I couldn't find to many threads that answered my question completely.

I'm looking to purchase a 2010 3500 6.7L with a 6-speed manual.

I'm wondering what your opinions are on the 6.7, only those who own them please, that way we don't get too off topic.

Background: I don't haul or pull anything but occasionally I have been called to. I will be getting a crew cab so me and my buddies can ride around when we go out of town. I want a dually mainly because I like that wide A$$ if you know what I mean. If it's not worth the loss in MPG between the SRW and the DRW then i'll just go with the SRW. Just let me know what you guys think.

-Ethan

 

I don't own one (yet) but for the sake of the discussion IMO you hardly ask any question rather look for the opinions and there are plenty of those here. Seems to me that you're set on 2010 model and 6.7 it uses is a well proven engine. As such you are good to go. Most of "interesting" discussion is usually when looking for a used model and a choice of 5.9 or 6.7. But that's a totally different circumstances.

Speaking of 2010 model, I would like to know opinions which transmission (manual or new AT) is the better choice. what are the pros and cons. thanks

 

I hate automatics I really really hate dodge automatics and prefer a standard transmisson 10 times out of 10.

For towing a automtic is better, torque converter, transmisson fluid are better at handeling low speed back ups, slow speed take offs, the whight of the truck + load is all dispersed on the clutch, pressure plate.

Its a question of driver prferance, with a manual your in better control but you have to be more envolved in watching and observing traffic conditions, in the envent of a sudden panic stop, you can be screwd in a manaul transmisson, where as with a automtic, all you do is hit the brakes.

I have never had a issue towing with my hemi 6 speed, with the ctd 1 and 2 to 3rd are geared verry low, no issues with power but a 6speed is not a sports car, the 6speed manual is geared really low.

Coasting saves flue with a manual transmisson but do not do it when towing, if you want to sit back and not really worry a automatic is great, But I will take a 6speed man trans.

 

I just bought my 2010 Ram 3500 4x4 crew cab friday the 31st with the 6.7 ctd and the automatic and absolutly love it.

I traded in my 2007 5.9 manual 6 speed for this one. I love the power of the 6.7. This truck with the auto tranny will haul butt. The trans shifts so smooth that you can't even tell it shifted at all. I hauled a 16 ft flat bed trailer with 3 atv's on it saturday and couldn't even tell it was back there.

The ride is seriously like a cadillac and no noise at all. A V8 truck is louder then my diesel is. Trust me and get the automatic with the 6.7, you will love it and the power. Plus mine still has the mode on the shifter to make it a manual if I want too. But I love this new automatic.

 

I have a 2008 3500 Mega DRW and the first 20K miles the truck was in the shop 6 times with turbo issues stemming from the EGR system. The DPF finally fell off with the help of a wrench and has not been back to the dealer 20K miles later. These trucks were not designed to be a daily driver and if you’re not pushing them they tend to have emission issues i.e. clogged turbos and egr’s.

The ECM on the 2010’s are locked and I only know of 1 manufacturer that has a cracked the locked ECM. The 6.7 is a beast with a programmer and exhaust system over stock. When I modded mine it was like getting a completely different truck and I could never go back to a stock 6.7 A nice benefit to the programming and deletes is an increase in fuel mileage by 1-3MPG

The auto transmissions are weak and will not hold (for long) any additional power above stock. I burnt up my overdrive clutch packs at 30K miles and I'm waiting for proven aftermarket transmissions to be built for the 68RFE. In the meantime I'm biding my time with a custom TCM tune which adds line pressure, changes shift points and firmness to help extend the inevitable blown 5th & 6th gear.

#5 & #6 cylinders run a lot hotter than the old 5.9 due to the emission crap.

Turbo’s too small.

If I had it to do over again I would have opted for the SRW for mileage but there’s something about the DRW that I love and the deal I got I couldn’t pass up. My mileage still sucks compared to my old 5.9 but I believe they have picked up some since 08. I do know the primary reason I modded my truck was the crap mileage especially while towing, I was getting 9MPG towing a 3,500lbs boat and just about crapped 250 miles into a trip when my fuel light came on. The day I got back I had all the goodies waiting for me and I haven’t looked back. I’m now getting 14.5MPG towing the same boat on the same trip! All MPG are hand calc.

Hell just get the DRW, there bad *** and you’ll only give up a little mileage.

 

the 2010's do not have the same automatic tranny as the 08's did.

 

I test drove a 2010 today. SRW TRX. I gotta say I'm in love man.

I'm definitely going to have them custom build me one. Im going to go with the ST 3500 DRW with a 6-speed manual transmission (I may change my mind and go with the Auto). The day I buy it is the day I'm buying a programmer, putting an EGR delete system in, and DPF delete exhaust on, it's a turbo-back 5" straight pipe. There's a site in my Diesel Power magazine that sell EGR delete kits so that you can take off the EGR system and keep it incase you need to take your truck in for service, you can put the old equipment back on and the dealership wont know you took it off, same goes with the exhaust. I'll keep my DPF and everything else so that I can throw it on if I need to take it back to the dealership.

The truck I test drove was really nice, and rode better than A Caddy. Only thing is, it was in the process of a DPF Regeneration cycle, so it kept over fueling the engine while i was going through traffic. I really like the 6.7 Cummins though, even with the DPF it said our average MPG was 16.7. Of course that's coming from the computer.

By the way, my truck will be Omaha Orange, I love that color

 

also, whats the best recommended way to install an EGT gauge? Mine will be pre-turbo, I was wondering if itd be best to just take the turbo off, turn on the engine and make sure theres no metal shavings that can harm the turbo.

 

Someone once wrote that a diesel engine needs to be “worked” to continue to run properly. If you just drive it casually it can be “finicky” (or maybe flaky).
Does anyone else share that viewpoint; if so, what is the technical basis for that?

-John

 

I don't haul anything on a regular basis. Every other month I have to haul a car trailer with a 7000 lb bobcat 30 miles and thats about it.