Hi, I'm looking at a 1997 3500 diesel, stick, 2wd, pickup with 43k on it. This is my first diesel so any hints on what I shoul look for, known issues, ect. I will have a shop check prior to purchase, but the shop will be an unknown to me as the truck is two hours away...Any hints from you seasoned diesel owners is appreciated...

 

Check out your last thread: https://dodgeforum.com/m_464717/mpag.../tm.htm#464717

The 12 valve diesel was a solid motor. And only having 43k on it, it's barely broken in [8D]

 

there is a block code of "53" IIRC that has been cracking under certain conditions. I believe it's the 24 valve motor in the 2nd gens. do a searh for the 53 block & cummins and you should find it. the lift pumps in those years also sucks. they failed at a higher rate than the previous 12 valve setup. If it's a 12 valve setup, go for it. you may need an additive for added lubrication since the diesel #2 is going to a low sulfer content version soon (it's here in CA already).

 

steve, the electric lift pumps werent installed untill 98.5 when the head went to 24 valve

the 53 block also doesnt come into play untill that time as well. not trying to knock ya, just letting you know

anyway, 97 12 valve, 47K on it. . .I wouldnt think twice. I know guys with 06's that have well over 100K

 

yeah, I wasnt 100% sure when they made the switch to the 24 valve motor... That is when the "53" block had it's issues isnt it?

from what I read, the block can be fixed if it is cracked, I found a writeup on it once. pretty interesting how they fix it.

Drew, do the older 12v motors still need the added lubrication now that we're being forced into the ULSD fuel? Or is that only geared towards the vp44 pump?

 

it is mainly geared tward the VP44 pump since the way it pressureizes the fuel is a vane style pump that can quickly burn up and wear out if not lubricated properly. however, the plungers of the P7100, oiled by the engine oil, could use the extra top end lubrication as a safety measure. the CP3, which uses a geared hub and plunger type system to pressureize the fuel doesnt need it, but as you and many others have found, the engine runs smoother when used.

I have seen the 'lock-n-stitch' method of fixing cast before, it is quite interesting and I understand the principle behind it. stop the crack from spreading, then drill into the crack to add material to harden it up. The '53' block is a crap shoot, there are those that are running over 500hp, towing heavy and constantly and have no problems, but then you have those that are stock, do no towing, no power adders and it cracks. it is also the other way around.

but if you want to see if you may have this 53 block crawl under the engine and look on the front just above the oil pan. there will be two numbers about 2 inches tall that says 53. if it has something else cast into it then you have a different block.

the 53 block cracks because the water jacket on the exhaust side of the block is only 5.5mm thick, it should be 11mm.