hard start when warm
I forgot to say last mechanic found tubes on injectors loose and tightened and then next time loose again so he replaced them and the o-rings. That was the last thing he did and now is leaning toward injectors.
Oh and runs great once started but does have 240,000 miles on it. The plot thickens!!!
Oh and runs great once started but does have 240,000 miles on it. The plot thickens!!!
I am sorry YOU are having this issue too. As for the leaky lines -- it did NOT leak fuel -- they were microscopic almost and only leaked pressure. So no, I did not see a fuel residue anywhere. If you need injectors then have them tested -- don't just have your mechanic replace the whole set. If you were made of money -- then all six is ideal, but you sound like that would be too much -- it would be for me!! I was $3K into mine too before we found the leaky lines too. Tonight when I get home, I will look over the whole invoice and list what he did for me. But it was leaky lines and an adjustment to the pressure relief valve -- which comes adjusted from the factory and most think it is NOT adjustable when it is....
Interestingly enough - it turned out to be my starter.
It would crank real fast the first time in the morning and then after that.. It was a hard start.
I replaced the starter and not a lick of trouble (so far).
It would crank real fast the first time in the morning and then after that.. It was a hard start.
I replaced the starter and not a lick of trouble (so far).
We have 2 - 03 Dodge Diesels in the family and both are very hard starters. 1st there is my fathers. his kept getting a longer cranking time to start thru a time period of 3 months until it just up and wouldnt start one day. Crank, crank, crank but no start but his lift pump would run while trying. He had my brother tow it home and the next morning he went out and tryed to start it and it started right up. He took it to Dodge dealer. tHey tested everything and said that nothing was wrong. Been starting ever since but with long crank time yet.
My husband and myself own a 03 also and it started getting a long crank start up time also. In July it seemed like it was surging while driving. It then wouldnt start one morning. No lift pump noise. We had it towed to repair shop and he tested lift pump and it was dead. He installed new lift pump and it started great for the 1st month, then it progressed into a longer crank time. Now there are mornings that we wonder if its gonna start at all. it seems to start better, but still long crank time when its warm. One morning while cranking, the lift pump made a weird noise. THis pump is only 3 months old is all. A Napa brand pump. The truck is going in to shop for a pressure test on lift pump. After reading this post, we will have mechanic test the rail pressure also.
Question:.......both of these trucks have Edge programers in them. Does or will this make any difference? One is ran on program #1 and ours is ran on program #2. Wouldnt think these would be the cause of these problems but just wondering. Nobody in this post has said whether they have programers or not. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
My husband and myself own a 03 also and it started getting a long crank start up time also. In July it seemed like it was surging while driving. It then wouldnt start one morning. No lift pump noise. We had it towed to repair shop and he tested lift pump and it was dead. He installed new lift pump and it started great for the 1st month, then it progressed into a longer crank time. Now there are mornings that we wonder if its gonna start at all. it seems to start better, but still long crank time when its warm. One morning while cranking, the lift pump made a weird noise. THis pump is only 3 months old is all. A Napa brand pump. The truck is going in to shop for a pressure test on lift pump. After reading this post, we will have mechanic test the rail pressure also.
Question:.......both of these trucks have Edge programers in them. Does or will this make any difference? One is ran on program #1 and ours is ran on program #2. Wouldnt think these would be the cause of these problems but just wondering. Nobody in this post has said whether they have programers or not. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Well as you have probably read there are myriad things it can be. Like I said on mine, we put in new lift pump, new injector pump and two new injectors and none fixed the problem --- BUT any of them could have BEEN the problem. You have a pressure leak somewhere though! If you can afford to, get your injectors tested.
Often when one of these beasts has a micro leak it starts when it is cold because the metal where ever the leak is has contracted and the micro hole is closed by that contraction. Then when the metal heats up and expands so does the hole. You will not be able to SEE the leak -- it is so small. Be very very careful trouble shooting it at home. The pressure IS SO HIGH in these things that if you are "feeling" around with your hands to find say a fuel feeder line leak -- and you find it -- that fuel works like a freakin' high pressure cutter and can easily cut your finger off, get fuel into your bloodstream and KILL you.
