The valve you are talking about is a.k.a the orifice tube (it reduced the line pressure from the condensor to the evaperator), correct?
And, I've heard about the "you gotta replace the accumulator when replacing the compressor" rule.

 

and don't forget the extra or special tools one may have to buy to do the task!
go new!

 

Yeah I hate to say it but usually to get a compressor warrantied you have to replace the filter/dryer and the orifice tube. It gets expensive but if your compressor is screwed then you get to buy a new one anyway and because they don't sell them withouth the clutch you wasted the time and money you spent replacing it in the first place. Now its a question of what your A/C is really worth to you..............

 

Well, thanks for all of the advice and I was concerned about getting enough room to actually pull the clutch without damaging anything else. I did find that AutoZone has all of the special tools needed to pull the clutch - but again - if something else is wrong, then I have spent the time and effort uselessly.

My plan is to do this.

1. check the R134 pressure. If anyone knows what this should be without the compressor running, it would be helpful. I know that I really can't finalize it until the compressor is running.

2. pull the serpentine belt and see how the compressor turns by hand.

3. loosen up the compressor to see how much room I can actually get.

Then make a decision about simply replacing the compressor. I did check that I would have to replace the dryer and orifice to keep the warrantee on the new compressor. Then it means taking it to someone who can evacuate the entire system and refill it. All in all, not cheap, but living in Texas means that A/C is important. The warrantee did not seem to depend on replacing the accumulator - but do you think that is vital?

I hope to try this during this weekend, but don't know if I will get to it. I will keep posting my results periodically so others can learn. That is the real value of these forums - and all of the help and advice we get from each other. The real kicker is that this is actually my son's truck and he is deployed at the moment. Of course it failed on my watch - so since I feel he is doing his part for our country, I should take care of him.

Thanks for all of the advice and I would appreciate any procedure about replacing all of these parts if I have to.

Rodney

 

Something just came to mind too. Your truck is fairly new. I would disconnect the wiring from the clutch itself before removing the compressor. Now replace the blown fuse and turn the a/c system on. See if the fuse blows while the compressor is unhooked. This is just a way to make sure that the wiring itself is not at fault. I have seen some Rams where wires chafe thru due to the trucks vibrations. You're probaby right about the clutch magnet being burned out but just double check so you know the wiring is good.

Hope that wasn't too confusing....lol. And sorry it came to me this late......lol.


Good luck with that.

 

The valve you are talking about is a.k.a the orifice tube (it reduced the line pressure from the condensor to the evaperator), correct?
He said "orifice"...........uh huh huh huh.....

 

uuuhhhh. .. huhhh hu huhuhuh

 

LMAO.................LOL


that's funny.lol

 

Good idea to unplug coil to see if fuse blows to make sure wiring is good. My brother has an 01 and 215k miles, and has changed the clutch twice. His compressor is working ok. I would only consider changing the compressor if I was 100% sure it had to be done.
Kevin

 

One of the first things I did was to unplug the wire to see if the short still exists. It did. I then put in a new fuse and turned the A/C off. Started the engine and checked the fuse. It was still good. Then I turned on the A/C and looked at the compressor. It was not turning and the fuse was blown.

I guess it is not my day! That is all I have been able to do thus far. I hope that I will be able to get to it this week and post my progress. Again, thanks for the suggestions.

Rodney