Thanks for the offer, but I picked up your post a little late to take you up on it. I called the local dealer first thing this morning, they had both pieces, so I went ahead and got them. Hope to install them in the next day or so. Will post the outcome.

 

thats good news i think! How do i get it tested? How i test it? Is there a special tool i'll have to buy?

Man i'm loving this site! You get real answers from real people who are not just trying to rip you off.

 

You need a 100 psi pressure guage with a good section of hose and a 1/8 NPT fitting on the end.

The governor pressure port is on the passenger side of the trans and is the farthest up and farthest back on the main trans housing.

It's just a 1/8 NPT pipe plug. Take the plug out, screw the pressure gauge in and start the vehicle.

With it in drive, you should see no higher than 3 psi.

Don't spin the wheels up higher than 30 MPH or so with them off the ground unless you have it on some good sturdy jack stands.

You should see it shift to 2nd gear around 28 psi and 28 MPH.

 

Replaced both sensors, and still in first gear. What might be next?

 

Did you notice anything in the pan when you pulled it?

If there is nothing in the pan, my next guess is gonna be something in the valve body is either stuck or broken.

 

The magnet had some build-up around it, but for the most part I thought it looked rather clean. Guess I'll have to dig a little deeper.

 

The next thing that causes the shifts to get all F'd up is usually a broken snap ring or wave ring.

That's normally what we find in the pan if it's not the solenoid or pressure sensor.

The only other things that would be causing that either the 1-2 shift valve is sticking or the second servo is leaking.

What you need to do is test the pressure. If you don't have a set of 100 psi and 300 psi guages, the easiest thing to do is bring it to the dealer and have them hook it to the DRBIII or the StarScan and see what the pressures are during operation.

You need to see the governor pressure, the line pressure and the accumulator pressure.

The governor pressure should be roughly equal to indicated MPH and no higher than 3 psi while in drive and not moving.

The line pressure will vary but should be approx 28 psi when it shifts to 2nd gear and 58 psi when it shifts to 3rd. 4th gear is around 95 psi and TC lockup occurs around 95 - 135 psi.

The accumulator pressure should roughly match the line pressure, within a few psi.

 

Not sure if this will mean anything, but per other help on the subject, some quick key strokes and code P-0720 came up. Now that may have something to do with the ABS light that is on, but maybe not. Then it said P-done. Went for a test drive and the same, first gear only. Now I've disconnected the batterys in hopes that maybe the computer might reset, we'll see.

 

Well unhooking the batterys didn't help ether, but I did notice this time that shifting through the gears that there was what felt like a down shift from 2nd to 1st, but never felt it upshift.?.?.?

 

Okay, that code is part of your problem.

That is the output shaft speed sensor.

That will definitely effect shifting.