I came up with the idea of getting a long mirror -- the kind mechanics use to look around engines (looks like a giant version of what the dentist uses in your mouth) and putting either a square of white cloth over the mirror or a square of brown paper (like from a shopping bag) and move the "wand" carefully up and down each fuel line. After each pass look at your paper/cloth. If it has fuel spray on it -- then you found your leak.
If you read through this thread you will find what black smoke means and what white smoke means. Look for either in both trucks -- hey at least it is a visible symptom! Watch for black smoke coming from your exhaust.
DieselFreak says: white smoke is fuel-related, whether due to bad nozzles, weak injection pump, cold weather, or air in the system when bleeding. The white smoke is vaporized fuel.
Black smoke is partially burnt fuel which occurs when there is far too much fuel for the amount of air being pushed in. This can be a sign of injectors that are leaking excess fuel into the system.
Good luck!
Often when one of these beasts has a micro leak it starts when it is cold because the metal where ever the leak is has contracted and the micro hole is closed by that contraction. Then when the metal heats up and expands so does the hole. You will not be able to SEE the leak -- it is so small. Be very very careful trouble shooting it at home. The pressure IS SO HIGH in these things that if you are "feeling" around with your hands to find say a fuel feeder line leak -- and you find it -- that fuel works like a freakin' high pressure cutter and can easily cut your finger off, get fuel into your bloodstream and KILL you.
I came up with the idea of getting a long mirror -- the kind mechanics use to look around engines (looks like a giant version of what the dentist uses in your mouth) and putting either a square of white cloth over the mirror or a square of brown paper (like from a shopping bag) and move the "wand" carefully up and down each fuel line. After each pass look at your paper/cloth. If it has fuel spray on it -- then you found your leak.
If you read through this thread you will find what black smoke means and what white smoke means. Look for either in both trucks -- hey at least it is a visible symptom! Watch for black smoke coming from your exhaust.
DieselFreak says: white smoke is fuel-related, whether due to bad nozzles, weak injection pump, cold weather, or air in the system when bleeding. The white smoke is vaporized fuel.
Black smoke is partially burnt fuel which occurs when there is far too much fuel for the amount of air being pushed in. This can be a sign of injectors that are leaking excess fuel into the system.
Good luck!
Hi There -
What I do remember is that it was the fuel line to injector #4. I replaced the injection pump, two injectors and I think the internal pressure valve and it was NONE of those things. I have heard that the #4 is the most common culprit because of the severe bend in it (at least on my engine). DO NOT use your hands to find the leak (I am sure you know that). The pressure is so high coming from these motors that it can cut off a finger or get fuel into your bloodstream. That is why you can test it with a long mirror with a white cloth or brown paper on it. I got a second leak only weeks later and that was probably due to all of the on and off those lines went through during the trouble shooting. The truck has run like a champ ever since. It has 225K miles on it and has the original batteries so that tells you it doesn't work too hard trying to start! I will dig out all the paperwork on it -- but it is at my office and I don't think I will be in the office until Monday. If there is anymore information that can provide I will post it.
Good luck!
Kyle
What I do remember is that it was the fuel line to injector #4. I replaced the injection pump, two injectors and I think the internal pressure valve and it was NONE of those things. I have heard that the #4 is the most common culprit because of the severe bend in it (at least on my engine). DO NOT use your hands to find the leak (I am sure you know that). The pressure is so high coming from these motors that it can cut off a finger or get fuel into your bloodstream. That is why you can test it with a long mirror with a white cloth or brown paper on it. I got a second leak only weeks later and that was probably due to all of the on and off those lines went through during the trouble shooting. The truck has run like a champ ever since. It has 225K miles on it and has the original batteries so that tells you it doesn't work too hard trying to start! I will dig out all the paperwork on it -- but it is at my office and I don't think I will be in the office until Monday. If there is anymore information that can provide I will post it.
Good luck!
Kyle




