Selling my 1997 5 speed which I LOVE! But it's time for a new truck.... Picked up a 2006 with the 6 speed 3:73 4x4 posi plow prep towing etc..

W(hy)TF are the RPM so freaking High! I am thinking it's got 4:10's by mistake. My old truck 2K was 70 MPH... Now I'm at 2250-2300 Rpm or so to get 70 IIRC

I only have 45 minutes behind the wheel.

B 4 I return it and get my $ back I wanted to see if this is correct. Web page shows 10.5 Rear Axel (yet 3.73 axle ratio and a *11.1* Rear Axel are on the window sticker??? WTF?)

This baby screams (RPM) at 80 MPH which is where I USED to drive Now I'm lucky to get 72 at the same RPM.

This STINKS! [:'(]

I feel used dirty and am not a happy camper. My 10 year old truck is faster, has more power (#10 TST) and is MUCH more solid. This new truck is so cheep feeling. (no wheel well liners, Bed has no metal in the front by the cab, sheet metal feels much thiner. .. Shocks bounce ??? They are WAY under dampened!

I hope I did not make a $35K mistake.

Any positive feedback before I put any miles on it would sure make me feel better.

I'm really shocked at this lack of quality. (my power window on the passenger side would not work with the passenger switch (std cab) when I went to pick it up. They took a full day to fix it.).

Now I read here it's a dual mass clutch! So I have to switch THAT out too? Clutch, $600, new final drive gears $2000 ... I am already feeling like I am going to be sick.. This is Sooooo much $ for me. Now I hate this truck.

I did not get an automatic as they would fall apart in the past .. was the 6 speed a mistake due to to low a ratio and a POS Dual mass clutch?

I want my high gearing back!

Any positive feed back would be appreciated. Seriously.... I am thinking of returning it. My 1997 is soooooo much better set up. What were they thinking ... 2300 -2400 RPM is a huge waste of fuel! Who needs any lower gears.. That is what 5th is for 4, th and low range.... Why KILL 6th?

Can I just change 6th gear?

I think I'm going to puke. [&o]

 

nope, you have a AAM 11.5 rear axel packed with 3.73's. the reason for the high RPM's is the G56 has a .79 final drive ratio. in 05 the trusty NV5600 was traded out. the NV5600 has a final drive ratio of .73, so it is lower and can support 4.10's where as the g56 cannot. but if you want lower RPM's you could get a gear venders or U.S. gear overdrive gear set. you would have the high range for pulling, then kick in the unit and drasticaly lower the RPM's.

my truck has the NV5600 and 4.10's, just about the same gearing as you. I normaly drive around 70mph and am able to get 18-20mpg depending. but get some miles on her and the mileage will go up.

the clutch is not what is dual mass. . .it is the flywheel. it is to help reduce drive line vibrations for a 'smoother ride' which I doubt realy helps, but there are companies out that have replacement kits to get rid of the DMF.

the 48RE is a MUCH improved auto tranny and can hold up pretty well even with some performance boxes and no mods. but go above 75 more hp and it will slip. the 48RE has a .69 final gearing.

it's a good truck, but not the road racer we were used to when you got the stick. but for me, from 0-70 I'll keep up or pass anything out on the road, after that it's all them.

 

Drew,

Thanks... This is my 3rd CTD 1st was a 2x4 Radial Pump WOW that was the most powerful of the 3. Then my 1997 with #10, 4" bully Dog etc. 19.9 MPG at 75 with 2 Kayaks on top!

Just filled my 1st tank of fuel and added my Stanidine.... What is the stuff you all here are using... I don;t know what the abbreviations are.

I know all about DMF It;s what is preventing me from getting a VW TDI (I have a 2002 and it's wonderful) the new DMF's are fragging. Can;t hold the torque and the weight of the new Jetta body style. I have an UpSolute chip and get 49 MPG at 75 MPH

I need to get a cap (4-6" over cab height.) and a Plow. Fisher will only let me get the MD 7.5" due to the axle weight ratio. Will try "Snow Way" with a clear plastic 8' or maybe a 8'6" Have to talk to the dealer.

I called Russell Automotive in Manchester NH about options.. Gear Vendor, US gear Splitter etc. The $ is way more than the fuel payback. If I had LOTS of $ I would go with a O/D splitter and air locker in the front. Then smile BIG TIME.

