Here's the easiest thing you can do.

You'll need a puller, but removing them both is no big deal..............as long as the bearing isn't frozen to the stub shaft....

 

thank you very much for the diagram. i dont have a lot of tools, especially not a puller so I'll do what i did when I replaced the wheel bearing on hte opposite side....i'll pull the whole axle, pound out the lug bolts, then drop the rotor on the ground til the bearings come out. buuut, if my paycheck is big enough this week i'll just replace both the rotor and wheel bearings since i have 230,000-ish miles on my truck, it probably needs replaced anyway lol.

thanks for all the help guys

 

You can probably get the puller at Autozone, Advance, NAPA, etc.....

Do the tool loan thing and bring it back.

 

If you can't get a puller, another thing you can do is get a new set of wheel bearing bolts or 4 bolts the same thread and cut a grove in the top of the bolt head so a flat blade screw drive fits it. Screw those in a few threads on all four bolt holes, then just use a air hammer or a regular hammer on the bolts with the groove cut in them. When you get the bearing loose you can use a screwdriver and pull the bolts out and then pull your axle out of the bearing. You should be able to get it out that way too, I use to do it that way untill I bought a puller.

 

yea, since i replaced the wheel bearing on the passenger side in the last 6 months i'm gonna go ahead and bite the bullet and replace the left rotor AND wheel bearing. that way I can just pull the old rotor/wheel bearing and slap in the new ones. on the 7500 GVW its the four-flange I believe, if i remember correctly from my passenger side wheel bearing experience.

the right rotor is still in good shape so I"ll leave it alone. I made the mistake of not having the drivers side rotor turned last time (had 1/2 inch deep wear on it) so maybe even then it was unsalvageable. I do know this...when I'm done, the brakes will work great.

I'm runnin on a tight budget so I'm getting the cheapest parts I can find. But, as far as brake pads, is there any good cost effective brand out there that will perform good, last longer and not cost out the wazoo??

 

alright, i did it.....i literally broke a breaker bar and a heavy duty ratchet but its done.... i replaced the driver side rotor and wheel bearing (my wobble went away now that both wheel bearings are replaced) and put new brake pads on it.....now i have a new problem. my red brake light and yellow ABS lights stay on in the dash. did i screw something up??

i had a mechanic helping me and the only thing i can think of that we didnt do by the book was, while pushing the brake caliper "tubes?" back in (the things the caliper bolts go into that you have to push back in when putting new pads on) one wouldnt go all the way in so we grinded it off...would that cause it? or did my description of what we grinded not even closely match the part im talking about? lol

 

no mine did the same thing the abs sensors didn't read yet you have to take it for a drive around the block or up the road a ways by the time i got to the end of my alley they was off and you might have turned the key on when the abs senor(s) was unplugged

 

or you left a abs sensor unplugged or not plugged in all the way but most likely you need to take for a ride

 

you were right the first time, it just needed a couple miles on it, all is fine and dandy now. thanks for all the input guys!

 

Yeah its weird that it will do that GM turns ABS light right off and dodge you have to drive it so it will read the sensors but GM still sucks.