I Had tons of fun driving my v10 ram years ago but sold it because my fuel costs were astronomical, I actually saved money by buying a Jeep rubicon and driving that, even with the payments.

I need a truck to pull 8000 pounds, not a daily driver but needs to be reliable, and I thought hey, I like driving a ram, let's get me a 4x4 4 door or easy access rear diesel ram with a manual transmission

I really wanted a pre 98, but for 2 months I have not seen any in good condition around here within 200 miles. I'm tempted to give up and buy new or just a few years old, but I'm not crazy about the looks and I have heard crappy mileage out of the 6.9s. Now my friend is trying to unload a 03 2500 on me with 160,000 miles that's automatic, but the price is too good to not consider even though I wanted a manual transmission

What do you guys think, I hate buying new because I'm not rich, but it should be more reliable, less repairs, and if I go brand new I get color and options exactly as I want

5-12 years old I love the style, since it's not going to be hotrodded it should live long even with 160 othe clock. I was looking into the 12v conversion, I don't know if I could justify the extras

Pre 98 12v are hard to find with decent mileage and since the roads are excessively salted in m area I doubt I can find a good one unless I go to Texas, 3000 mies away.

Are the 6.7 basically a 24v with more cubes or a entirely new beast? Does the 12v need a computer to run, or converted to run without? The new ones really as bad on gas as I'm hearing?

I have been reading diesel ram for 5 weeks now and I feel like my brain is going to blow up if keep this up, feels like cramming for a final exam

 

Im considering a new 6.7ctd crew cab with a 6sp man (every year i go threw this) to replace my my reg cab hemi 2500 6sp man.

6.7 CTD are rated less in foot lbs of torque, 610 for 6 spman vers 800 for the automatic, I have no issues running a 6sp manwith 350 horse for my control issues, but the more I read up on the 6.7, or ask the verry question your asking, I end up with more questions.

Milage numbers on the 6.7 are not outsatnding, clogged egr and dpf issues are rampet on the early versions of thease trucks, diesel particulants are reingested into the engine to burn again, or thier cocked inside a a cooker(dpf) in the ex system to clean up emissons.

Ford and Duramax are pumping more hp and tourqe numbers from their V/8 but they need urea...

I don't like how low gm HD trucks sit and thiers this black box thing under the passenger seat frame area that I beleave holds a urea tank thats going to get knocked silly the first time a GM gos off road.

My concerns with the 6.7 CTD are, milage numbers, how often egr needs to be cleaned as well as the dpf, when the CTD goes into regen mode ( burning off particulets) is using raw diesel flue to ignite the nasty gas's trapped inside filters....

a CTD 5.9 seems to be the engine of choice... Cummins own web site claims 40% of the 5.9 CTD is retained in the new 6.7, as for what parts im not sure.

 

2006 5.9 CTD 305 hp at 2900rpm
555 foot pounds at 1400 rpm

2011 CTD 350 hp at at 3000rpm
650 foot pounds at 1500 rpm (with a man trans)

in compariosn, my 06 hemi is rated at 345 hp at 5400rpm
375 foot pounds at 4200 rpm

2011 hemi(2500) 383 hp at 5600
400 foot pounds at 4000 rpm

I pulled this off the net.

So acording to paper facts, the 6.7 gained 45 hp and 90 foot pounds for a 6sp man transmisson, 800 foot pounds for the automatic.

 

I take it you are trying to avoid the 98.5-2002 24v years?? they are every bit as reliable as the 12v's with a couple very minor modifications...fuel pressure gauge, and a good lift pump. my truck has 226k miles on it and the engine purrs like a kitten. of course it has its problems...had to replace damn near the whole front end cause dodge steering sucks. And there have been other minor issues. but engine itself has been extremely reliable. never fails me and never leaves me stranded. its had a head gasket go, and its ripped the insides of the transmission apart due to my mods and a very aggressive fueling tune, but she still limped home!

as far as miles...200k is nothing for a cummins engine. thats just breaking it in! might get a few leaks needs fixin or engine accessories that need replaced, but the engine itself is just fine. quite a few 2nd gen 12vs and 2nd gen 24v's running around with over 1.3 million miles on them, and they are STILL running strong with no rebuilds or major failures. maintain them and they will outlive the truck they are in easily.

 

I was trying to stay away from computer controls. I was under the impression the 24v will not run withou a computer

 

i was under the impression you were buying a whole truck?

do you plan on doing a conversion?

the 12V's don't need a computer. its all mechanical. 24v's can be converted to all mechanical and run the same injection pump as the 12v if desired.

if you are getting a complete truck, I don't see what the problem is? You can get a 24V with 4 wheel disc brakes and a 6-spd manual if you go with a late 01 model...

or 99.5-02 had 6-spd option for manual trans. 01.5 is where 4wheel disk brakes started. 99.5-00.5 had the small shaft 6-spd with the standard output injection pump, 01-02 had the large shaft 6-spd with the high output injection pump.

difference between the pumps: factory vs factory +10hp for HO...but add injectors, turbos and fueling boxes: standard output is capable of fueling to 100hp more than the high output is making the standard output a better pump.

if your lucky you can find a truck like mine or late model that has been converted...my original 6-spd broke, so I replaced it with a large shaft 6-spd and had south bend change my clutch hubs to fit it. or you might find a later model truck that came with the large shaft 6-spd and the vp44 died and owner replaced with a standard output vp44... possible to find, but if that was done, the truck was likely tuned before with at least a fueling box.

 

I am looking for a complete truck, I work with computers nd when I come home I don't want to work. With one, even in a car if I could avoid it. If the 12v injection stuff is easy to put on a 24 v then I would rather do that an look for an. .01+

The conversion, sounds pricy and time consuming, or can it be done in a day or a grand?

 

i would do some reading on the cummins forum...all depends on if you have doner parts or if you need to buy them all...its like $3k in parts to buy them. or take them off a doner truck..

cumminsforum has a whole sub-forum section dedicated to 24v p-pump conversion.

 

I do prefer the computer control just for the fact that I can change my power and timing on the fly with the push of a button. and all of the gauges the computer monitors that display on my pulse monitor is nice.

 

Dont get me wrong, I live computer controlled, but I want something with the least amount of parts to worry about, less parts for mice to chew through. I only want a manual so I can get it use started if the battery dries after sitting fora while at the cabin