Programmers/tuners
#1
Programmers/tuners/air intakes
Working with Rich from Doghouse on some mods for my CTD. But thought I would see what the rest of the group is up to with tuners.
Looking to pick up a programmer/tuner for my 07 5.9 auto. There seems to be dozens of different brands and makes. Wanted to get an idea of what everyone is using and why. Also those to stay away from.
I have noticed that they seem to fall into 2 categories, piggy back type and the ones that you download/install. What is the main difference between the two? One better than the other?
My truck is a daily driver and occasionally as a tow vehicle for my travel trailer. Upgrading to a 5th wheel soon.
Also looking at air intake kits. Leaning toward the S&B, but again want to see what the group is using and why. Ones to stay away from.
Thanks,
Ken Smith
Looking to pick up a programmer/tuner for my 07 5.9 auto. There seems to be dozens of different brands and makes. Wanted to get an idea of what everyone is using and why. Also those to stay away from.
I have noticed that they seem to fall into 2 categories, piggy back type and the ones that you download/install. What is the main difference between the two? One better than the other?
My truck is a daily driver and occasionally as a tow vehicle for my travel trailer. Upgrading to a 5th wheel soon.
Also looking at air intake kits. Leaning toward the S&B, but again want to see what the group is using and why. Ones to stay away from.
Thanks,
Ken Smith
Last edited by krsmitty; 10-29-2009 at 08:51 AM.
#2
I use the superchips flashpaq on my truck. It is one where you have to install the program in your truck. It has 3 settings, Tow, Preformance and stock. You can download updates from your pc. It is good for reading codes as well. I haven't any problems with mine in the 2 years I've had it. You can usually pick up one cheaply on the classifieds. On the air intake question, I have the K&N air intake with a amsoil filter. I got both of the programmer and the intake used. You save money if you shop around some before buying.
#3
Good place to start, Rich will steer you right. I'm running a Smarty Jr. Enough power to play with but not quite enough to do serious damage. Run the 100hp setting almost all the time, even pulling my 14k fifth wheel. Temps stay cool. I also run a AEM Brute Force air intake. Really like it, plus there's no oiling of the filter.
#4
I have a Bully Dog triple dog downloader with Crazy Larry that is outdated.
hp ratings extreme, performance, tow/economy its set on extreme all the time. I MUST TELL YOU THAT GET GAUGES BEFORE YOU BUY ANYTHING
once you start putting HP down on the pavement you need to work on your trans. stock trans + 120 hp added from a loader= trouble when you don't need it to happen. Rich tell me all the time that I am playing with fire adding HP to my stock trans.
hp ratings extreme, performance, tow/economy its set on extreme all the time. I MUST TELL YOU THAT GET GAUGES BEFORE YOU BUY ANYTHING
once you start putting HP down on the pavement you need to work on your trans. stock trans + 120 hp added from a loader= trouble when you don't need it to happen. Rich tell me all the time that I am playing with fire adding HP to my stock trans.
#5
- The "Performance Module" installs under the hood and works by altering your vehicle's stock ECU parameters. The main benefit with most of these units is on-the-fly adjustability (changing power levels while you drive) with a switch, or on more advanced units a display that provides additional monitoring and safety features.
- The "Downloader/Programmer" works by downloading and storing your stock computer's information, then uploading a new program to the vehicle's ECU. Benefits of these units include no physical parts actually being installed on the vehicle and the overall ease of use.
- The "Chip" is similar to the module in the way that it functions however most are not on-the-fly adjustable. Chips are not available on many late model vehicles, but do continue to provide some of the highest possible horsepower gains on early model year vehicle
#6
After working with Rich at Doghouse and others I went with the Smarty Jr. Just installed it last night and have it set on the #1: Fuel economy (40 hp) setting. Do feel the extra horses, but will have drive for a few days to see about the MPG. Thanks to Rich and the others who put up with all my questions.
Would like to discuss with the others who use the Smarty Jr to see how they have theirs set up, options etc.
Would like to discuss with the others who use the Smarty Jr to see how they have theirs set up, options etc.
#7
Good place to start, Rich will steer you right. I'm running a Smarty Jr. Enough power to play with but not quite enough to do serious damage. Run the 100hp setting almost all the time, even pulling my 14k fifth wheel. Temps stay cool. I also run a AEM Brute Force air intake. Really like it, plus there's no oiling of the filter.
Did you see any MPG gains? Have you played with any of the Torque, Timing options? What settings did you find works the best for you? I tow a 24' TT at the moment but will be upgrading to a 5th wheel in the near future. One of the reasons I bought the Smarty for was to keep up the performance and hopefully MPG when I go bigger.
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#8
One the torque management and timing settings, there are a few little tricks to getting them where you want and it takes a little experimentation.
Ideally, set the timing as advanced as possible. On a stock turbo and stock injectors, you won't have and pre-detonation issues.
On the TQM, this takes a little playing and looking in the mirrors. What you want to do is set the TQM as high as possible and them look in the mirrors as you accelerate. If you see smoke on acceleration, then bring the TQM down a notch until you don't see smoke (or just a slight whisper) under NORMAL acceleration.
I bet you'll see better mileage on the 70 HP setting than the 40. Obviously, don't hammer the snot out of the truck on the 70 HP setting, but for day to day driving, it's fine.
Ideally, set the timing as advanced as possible. On a stock turbo and stock injectors, you won't have and pre-detonation issues.
On the TQM, this takes a little playing and looking in the mirrors. What you want to do is set the TQM as high as possible and them look in the mirrors as you accelerate. If you see smoke on acceleration, then bring the TQM down a notch until you don't see smoke (or just a slight whisper) under NORMAL acceleration.
I bet you'll see better mileage on the 70 HP setting than the 40. Obviously, don't hammer the snot out of the truck on the 70 HP setting, but for day to day driving, it's fine.
#10
im using a edge juice/attitude stacked with a smarty junior.... if you go this way make sure you have guages for sure!!! and you get a better lift pump like a FASS or an air dog or you will be draining the rail and causing problems. With this setup you can make a sunny day cloudy if you really want haha