hello I have a 2004 CTD. with 1700 miles on it. and I was leaving for work last night and noticed the alternator surges. the dash lights dim down a little then get really brite over and over again. didn't seam to notice wile driving but defently at idle. also here a click just before they light back up. I do have two bateries would that cause this? my amp gauge seams to bounce also at the same time from 12v to 14. but wile driving amp gauge stays at 14. Any info would help.. thanks

(ps) if DREW reads this. How did the additive test go? do you have a K&N filter? and if so did you notice a increase in milage? my truck is stock (minus silncer ring) I don't need any more power but milage would be good. I was entering the freeway yesterday dry pavement doing 30mph I punched her down and we went sideways was great. my brother was with and he just went "Holy ****, thats not rite, this trucks way to big to be this fast"[8D] love it.
Later

 

Nice to see another CTD here. I don't know too much about alternators but you definately don't want an K&N on a CTD. They let in a lot mord dirt than the factory filter will. Are you getting any codes from your alternator? You might want to check out the forums for diesel trucks. Dieseltruckresorce.com and dieselram.com are a couple that I belong to. There's also Turbodieselresource.com but it costs $35/yr to join.

 

Sounds like a regulation problem to me. I'd say take it back to the dealer, since it is under warranty. May or may not be related to dual batteries, if not an OEM install.

Btw, the gauge measures volts, not amps, hence, it's a "Volt" gauge not an amp guage. Amp gauges went by the wayside in part because the entire vehicle amperage had to be directed through them to get an accurate measure. With the need for ever increasingly powerful electrical systems this was rather risky in terms of shorts, etc.

All the best.

 

Avanti has it right, the regulator is on the blink.

BTW, I'm still in the testing phase with my mad scientist mixes having some interesting positive results.

I'll be posting them as soon as I can get some time.

oh, I'm also a member over at Turbo desiel register, it is a very good $35 bucks to spend but I also still come here.

 

ah the regulator I'll bring it in then. how do they test it? becouse most times when I tell them whats wong and fix it they go" huh the what?" thanks for the help. DREW do you use additive in the oil to make it smell nice? my truck stinks at idle and dealer says its becouse the crankcase breather on the ctd will normally vent the oil vapor out. is that true or just dealer b.s. I asked them to relocate the breather tube down the frame rail they said they would not untill dodge sends a recall out. thanks for the help guys.

 

they test it by stressing the alternator, putting it under a load. all you need to tell them is that the voltage needle is wacked, they know what to do from there.

it could be the regulator that is going, or it could be the sensor thats acting up.

now, about the oil smell, I change my own oil, the factory oil did have quite an odor. my last oil change I put in some Mobil Delvac 1300 and the odor is gone. however, if you want an oil that smells worse try some Rotella T[:'(] but it sure is some good stuff. but yes, oil vapor is vented out the breather

the Mobil Delvac I run is certified for the Cummins engine, and I'm finding out that I can run about 10,000 before the soot gets bad. I should do oil analysis since some people I'm reading about are going as far as 20k on the oil or more.

but when it comes to helping your engine out and your doing the oil changes yourself, the filter makes a difference. Fleetguard is actualy a company that is owned by Cummins and they make the filter that Mopar uses when the dealership changes your oil, it's just remarked. if you change your own oil stay away from Fram filters, they cannot handle the pressures generated by the oil pump and tend to blow on the Cummins.