This new motor is nice and quiet. I need to get the "fix" es for the Intake to get the intake noise back.. Being in NH I can toss the cat... is Bully dog still the way to go from the turbo back? I want to be able to drop a baseball through the pipe. Maybe that is bad for low end but it may help with MPG? I read some people are getting worse?

My old truck sounded SOOOOooooooooo sweet. I could hear the turbo through the tail pipe after I shut it down I could hear it spool down ... In tunnels and underpasses it was tit$

the day I go to sell it the front left shock breaks internally 2 months old Trail master SST. Then the shop that put my new oil pan on (old one RUSTED through) tweaked a power steering line... SO I need to fix it .. LOL it probably will be good for another 2-3 years before any repairs LOL....

All new brake lines 4x4 vacuum lines etc... Filler neck replaced and a condenser and AC lines. With Minute mount plow and nice cap I think $12.8K is more than a good price. No rust on the body. All "stealer" maintained. It;s like an old friend. Been all over the country in her. Smoked many a car ... best passing rig I have ever had. LOL a little black smoke but what the heck it pulls like a raped ape. Much more comfortable too. These new seats are lacking too. I wonder if I can swap my old cloth ones... I bet the bolt pattern is different.

The 1997 in green/silver was the best looking Dodge to date IMHO.

The black "sport" is cool but my new black with (plastic "Chrome") Grill is a little plastic like for my taste.

I also had the Camper package on my old truck. It made it corner like crazy. NO body tilt at all! It was like my miata on steroids! Had more power and almost cornered as well. I surprised a many sports cars in the twisties.

I surely am going to miss that truck. I spent years behind the wheel (147K) Loved most every minute. Can't say that for many cars or trucks I have had over the many years.

IF you could point me in the right direction for the fuel additives/mixture and a list of low cost MUST do things to improve sound/power/fun factor Please let me know.

Guess I do have the right rear end. (what is AAM?) My old truck had DANA front and rear.

Hopefully I can find some way to change the G56 gearing and make the 6th an over drive. (.73-.70 final drive ratio) Maybe Ted J. has some ideas.

I would not mind dropping the tranny and paying to fix it. I really do not need the flexibility of a splitter When pulling my boat out of the lake I use 4x4 low range in granny. It gets it up on the road. and it's a small boat. only 15' 50 HP. Plowing 4x4 high range 2nd and reverse is fine. (yes that's gonna be fun with the shift pattern) LOL

Guess I need to just make the best out of it. I appreciate the help. Is there a must do list of mods for the 2006? Anything that will yield any free MPG or power I can drop the cat... but maybe it is not really restrictive so leaving it in for the tree huggars is OK.

Seems like you know what's what. TST is looking for bata testers for the Econo mode. Maybe the $ is worth that.. What is thins about a Bully Dog programmer. Can I do anything good with that w/o the stealer seeing it in the ECU? and then voiding my warranty?

I have not been staying current. When I got my 1997 I got "into it" I have way to much to catch up on. I did call TST and they told me to get the 2006 while I could ... 2007 and on would be a dog. Also, the Common rail was the way to go. Soooo THAT's why I am selling the 1997 and getting the 2006. I feel it's my last chance to have a real FUN truck. I think with some $ I may be able to make it as good or better than my 97. Hopefully not all that much $! Clutch and flywheel... Computer.... exhaust. 6th gear change. (hopefully)

I want 1950 RPM at 75 MPH 330 HP 700 torque, 3K RPM AND 20 MPG at 75 ... Not asking much LOL.

Let's see what we can all come up with. If I can get it worked out I'm calling her my Black beauty... If not it;s going to be my Black Eye. LMAO.

Thanks for the info.... John

 

most here use a mix of Power Service Diesel kleen and Marvels mystery oil, been shorn to have good results, 16oz PS and 8oz MMO will keep the pump and injectors happy, even though they dont truly need it, the mileage gain I get pays for the mix and then some.

in 03 when the 3rd gens were introduced Dana was droped in favor for AAM (American Axel Manufacturing) Chevy uses essentialy the same axel in their trucks. the axels have proven to be pretty good asside from the ball joints going out like mad from them being non-greasable, as well as the u-joints.

to tell you the truith, the stock 4 inch exhaust can support around 600hp without any problems, over 650 and I would say go for the 5 inch. but kill the kitty and get a different muffler and your good for the exhaust.

just start reading some of the old threads and read up on the HPCR(high pressure common rail) engines. you'll be amazed how easy it is to get power out of these guys.