True 4inch down pipe
#1
True 4inch down pipe
Got a couple questions bout this. I bought a aurura 3000 turbo awhile back and paid extra for the 4 inch down pipe. But i got the turbo waited and never received my down pipe kinda ticked me off called the company they said they sent it blah blah needless to say i already had 4 inch exhaust on my truck but from the turbo it went 3.5 the 2inches down it expanded to 4 inch. my question is that is this hurting spool up time drive pressure and boost pressure? and what can do order a true 4 inch down pipe? my only problem i have with this is that the exhaust housing on the turbo also 3.5?
#2
Let others jump in on this one Because I am not to sure...
As far as the boost I think it the air wont be able to exit the exhaust and cause the EGT to be higher...
I would really try to get that down pipe that is going to be the hole key to the problem.... You have a good turbo I myself am getting ATS Turbo... I was thinking twins or a 4000 I still have to talk to my Friend and see what he says.. But lets see what everyone else says about your problem..
As far as the boost I think it the air wont be able to exit the exhaust and cause the EGT to be higher...
I would really try to get that down pipe that is going to be the hole key to the problem.... You have a good turbo I myself am getting ATS Turbo... I was thinking twins or a 4000 I still have to talk to my Friend and see what he says.. But lets see what everyone else says about your problem..
#3
Yes, you can get a 4" down-pipe for it and, Yes, that existing downpipe is hurting the turbos performance and keeping the EGT's higher.
All you need is an HX40 downpipe, but....
The problem is, the turbo you have has the 3.5" adapter on it. ATS does have the 4" adapter, it simply bolts on the back of the housing and you're in business.
If the place you bought it from actually installed the parts and actually worked on trucks, they'd know that.
Let me know if you need help with the parts and we'll make sure you get the right stuff.
The problem is that the
All you need is an HX40 downpipe, but....
The problem is, the turbo you have has the 3.5" adapter on it. ATS does have the 4" adapter, it simply bolts on the back of the housing and you're in business.
If the place you bought it from actually installed the parts and actually worked on trucks, they'd know that.
Let me know if you need help with the parts and we'll make sure you get the right stuff.
The problem is that the
#4
thanks coal train yeah the place i bought it from was etr diesel in tennesse and of course they went out of business. as far as the adapter no clue where to get it from other than ats and their website sucks if you ask me probly have to call em. unless theirs a part number or somthing? hoopfully i can see alittle better spool up and maybe few more psi. probly will even out the drive pressure alot.
#5
#6
I can get you the adapter for the 4" exhaust, that's no problem.
It's just a bolt on flange on the back of the turbo. You remove 6 bolts on the back of the exhaust housing, remove the flange, put the new one on and tightern it back down.
Here's what the flange on looks like, it's nothing difficult. I remove the flange from the exhaust housing if I install a 3000 on someones truck with a stock manifold simply because the clearance is very tight for the mounting bolts.....
What I normally do is take a stock manifold that I have at the shop, sand blast it and hit it with 2000* paint so it doesn't look like crap going on the customers truck. I just think it looks like garbage to put a nice shiny turbo on an old rust manifold when it takes 10 mintues to blast it and paint it.
Here's the difference. These are both stock manifolds, but we blast and paint the OEM manifold when installing the new turbo. Look at this next picture and you see bolts to remove the exhaust flange.
It's just a bolt on flange on the back of the turbo. You remove 6 bolts on the back of the exhaust housing, remove the flange, put the new one on and tightern it back down.
Here's what the flange on looks like, it's nothing difficult. I remove the flange from the exhaust housing if I install a 3000 on someones truck with a stock manifold simply because the clearance is very tight for the mounting bolts.....
What I normally do is take a stock manifold that I have at the shop, sand blast it and hit it with 2000* paint so it doesn't look like crap going on the customers truck. I just think it looks like garbage to put a nice shiny turbo on an old rust manifold when it takes 10 mintues to blast it and paint it.
Here's the difference. These are both stock manifolds, but we blast and paint the OEM manifold when installing the new turbo. Look at this next picture and you see bolts to remove the exhaust flange.
#7
Here's the actual piece you need to connect a 4" exhaust.
http://atsdiesel.com/ats2/productdet...urbo_Kit_Parts
You'll need that and an HX40 down pipe and you'll be in business.
Let me know if you want to go with it and we'll get you taken care of.
http://atsdiesel.com/ats2/productdet...urbo_Kit_Parts
You'll need that and an HX40 down pipe and you'll be in business.
Let me know if you want to go with it and we'll get you taken care of.
Trending Topics
#8
thanks that helps alot. i knew i needed to change that around when i got it but i just put it on and ran wasnt extremly happy with the turbo to be honest. later on down the round im gonna run an s300 and s400 compound setup as soon as a graduate college. then some ddp injectors gonna stack my edge with a smarty again and fire rings and arp studs. all it takes is money lol. thanks for all the help i bookmarked your shop when i get ready to order it i will give ya a call and go from their. btw nice work on your common rail. dads got a common rail i straight piped his two days ago and today i took the silencer ring out and took the baffles out of the intake sounds so much better now. tryin to get him to go with a tst box or edge with attitude.