torque conv removal?
I would imagine it would be on just like any other auto tranny. remove the inspection cover and there should be between 6-8 bolts holding it to the flex plate. to get to each one you will have to turn the flexplate by hand, which means you are turning the engine and a good pry bar can do that. just make sure you dont mess up any teeth since the flex plate is also used with the starter to start the engine.
after you have the bolts out you will need to drop the drive shafts, undo any electrical and hydrolic lines, unbolt the tranny crossover member and then unbolt the tranny from the engine. just make sure you have the rear of the engine supported and a tranny jack under the trans before you unbolt the crossover.
once you have the trans out and on a good work surface the torque converter just pulls straight out and there you go.
I take it your going to be putting in a bittet TC
after you have the bolts out you will need to drop the drive shafts, undo any electrical and hydrolic lines, unbolt the tranny crossover member and then unbolt the tranny from the engine. just make sure you have the rear of the engine supported and a tranny jack under the trans before you unbolt the crossover.
once you have the trans out and on a good work surface the torque converter just pulls straight out and there you go.
I take it your going to be putting in a bittet TC
There is a small access hole in the motor bell housing on the passenger side to access the converter bolts. A little more than halfway up. If you need to know anything else just let me know. I did the tranny and torque in my dodge 10,000km ago.
Hey Drew, which billet TC do you recommend?? There a few different ones out there but I was wondering what to look for specifically? Also, I've heard that there will be a noticeable difference in performance in throttle response and acceleration....is this true? Right now I'm running a Banks Six Gun Bundle w/Speed Loader, 4.5" straight through exhaust (no cat), and an Airaid intake. I've never had it dyno tested, but I assume it is pushing the limits of that stock TC. Thanks in advance....
now thats a loaded question connor[8D]
first of all the stock TC wont last too much longer under the current conditions you have it at. and I would imagine it has already begun to swell a bit. But since you have that six gun you probably cant tell too much but take it away and you might be able to tell.
a new billet TC does give a VERY noticable increase in performance. the TC is capable of locking up sooner and stay locked longer as compared to stock. and depending on how tough you want it depends on how much HP you are wanting to put through it, and how much money you are willing to spend
.
Since both of my trucks are manuals I know a little more about my NV5600 and the W59 in my toyota than the auto's 48RE, but I do hear DTT, ATS and Schied Diesel to good work. and while your at it you might want to have the valve body tweaked.
check out schied deisel here and DTT here
first of all the stock TC wont last too much longer under the current conditions you have it at. and I would imagine it has already begun to swell a bit. But since you have that six gun you probably cant tell too much but take it away and you might be able to tell.
a new billet TC does give a VERY noticable increase in performance. the TC is capable of locking up sooner and stay locked longer as compared to stock. and depending on how tough you want it depends on how much HP you are wanting to put through it, and how much money you are willing to spend
.Since both of my trucks are manuals I know a little more about my NV5600 and the W59 in my toyota than the auto's 48RE, but I do hear DTT, ATS and Schied Diesel to good work. and while your at it you might want to have the valve body tweaked.
check out schied deisel here and DTT here



