I got a gallon of PS (14.95) and 2 bottles of MMO (4.50 a pc).

I have a half a tank right now (with 299 mile on the trip. SWEET!)
On my next fill up I will mix the special sauce and see what happens.

16oz PS and 8 oz MMO.

Are those good prices?

 

that looks about right.

the first thing you will notice is a smoother running and idling engine. you will also notice a slight increase in throttle responce, and fuel mileage will also increase in most cases.

now while I didnt realy get much from the butt dyno, my wallet certianly felt heavier

 

these days the thicker wallet means a lot more than a dyno reading.

I picked the stuff up at a local Napa.

Im just curious on how many miles I'll get out of this tank. It will be damn close to 400 miles if not over.

Than Id like to compare it to the miles I get while using your mix.

Im pretty sure I have a 38 gallon tank so I'll do the math when I get her empty.

 

You should check out Wall Mart price for PSD & MMO as it's around $12.95 for PSD and MMO is around $11.89. The prices at the Napa store are around 2-3 dollars higher then Wally World. Guess I'll see if the prices are the same latter this week and that they have not raise the price to make up for lost sales from when they had pulled it from stock over the ULSD Bull.

Now if I could just get my local Farm Supply store to carry the gray bottle of PSD I would save and extra 2.00 on each 96oz bottle, but no such luck

 

2/3500's both get the 35 gallon tank, however with a vent mod that can be pushed to 40

on my truck my first trip to Little Rock Ar, I got 575 miles before I filled up again, and I had the fuel showing in the filler neck. I was down to fumes when I filled up again, but with a truck that had under 10K NV5600 and 4.10's (70mph=2300rpm) that was pretty good if you ask me. this was before I started useing PS+MMO. the next month I was on my way to Little Rock again but this time useing PS+MMO and the same 575 miles the light never came on from when I left my house near ATL all the way to a fuel stop just outside LR.

if I had the auto and 3.73's I could have gone farther since the engine rpm's arent turning as high.

 

what is the vent mod?

 

theres a guy on TDR that sells a kit with some fittings and a 3/4 ID tube that drills into the top of the back hump of the fuel tank. this area is for expansion of the fuel, but since diesel doesnt expand like gasoline this space could be used to store extra fuel.

also it helps keep foaming down when filling up. the only down side on the instalation of this mod is either the bed has to come off or the tank has to be about empty in order to drop it.


found it

 

wow, I did not know there was that much extra space available in the tank... wouldnt it make senes to upgrade to the larger tank as well? usually for me it's 2 clicks and i'm outa there. rarely takes more than 31~32 gal of fuel.

I ran across someone who said that with his 95 gal aux tank he had a 2300 mile range before fillups... this would be nice but not at the expence of loss of room in the bed. plus the question comes to mind as to how well will the diesel hold up over the course of a month?

 

that hump in the back of the tank is larger than you think.

Diesel should hold up pretty well for a month, what I would be concerned with is over a longer period diesel will actualy begin to grow alge. the only time I have ever seen this was on stand-by generators and pumps that were rarely used throughout the year with a 100 gallon tank sitting next to it. there are addatives that can be used to keep this alge from growing.

 

Experimenting with this additive mix is 'ideal' for a two truck test
which is much more dependable that checking tank to tank:
------
Got a buddy with a Dodge Ram with the overhead trip computer?
(His truck does not have to be exactly the same as yours, but the closer the
better)

Since you are making a modification with hopes of getting better MPG
why not do a "before & after" test?

Do a 'before test' with both trucks
* you and your buddy fill up at the same gas station and put the same air
pressure in all tires
* Pick a highway without too much traffic and hopefully where the wind is a
head wind or tailwind (side winds mess things up)
* Your Ram and your buddy's Ram follow one another staying at least 6 vehicle
lengths apart
* talk to one another with cell phones or walkie talkies
* drive at the same speed
* reset the overhead computers at the same time
* drive at least long enough to burn up 2.5 gallons
* exit highway, turn around, and continue the test in opposite direction
(this is to partially cancel out wind direction)
* write down average MPG on overhead computers at end of run
and compare this to the gas pump numbers and odometer mileages.

After doing your modification
redo the test the same way as above,
hopefully at a time of day where the temperature is about the same as the
'before' test and the wind speed & direction is not a problem - which you
can check here:

http://tribunewx.wunderground.com/US...WindSpeed.html

Note that in the above weblink you can type in your zip code and get exact
wind, temperature and other weather data.

The value of your buddy's pickup being along on is that on this 'after' test
if his MPG is greatly different you should suspect something has gone wrong
like strong cross winds, a change in temperature, tire air pressure, etc.

If you want to test two trucks against one another that are already modified
like comparing 3.55 differential gears to 4.56 gears
or an underdrive pulley, syn versus dino oil, tire air pressure, thermostat,
SuperChips, etc......
you can modify this test slightly for even better accuracy.
Swap two tires from one truck to the other.
Now both trucks have the same 'average' tires.
Weigh the trucks and add weight to the lighter truck to make them even.

If you really want 'gold standard' accuracy that you can trust
(or if you are measuring a small effect like a thermostat)
then swap the mod over to your buddy's truck
and do the tests another time with your truck as the 'control'.

If you are presently thinking:

"Wow, who would be that careful for a lousy MPG test?"

then just think about a dragstrip
which will have:
carefully measured distances,
highly accurate timing trigger by light beams,
know its altitude,
have a weather station,
and have a computer program to 'adjust' results for weather conditions.

All this type of MPG test is doing is applying the same standards to MPG
that is expected when someone brags about their vehicle's ET or MPH in the
quartermile.

By doing a test this way you are doing a simplified version of a
SAE/TMC Type IV fuel economy test RP 1109.

Here the SAE stands for Society of Automotive Engineers and
TMC stands for Truck Maintenance Council which is a group
of professional 18 wheel truckers who have banded together to share
information. RP stands for recommended procedure.

Credit for inventing a 'reliable' MPG test like this goes to many, but
especially Claude Travis, known to his peers at TMC as "Mr. MPG,"
who has spent 37 years managing the operation, maintenance and testing
of heavy-duty, on-highway vehicles. Highly regarded for his exhaustive
research in the field of heavy-vehicle fuel-economy, he is principal of
Claude Travis and Associates, Fleet Consultants, Grand Rapids, Mich.

In the actual SAE/TMC type IV test they also take the temperature of the
fuel both before and after, because a gallon of fuel coming out of an
underground tank at 57 degrees F will expand/contract several percent
as it approaches that day's air temperature.

If you are interested in learning more about this
there are also SAE/TMC tests I, II and III
and no doubt someday an even better test V will be invented.