Tailgate Lock...
#11
RE: Tailgate Lock...
I was looking at those power gate locks but decided against it for some reasons.
1. if the motor dies (and I have seen plenty of actuators die befor) now you have to tear it apart to fix.
2. if something happens to the wireing it would be a pain to tix.
3. I am getting the bed sprayed with a linear, and I do not want to have to deal with cutting that **** off to get to the access panel to make a repair.
4. If that actuator jams up and you can not get your tail gate open u might be in a bind.
just my 2 or well.. 4 cents.
1. if the motor dies (and I have seen plenty of actuators die befor) now you have to tear it apart to fix.
2. if something happens to the wireing it would be a pain to tix.
3. I am getting the bed sprayed with a linear, and I do not want to have to deal with cutting that **** off to get to the access panel to make a repair.
4. If that actuator jams up and you can not get your tail gate open u might be in a bind.
just my 2 or well.. 4 cents.
#12
#13
RE: Tailgate Lock...
ORIGINAL: Flent
I was looking at those power gate locks but decided against it for some reasons.
3. I am getting the bed sprayed with a linear, and I do not want to have to deal with cutting that **** off to get to the access panel to make a repair.
just my 2 or well.. 4 cents.
I was looking at those power gate locks but decided against it for some reasons.
3. I am getting the bed sprayed with a linear, and I do not want to have to deal with cutting that **** off to get to the access panel to make a repair.
just my 2 or well.. 4 cents.
Of course, I would definitely ask them if they do this before they spray.
#14
RE: Tailgate Lock...
Donnie - yes, there is a lock that fits in the stock housing that will allow you to retain your chrome accent - it's made by Pop-n-lock, and should be available at Pep Boys, and most accessory shops. It is attached via pins that snap in behind the handle, and an adhesive strip. For good measure, I also pulled the access panel off the tailgate, and drilled a hole through the Pop-n-lock lock and the handle housing so I could put a bolt and a nut on it to make sure it stayed put. And if you don't want to have to deal with a lock - on my last CTD I welded a washer across the slotted piece on the end of the support cable so it wouldn't be able to be slid off the post - but then you can't take the gate off yourself without breaking the weld should you ever need to. (I now live in a better area so am less worried - talk about jinxing myself, eh?)