Stuck in first gear.
#11
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Thanks for the offer, but I picked up your post a little late to take you up on it. I called the local dealer first thing this morning, they had both pieces, so I went ahead and got them. Hope to install them in the next day or so. Will post the outcome.
#12
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then that's your baby.
It's for all the re transmission.
Best thing to do though is get the governor pressure tested.
It should be no higher than 3 psi in drive and not moving.
It should smoothly rise approx 1 psi for every mph increase in speed.
If it's anything other than that, it's the gov solenoid or pressure sensor.
It's for all the re transmission.
Best thing to do though is get the governor pressure tested.
It should be no higher than 3 psi in drive and not moving.
It should smoothly rise approx 1 psi for every mph increase in speed.
If it's anything other than that, it's the gov solenoid or pressure sensor.
Man i'm loving this site! You get real answers from real people who are not just trying to rip you off.
#13
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You need a 100 psi pressure guage with a good section of hose and a 1/8 NPT fitting on the end.
The governor pressure port is on the passenger side of the trans and is the farthest up and farthest back on the main trans housing.
It's just a 1/8 NPT pipe plug. Take the plug out, screw the pressure gauge in and start the vehicle.
With it in drive, you should see no higher than 3 psi.
Don't spin the wheels up higher than 30 MPH or so with them off the ground unless you have it on some good sturdy jack stands.
You should see it shift to 2nd gear around 28 psi and 28 MPH.
The governor pressure port is on the passenger side of the trans and is the farthest up and farthest back on the main trans housing.
It's just a 1/8 NPT pipe plug. Take the plug out, screw the pressure gauge in and start the vehicle.
With it in drive, you should see no higher than 3 psi.
Don't spin the wheels up higher than 30 MPH or so with them off the ground unless you have it on some good sturdy jack stands.
You should see it shift to 2nd gear around 28 psi and 28 MPH.
#15
#17
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The next thing that causes the shifts to get all F'd up is usually a broken snap ring or wave ring.
That's normally what we find in the pan if it's not the solenoid or pressure sensor.
The only other things that would be causing that either the 1-2 shift valve is sticking or the second servo is leaking.
What you need to do is test the pressure. If you don't have a set of 100 psi and 300 psi guages, the easiest thing to do is bring it to the dealer and have them hook it to the DRBIII or the StarScan and see what the pressures are during operation.
You need to see the governor pressure, the line pressure and the accumulator pressure.
The governor pressure should be roughly equal to indicated MPH and no higher than 3 psi while in drive and not moving.
The line pressure will vary but should be approx 28 psi when it shifts to 2nd gear and 58 psi when it shifts to 3rd. 4th gear is around 95 psi and TC lockup occurs around 95 - 135 psi.
The accumulator pressure should roughly match the line pressure, within a few psi.
That's normally what we find in the pan if it's not the solenoid or pressure sensor.
The only other things that would be causing that either the 1-2 shift valve is sticking or the second servo is leaking.
What you need to do is test the pressure. If you don't have a set of 100 psi and 300 psi guages, the easiest thing to do is bring it to the dealer and have them hook it to the DRBIII or the StarScan and see what the pressures are during operation.
You need to see the governor pressure, the line pressure and the accumulator pressure.
The governor pressure should be roughly equal to indicated MPH and no higher than 3 psi while in drive and not moving.
The line pressure will vary but should be approx 28 psi when it shifts to 2nd gear and 58 psi when it shifts to 3rd. 4th gear is around 95 psi and TC lockup occurs around 95 - 135 psi.
The accumulator pressure should roughly match the line pressure, within a few psi.
#18
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Not sure if this will mean anything, but per other help on the subject, some quick key strokes and code P-0720 came up. Now that may have something to do with the ABS light that is on, but maybe not. Then it said P-done. Went for a test drive and the same, first gear only. Now I've disconnected the batterys in hopes that maybe the computer might reset, we'll see.
#19