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Head Gasket HELP!

Old May 7, 2011 | 10:27 PM
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Default Head Gasket HELP!

I have taken on the task of replacing the head gasket on a buddy's 93 12V (manual) tomorrow. Im a young Ford tech (NOT a Ford guy), and havent done any work this deep yet. I've printed and overlooked the procedures, it seems as easy as disconnecting anything connected to the head holding it to anything else on the truck. Im just wondering if anyone that has done this has any advice or tricks on getting this done. do I really need to pull the exhaust manifold? Injectors? Inj pump?
Im replacing it because he overheated it while mudding...in the middle of a pond, so I also will be looking to make sure he doesnt need a head or block, what should i look for besides the obvious?
thanks in advance.
 
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Old May 9, 2011 | 09:23 PM
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Do you have a cherry picker?

That head is heavy.
Alldata shows it being about a 10 hour job, depending on options.

As far as removing the exhaust manifold - yeah, unless you're pulling the turbo and exhaust out with the head, then yes it needs to get removed. You're going to take the head to a straight edge and check for warpage right?

I'm a Subaru tech for a reason... it's mostly easy stuff. I don't really want to ever take the head off my Ram.
 
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Old May 24, 2011 | 12:33 AM
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Well, Ive got the job done....mostly. I put the truck back together with a reworked head, (replaced old one w used one that wasnt cracked to smithereens), adjusted valves, hooked up the jumper cables, and let it charge for a while. I went out and tried to get her started, and it would crank a little at a time (I have a feeling this battery is no good to begin with), but I noticed it started cranking kinda different, choppy cranks instead of the smooth turn expected, and slow, even after a considerable amount of charging. I did not allow the truck to crank like this for long at all because i didnt like the way it feels, but now the thing wont turn or even act like it wants to turn at all. voltage is drawn, but no crank. I swapped the battery for a known good with the same result. the starter is brand new, and I KNOW i didnt crank it near enough to burn it up. there is oil in it, but there was coolant in the oil from the blown gasket/head. WHAT IS THE DEAL?!?!?!?!
 
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Old May 24, 2011 | 10:52 AM
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Are you sure you got the valve adjustment and timing right? I would double check it ..Sounds to me like to much resistance for the starter...just a guess
 
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Old May 24, 2011 | 11:08 AM
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being as you are new to going this deep as you said i would reread your procedure making sure that you have compression stroke and so on double checking each move ..
 
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Old May 24, 2011 | 12:36 PM
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Thanks. When I did the valves, I turned the engine until the valves I wasn't adjusting were moving because I know if those are opening, the other must be closed, I didnt know about the lil timing pin until about 5 minutes ago, so I will do them again tonight. the battery tested good, so if it still doesnt crank but I can turn it by hand I will just pull start it and take care of the starter once I know the engine is in running condition
 
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Old May 25, 2011 | 10:06 AM
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Okay, a little update... Hammered the starter, now its as good as new. But I'm not getting any fuel to injection pump, I plan to fill filter tonight w atf and see where that gets me. Apparently the lift pump had a little leak before I started this job, but the engine had been washed whem I got it. Whats the best way to check the lift pump on this truck? And when I'm bleeding the injectors, how much fuel/foam will I get while cranking when theres enough fuel to open injector?
Thanks
 
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Old May 26, 2011 | 02:10 AM
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Is it a stock lift pump?
 
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Old May 26, 2011 | 02:38 PM
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It wasn't aftermarket, but I'm not sure if it had been replaced. I, put a new one on yesterday and she fired right up. The old one must have been jusy healthy enough to run it, but w the air in the system, just didnt have the guts
 
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