project are appreciated. Hope you are happy with it.......
#7
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#8
RE: new vp44 installed,warranty voided before even on the truck
guess why mayfair,guess why :P
and yeah i fabbed a pulle square 3x3 steel 1/4 thick 2 3/8 hole 1 3/4 apart from each other and use the 2 small bolts of the intake horn whit 4x 3/8 nut on each to act as spacer,turn about 2 turn each when tight and voila sprocket pop out...
well 5 and 6th fuel line nuts were a bear to tread in...[:@] new scars...
and dont separate fuel line from each other,they go in 2 set of 3.... when u put the bolts back into place make sur to use teflon on the tread to seal the intake from outside as theses bolts goes trough....
heee make sure to note where the keyway is and on top,mark the casing and mark the shaft on the pump....crank engine to put it on top...
heee 4 bolts on the pump 2 oin a bracket,last one u need to squeeze the bolt whit a piece of paper into a nut using a 1/4 long extention else it would fall and 3/8 extentions dont get anough room...15mm if i remember right,bolts on bracket of pump are 1/2...fuel line are all 3/4,u need a short wrench on the 5&6 line.... the bracket under the VP use 2 TORX bolts.... when u put pump in be careful to align the keyway hard to do right.... tread nut whit lock washer to 11fts then bolt the pump starting by the 2 bolt of the braquet firts,i didnt and had hard time aligning them after....
be sure to torque pump snugly before putting fuel line,i didnt and had hard time...after use a 1 1/16 socket to torque the sproket on the pump to 114fts if i remember right.....
use the 2 large rubberized washer on the banjo output fuel line to the tank on the pump,discard the 2 small ones...use the new check valve.... discard old....
WATCH OUT POSITIVE TERMINAL BATTERY... i learned that 15 years ago whit a watch that melted around my wrist... still have scars....[:@]
watch ur intake gasket,if u break it u need a new one... whitch i did
PUT SOME CLOTHE INTO THE INTAKE HOLE TO AVOID DROPPING TOOLS AND BOLTS...
i had to remove a carb and intake fresly installed 15 years ago to get a butterfly nut of the air filter on my 455 olds
and yeah i fabbed a pulle square 3x3 steel 1/4 thick 2 3/8 hole 1 3/4 apart from each other and use the 2 small bolts of the intake horn whit 4x 3/8 nut on each to act as spacer,turn about 2 turn each when tight and voila sprocket pop out...
well 5 and 6th fuel line nuts were a bear to tread in...[:@] new scars...
and dont separate fuel line from each other,they go in 2 set of 3.... when u put the bolts back into place make sur to use teflon on the tread to seal the intake from outside as theses bolts goes trough....
heee make sure to note where the keyway is and on top,mark the casing and mark the shaft on the pump....crank engine to put it on top...
heee 4 bolts on the pump 2 oin a bracket,last one u need to squeeze the bolt whit a piece of paper into a nut using a 1/4 long extention else it would fall and 3/8 extentions dont get anough room...15mm if i remember right,bolts on bracket of pump are 1/2...fuel line are all 3/4,u need a short wrench on the 5&6 line.... the bracket under the VP use 2 TORX bolts.... when u put pump in be careful to align the keyway hard to do right.... tread nut whit lock washer to 11fts then bolt the pump starting by the 2 bolt of the braquet firts,i didnt and had hard time aligning them after....
be sure to torque pump snugly before putting fuel line,i didnt and had hard time...after use a 1 1/16 socket to torque the sproket on the pump to 114fts if i remember right.....
use the 2 large rubberized washer on the banjo output fuel line to the tank on the pump,discard the 2 small ones...use the new check valve.... discard old....
WATCH OUT POSITIVE TERMINAL BATTERY... i learned that 15 years ago whit a watch that melted around my wrist... still have scars....[:@]
watch ur intake gasket,if u break it u need a new one... whitch i did
PUT SOME CLOTHE INTO THE INTAKE HOLE TO AVOID DROPPING TOOLS AND BOLTS...
i had to remove a carb and intake fresly installed 15 years ago to get a butterfly nut of the air filter on my 455 olds
#9
#10
RE: new vp44 installed,warranty voided before even on the truck
I put a new VP44 in my truck a couple of months ago and Mayfair was nice enough to post a couple of links to some videos that went through the whole process in pretty good detail. https://dodgeforum.com/m_1205798/mpa...tm.htm#1205798The biggets thing is t make sure that you align the keyway in the up position so that it doesn't fall out. Basically you align the engine 180* out of TDC and it brings the keyway to the top of the engine. And really its not as bad a repair as some people will make it out to be.