Dodge/Ram Diesel Tech Discussions on all generations of Cummins Diesel powered Rams plus the new Eco Diesel

[Deleted]

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old May 11, 2006 | 05:43 PM
  #1  
Deleted User's Avatar
Deleted User
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 779
Likes: 0
Default [Deleted]

[Deleted by Admins]
 
Reply
Old May 11, 2006 | 07:30 PM
  #2  
DBLR's Avatar
DBLR
Record Breaker
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,497
Likes: 0
From: North Plains, Oregon
Default RE: Pyrometer mounting


I have not put one in mine yet but I would think it best to pull the manifold and then install it. It does not take many metal shavings to ruin a turbo so I would rather be safe then sorry. BTW, I have heard about someone who tried it with out removing the manifold and had to buy a new turbo.

Good Luck,
Charles
 
Reply
Old May 11, 2006 | 10:27 PM
  #3  
CUMMINS MAN's Avatar
CUMMINS MAN
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Default RE: Pyrometer mounting

I Did Not Pull Mine And It Was Easy Mounted It On Top Did Not Use Oil Or Grease To Avoid Smoke. I Did It Slow And Easy And Stoped So Often And Blew Off The Shavings. I Have Had It On For A Year And Still Pull Over 30 psi.
 
Reply
Old May 12, 2006 | 12:46 AM
  #4  
Deleted User's Avatar
Deleted User
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 779
Likes: 0
Default [Deleted]

[Deleted by Admins]
 
Reply
Old May 19, 2006 | 12:09 AM
  #5  
Blue600's Avatar
Blue600
Registered User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
From:
Default RE: Pyrometer mounting

I drilled and tapped mine then started the truck and idled it for a minute. No grease no removing the turbo. My truck has run since 8/04 doing it this way and I'm spiking 34psi stock. I did my Ford this way as well.
 
Reply
Old May 24, 2006 | 01:38 PM
  #6  
steve05ram360's Avatar
steve05ram360
Hall Of Fame
20 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 12,944
Likes: 308
Default RE: Pyrometer mounting

also a small vacuum hose near the drill bit/manifold area also works. that's how I did mine, I have no turbo problems... no wait... I frequently spike over 36psi if you want to call that a problem...
 
Reply
Old May 24, 2006 | 02:29 PM
  #7  
Drew's Avatar
Drew
Professional
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 117
Likes: 1
From: 33.43.342, 84.21.602
Default RE: Pyrometer mounting

steve, I seem to have the same problem

 
Reply
Old May 24, 2006 | 02:52 PM
  #8  
steve05ram360's Avatar
steve05ram360
Hall Of Fame
20 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 12,944
Likes: 308
Default RE: Pyrometer mounting

cool huh? getting squashed in your seat as the boost builds. 7000 lbs and all that torque & power... [sm=icon_rock.gif]
 
Reply
Old May 24, 2006 | 03:29 PM
  #9  
Drew's Avatar
Drew
Professional
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 117
Likes: 1
From: 33.43.342, 84.21.602
Default RE: Pyrometer mounting

the interesting thing is I can build more boost and peg the needle way past 35# in 5th gear. in 6th I can hit 35# on a hill, but no matter how fast I'm going, even at 85 and punch it I cannot build past 35# like I can in 5th. I can tell the boost comes on slower in 6th and that gives the waste gate time to react.

but I figured since the engine is loaded more in 6th than 5th that it would be the other way around. even my old freight shaker built boost acording to engine loading, but that was a fully mechanical engine, my 5.9 is electronic.


edit: and another thing is the way the computer runs the CP3 pump. since I'm still accelerating hard in 5th and the pressure is there it builds more boost, then when I hit 6th I'm not getting on the throttle as hard, engine isnt turning as many RPM's and the computer limits the CP3 so if you realy need to get up and go, the pressure has to build first in the rail.
 
Reply




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:23 PM.