ABS light and brake light??
I have a 2005 2500 4x4 and everytime I turn my wheels to the left sharply my brake pedal goes to the floor and I have no brakes! I have been told its either my abs sensor or my wheel speed sensor, I want to make sure which one it is before I buy the part. Any help would be greatly appriciated!!
I have a 2005 2500 4x4 and everytime I turn my wheels to the left sharply my brake pedal goes to the floor and I have no brakes! I have been told its either my abs sensor or my wheel speed sensor, I want to make sure which one it is before I buy the part. Any help would be greatly appriciated!!
Why don't you get it diagnosed before throwing parts at it? You don't even know what the codes are.
Last edited by TNtech; Jul 28, 2013 at 03:11 AM.
Just because something is brand new doesn't mean that it wasn't bad right out of the box or damaged while installed or after.
Has this problem existed since before the wheel bearings were replaced?
If it's a wheel speed sensor, I would expect the sensor to read incorrectly while driving straight and while turning both directions.
Has this problem existed since before the wheel bearings were replaced?
If it's a wheel speed sensor, I would expect the sensor to read incorrectly while driving straight and while turning both directions.
Wtf...
Anyway check your brake fluid. Most cars are set up that when both those brake lights come on, indicates low fluid.
Anyway check your brake fluid. Most cars are set up that when both those brake lights come on, indicates low fluid.
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Are you post whoring for any particular reason?
Where do you suppose front wheel speed sensors are on most vehicles today? Where is the tone ring they read off of?
Take a look at this picture and you'll see.

That's a front hub bearing assembly. The wheel speed sensor reads a tone ring inside the assembly.
If the wheel bearing is bad and there is play, it's entirely possible that it is causing ABS sensor issues. If the wiring has too much resistance, it is entirely possible that it's causing issues as well.
Back to the OP though, what brand hub bearing assembly did you buy?
Funny enough, an SKF rep came into the shop today and gave a presentation regarding front wheel bearings. There are apparently 8 manufacturers globally that make ALL OEM wheel bearings, then there is a company in South Korea, and there are two in China. Moog are apparently Chinese these days. Timken is hit or miss - sometimes you get an OE supplier, sometimes you get crap. Timken tapered roller bearings are still top notch, however hub assemblies apparently all use ball bearings, and Timken doesn't make ball bearings.
Basically the cheap ones may or may not have grade 8 or equivalent lug studs. Their heat treating for the forged parts is very low quality. Their ball bearings may or may not be uniform in size - causing bad parts right out of the box. The wiring for the wheel speed sensors from the OE and top tier providers is usually 16 gauge copper stranded wire, whereas the Korean and Chinese brands use 18 or 20 gauge tin wire. And finally, their steel isn't virgin steel - it's dirty steel that gets melted down and has imperfections.
I work with this stuff every day, and I can assure you we've seen bad wheel bearings right out of the box. There is no quality control with cheap bearings. There's a reason they're cheap.
Where do you suppose front wheel speed sensors are on most vehicles today? Where is the tone ring they read off of?
Take a look at this picture and you'll see.
That's a front hub bearing assembly. The wheel speed sensor reads a tone ring inside the assembly.
If the wheel bearing is bad and there is play, it's entirely possible that it is causing ABS sensor issues. If the wiring has too much resistance, it is entirely possible that it's causing issues as well.
Back to the OP though, what brand hub bearing assembly did you buy?
Funny enough, an SKF rep came into the shop today and gave a presentation regarding front wheel bearings. There are apparently 8 manufacturers globally that make ALL OEM wheel bearings, then there is a company in South Korea, and there are two in China. Moog are apparently Chinese these days. Timken is hit or miss - sometimes you get an OE supplier, sometimes you get crap. Timken tapered roller bearings are still top notch, however hub assemblies apparently all use ball bearings, and Timken doesn't make ball bearings.
Basically the cheap ones may or may not have grade 8 or equivalent lug studs. Their heat treating for the forged parts is very low quality. Their ball bearings may or may not be uniform in size - causing bad parts right out of the box. The wiring for the wheel speed sensors from the OE and top tier providers is usually 16 gauge copper stranded wire, whereas the Korean and Chinese brands use 18 or 20 gauge tin wire. And finally, their steel isn't virgin steel - it's dirty steel that gets melted down and has imperfections.
I work with this stuff every day, and I can assure you we've seen bad wheel bearings right out of the box. There is no quality control with cheap bearings. There's a reason they're cheap.
my front hub bearing was going out and I was having the same symptoms, with the exception of the pedal going to the floor. abs and brake light were coming on kind of randomly, then all of a sudden one day i was driving and heard kind of a grinding noise...sounded like a brake pad with no pad left so I turned around and headed home because I knew it was a bad sound and about a mile later my hub bearing completely seized up on me. I would take it to a shop and have them check it out...it's pretty easy to tell if the hub bearing is going out, or if you are simply low on fluid.



