I'm looking to buy a fifth wheel trailer rated a 17000lbs to tow behind my dodge ram 2500 and I know my truck isn't rated for it. I see people towing the same trailer all the time with my truck and was wondering if there's any upgrades to make it legal?? If there is, what do I need to do to get it to the 17000lb rating? Also, any recommendations on the best slider hitch to use? Any help would be appretiated, I'm new to the fifth wheel world and there doesn't seem to be too many postings about towing!!

 

I think the max tow rating is around 12k-13k pounds. That is for manual tranny and 4x4. Automatic is gonna be less. I've got a 10k horse trailer (empty) and I put on 3 extra leaf springs. That helped out a lot. You could also consider adding air bags. A lot of the people I travel with and have similar trailers have installed air bags and they seem to like them. An exhaust brake also wouldn't be a bad idea. You'll burn up your rotors and pads really quick even if the trailer has brakes.

I'd be carefull on the tounge weight because you could go through rear tires on your truck really quick if your not careful. I'd certainly buy the absolute best tire I could find. I don't know, but 17k might be just a little too much for a 2500. The engine and tranny can handle it, but the suspension, brakes and rear tires might not.

 

I pull a 4 horse g-neck with a living quarters pushing 18000 with my 2500 with no problem

 

I have to agree with CowboyBob. The only real difference between the 2500 and 3500 are the rear leaf spring packs and the fact that the 3500 comes in both single and dually. You get the added capacity with the dually because you have enough tires to support the weight. Your truck will pull what you want, but you should definately check the tongue weight and buy some good "E" rated tires.

 

Being an RV'er for a long time, I can tell you that although the truck can pull more than it's rated capacity without snapping (like all such capacities, it doesn't fail at one pound over), you need to keep in mind that things like the brakes, front suspension, bearings, tranny, etc. are weak points when overstressed and will wear faster and fail earlier. I've known more than one person who pulled a trailer higher than the capacity until they got tired of things breaking and moved up to something that was rated to pull more than what they had, not less... There's a reason it's rated what it is...

 

What your going to find is that your GVWR and rear axle weight limits will be exceeded. Your GVWR is probsably in the neighborhood of 8800 #. Add the weight of your truck, the ppin weight of the trailer (oh and by the way, don't go by what the manufacturer says, you need to weight it to be sure), the weight of the hitch, you, fuel load, passengers, propane, and anything your carrying in the bed.

There isn't anything you can do to "legally change the weight settings. So while you can do things such as airbags, heftier brakes, E range tires, etc. to physically help carry the load, the legal setting are what they are from the factory.

As far as hitches, I use a Reese 16k Signature series slider with the removable rails. If you have a short beg, you'll need the slider eventually. 99% of the time I don't need to use the slider but I've found that backing my 5th wheel downhill into a camp site changes the altitude of the nose of my rv such that it will hit the cab if the slider isn't used.

I have a friend who bought the cam-type slider that doesn't require you to get out and engage the slider. He really likes it, but I can't recall the brand at the moment.

A lot of people will say the 2500 wil handle it, but again not legally. If you get into an accident that's your fault, you could be in some serious liability trouble if your "legally" overweight.

If you really want a 5th wheel of that size, you should consider upgrading to a 3500.

Regards, Glenn

 

That about sums it all up right there doesn't it.

Nice job Glenn ...

 

The 17K you see is the GVW of the trailer, not its actual weight. AND that trailer is not putting that much weight on your rear axle.
Your possible GVW of the truck is 8800 to 9000. That means that everything you have on or in or connected to the truck cannot make the front and rear axle totatl 8800 lbs. your truck from the factory probably wights about 6000 - 6500lbs. Hook up to the trailer and goto the truckstop and weight it in this fashion...fill up your tank with fuel then go on the scale and weigh the combination (truck and trailer) them go and park your trailer, unhook and weight the truck by itself. your weight tickets will tell you exactly how much weight that the tongue of the trailer is putting on the rear axle. I transport motorcycles on goosenecks and have to deal with DOT everyday.

 

Sorry, but you kindsa lost me here.

If you weigh your truck, and then weigh your trailer on your truck, and then weigh your truck again, how is that telling you how much weight is added to your axle? All your doing is weighing each piece seperately.

I'm thinking ( guessing ) that pulling JUST your truck onto the scales with the trailer hooked to it would give you the answer that you're looking for. ONLY the truck would be on the scales with the added weight of the trailer that is still sitting on the pavement NOT on the scales.

Make sense ???

 

I have a 37' fifth wheel which has a GVWR of 13,500 #. I am looking to get a newer truck. I currently own a 1999Ford F350 Dually Diesel 4X4 with an automatic tasmission ( 7.3L) and 108,000 miles on it. I have been looking at both the Dodge Megacab 2500 and 3500 and notice that the tow capacities are 12450 and 15450 respectively with the 4:10 gear ratio. I have been told that I could buy the 2500 and put air shocks on the rear for the extra towing capacity and get the same as the 3500, as the rear suspension is the only difference. I question this and need help solving this delima. I will go with the PullRite 16KSuperglide either way so I don't have to worry about making sharp turns . This hitch will automatically slide the hitch head back proportionally so there is no interference with the cab. One other question if where to install the hitch in relation to the rear axle. Some say to have the hitch directly above the rear axle, and others say to install it 2" behind the axle to improve handling, because of the weight of the diesel motor in front. Any input on either of these two questions from those who have experienced these senerios would be appreciated.